Printable View
I'm hooked on the scary sharp method using 3M's micro abrasives for the secondary bevel. However the secondary is getting too wide so I wanna work on the primary bevel to reduce honing. I was on Klingspor looking at 10m rolls and there are several choices in terms of type. What's the best type to use and in what grits? Also feel free to add favorite sources if any.
The 120 grit will work fine...I use that sometimes on a granite plate with my eclipse honing jig. Looks like Klingspor has a good price on the rolls of 120 grit. I purchased mine through Amazon, a 3M product...same as LN carries...still more money than what you are looking at.
Jim
Hi Jim, both Jim!
Because I sometimes sharpen at the kitchen where I have not use even hand cranked grinder, I use scary sharp for primary bevel and for honing too. 3M WetOrDry is my choice. 100 & 150 grits for primary bevel forming or just blade forming, and after for sharpening 3M too. Probably it is more expensive than others sandpapers, but 3M lasts longer than other brands.
But it's work for me.
Frankly spoken when I can't find out 3M of high grits (2000 and higher) I use Mirca.
PSA roll at 80 grit. You could go more coarse, but I don't think you can generate the kind of speed that it would take to make it useful (as in, if you just used a lot of pressure, you'd crush the aluminum oxide).Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Kirkpatrick
Make sure it's aluminum oxide of some type (mirka gold, norton 3x, whatever). A nice long run of it will work well with an eclipse guide or freehand. Reason I'd start with 80 is when you use sandpaper by hand with any pressure, you crush it to a finer grit pretty quickly. And the reason for aluminum oxide is it's fairly durable under pressure, and the expensive stuff, like blue zirconia and other stuff like that is durable on a belt at speed but not under hand pressure, at least nowhere close to justify it's price.
I typically don't like to use less than 220 on my bevels, even if it is a little more work. I find that 120 leaves scratches that are about as deep as what I was trying to get rid of in the first place, thus the 220. However, it may be just what you want.
My source has been these folks:
http://www.supergrit.com/products/pr...sleeve-psa.asp
The 80 grit does cut fast if you need to rehabilitate a chisel. It is inexpensive enough a few grits can be bought.
My surface is a four foot piece of granite bought from a monument maker (tombstone carver). There is likely one in your area where you can get a piece inexpensively.
jtk
Concur that p80 grit is good for major bevel maintenance. The challenge is finding something that lasts long enough to be useful.Quote:
Originally Posted by David Weaver
I find that getting a long stroke is half the battle to getting the major bevel reconstruction done in a reasonable length if time. I got a long hunk of faux-marble countertop backsplash at the local home store; it is ~3 feet long and five or six inches wide. Works great.
I started using belt-sander belts that I got cheap at HF; I'd cut them at the seam and glue them down. The rig worked fine except the cheap HF abrasives broke down after just a few passes. And even cheap HF belts are not inexpensive when you go through a lot of them.
Then I saw the 3M Stikit Gold abrasive rolls that LN was using at their handtool events and bought a roll; WORKS GREAT! The grit lasts a long time, is quite uniform, and combined with the long strokes gets it done fast.
The stuff is expensive from LN ($60/roll) but can be had elsewhere for a more-affordable $45ish. P/N for P80 grit is 02599.
Other grits are available but I don't know the P/N; google is your friend for finding sources or pay a little more from LN.
The LN youtube videos say that you should use the finer grits (180, 220) from time to time, even before you get to your final bevel. They suggest that the process will go faster if you do that. I've tried it that way a couple times and it seems to work; it is as if by flattening out the surface a bit with the finer grits the course paper can get a better bite when you go back to it.
So this is yet another example of how using the proper tool (in this case high-quality sandpaper) is faster and cheaper in the long run that "getting by" with a half-as**d improvised rig (HF belts).
My $0.02
Tom in SoCal