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I was wondering if I could put some minwax wipe on poly over a watco danish oil finish? (or it might be waterlox tung oil) I was thinking it would work but wasn't sure of the results, and I don't have a good spot to test it out on. Anyone try this one?
Thanks
James
Sure but why?
Unless it is the floor you don't really gain anything with polyurethane. Danish oil and waterlox are tung oil based varnishes and are plenty by themselves. If fact many, myself included much prefer them to any poly.
Joe
Yes - I have done this - mostly cause I wanted the coloration of the oil on the wood, and then the durability of the poly. This thread shows it on cedar, mahogany, and cocobolo. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hlight=jewelry
One note, let the Danish Oil dry completely, prior to putting the poly on!
I use 6 coats of Arm-R-Seal over the top of Watco natural danish oil for the finish on the humidors I am building.Quote:
Originally Posted by James K Peterson
You can put any type of finish over Watco Danish Oil as long as it is fully dry. Give it 5-7 days to be sure.
Let me clear up a point though, Waterlox is a brand of varnish. It's not "tung oil" or even a type of tung oil. It's just a plain ole varnish made with phenolic resin and tung oil. Once the two are mixed and heated, they combine into a new compound called varnish.
To add to what Howie says, it does make quite a difference whether the initial finishing material was Watco or Waterlox. Watco, as an oil/varnish blend offers only a moderate degree of protection and must not be allowed to build a film on the surface. If you want a film you must let it dry and then apply a varnish. Waterlox would be an excellent choice and would be less sensitive to having the Watco fully cured.
If the initial material is Waterlox, then you can continue with that if the initial coating doesn't seem to be thick enough.
Joe, are you saying you just use the Danish oil with nothing over that?
Are you sanding or ? the finish after the Danish oil dries?
Also looking at a Watco Natural Danish oil as a base and considering poly over that, little vague on the steps if I do that.
This is for a TV stand if it makes any difference.
James, what are you putting this on if I may ask?
Al
I don't use "Danish oil" at all.
I would just use a wiping varnish like Waterlox original. If I needed oil to enhance grain (normally under water base spray finishes) I would use BLO/shellac then top coat.
Watco danish oil is a varnish blend and will do the same thing as BLO but with a little added protection. For something that won't get a lot of handling just Watco danish oil would be fine.
I personally would spray USL but for non sprayed projects I stick with waterlox original sealer. I try to keep it simple so I don't get confused.
Joe
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I don't use "Danish oil" at all.
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Your original statement included waterlox and dainish oil both, so I figured you used both.
Both Beasty and I like the Nat watco stuff, really brings out the grain and doesn't darken the wood as much as other stuff I've tried.
Also trying to keep the finishes down to a mimimun till I get a bit better at it.
Plus it doesn't smell like tung oil and that's a biggie for the wife..:)
Al
I'm completing my first "real" woodworking project, a reproduction of an antique game table in maple. I've put two coats of Watco Danish Oil on the legs, apron and top. I like the look as is but I need to put a protective coat on the top, probably wipe-on poly, since there will be drinks placed on the table. I have two questions:
1) Does it make sense for me to just use the poly on the table top or should I do the legs/apron as well?
2) The table top folds in half and the understructure closes up sort of like a drawer so that when closed the table is half sized. With the two halves of the top laying on top of one another, is there a danger of the finish causing them to stick together? If yes, is there anything I can do about it?
I've attached an image of the table on which I'm basing my reproduction.
Thanks in advance.
Art
Attachment 420908
I made this breakfast table for the old man. It is red oak with a filler, Watco medium walnut as the stain, a coat of shellac sanding sealer, and then a couple coats of brush on poly. That is kind of my standard finish for something like that. I love Wacto as a stain; hate it as a finish, particularly for a table that will get frequently spilled on and wiped with a dishrag. Originally they wanted formica, but we went with real wood instead to match the desk I made them.
I would poly the top and the legs the same, to keep the sheen and the look consistent across the whole table. As far as the leafs touching, after poly dries, new poly doesn't want to stick to it without the previous coat being roughed up, so you should be fine with two dried polyed pieces touching. Make sure you use a real drying poly, not some goofy oil-poly blend that never dries. Myself I like to put a coat of dewaxed shellac between the stain and the poly. Shellac tends to make everything compatible with everything else (if it is dewaxed). Plus I like the slight amber tint it gives.
Attachment 421008Attachment 421009