Handcut dovetails

I have been trying to cut dovetails for over a year, off and on, but ran across Rob Cosman's youtube video on a new approach to marking and cutting them. I was surprised at how much better I was able to cut them. I am not "there" yet, but I believe that with just a little more practice, I can make the drawers for the corner cabinet in progress. I don't want to ruin the mahogany if possible. I also made a marking jig that has helped out some too. Anybody experts on doing this. I am open to any and all suggestions.

Old Woodie

I'm not familiar with the video you referenced - but I will say this: Once you've found a method that works for you - use it, practice it, practice it, practice it. One of my instructors at a year long furniture design/making course I attended used to make us do a dovetail joint every day when we walked into his shop - the constant repetition eventually led to "muscle memory", and by the end of the year we all could produce dovetails very quickly.

Don't get hung up on "tails first/pins first" - whatever works for you is the correct way, it's usually a function of which way you were first taught. Whatever method you're using, do a joint every day you walk into your shop (just use scraps), and you'll quickly gain proficiency.

This is posted in an unusual place in the creek.

Neanderthal Haven is where I would expect to see it.

However, I recommend Rob Cosman's video, "Handcut Dovetails". It is the best I've seen.

You can buy the video online, it's not an youtube video.

You're referring to using the saw to mark, right? I think it s neat idea.

I think just using a knife instead of a pencil will greatly increase your accuracy.

I'm also a fan tails first because you can cut a number of sides at once.
Also, I'm a fan of the shallow rabbet on the tail to help with pin marking and hide any minor flaws on the inside corners.

Once I've got dt's figured out, I don't like to change anything, so whatever works for you be consisitent and you'll get consistent results.

My journey to better dovetails involved a lot of reading and watching. There are little gems in almost every video or written description of dovetail making.

One of the most important "gems" was from reading and listening to Frank Klauz and the important part of "sawing to the line." It finally came to me that this means not sawing through the line.

As Roy mentioned, it doesn't matter whether you are a pins first or a tails first creator of dovetails.

For me the important part of which ever is cut first is to make sure it is square where it needs to be square. Make sure the first half is correct before using it to mark the second half. Then remember, no matter what is used to mark from the first half, the line is outside of the waste area or at the edge of the waste at best. Sawing to the line means the line stays. Then any paring to fit should only be done to the second half of the joint. (that is my opinion) After all, if the first half of the joint was "adjusted" properly before marking the second half, it shouldn't need any adjustment.

Finally, my joints improved by looking at them for the same mistakes being repeated and then figuring how to eliminate those mistakes.

Good luck,

jtk

I would think tails first because i would think its easier to cut plumb than to line a saw to the slope of the tails. Cut the tails first and you do not have to get the slope perfect. I think Rob was probably where i heard that. Klausz does pins first for ease of marking the second board. Maybe you can develop a memory for slope like you can for plumb.

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Originally Posted by Noah Wagener

I would think tails first because i would think its easier to cut plumb than to line a saw to the slope of the tails. Cut the tails first and you do not have to get the slope perfect. I think Rob was probably where i heard that. Klausz does pins first for ease of marking the second board. Maybe you can develop a memory for slope like you can for plumb.

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If I remember correctly, Rob has you angle the board so that the angled cuts are vertical. Something about then you only need to learn how to cut one way.

Off hand, I would say that the most important tasks to learn if you want to cut good hand cut dovetails are:

1. Cut exactly where you want. More specifically, be able to cut to the line on the left, right, or split the line. Also you need to be able to do this with a perpendicular cut. This is the single hardest task I think. So, if you want to create hand-cut dovetails, then you should mark out a bunch of lines on a board and cut a bunch to the left of the line, a bunch to the right of the line, and a bunch splitting the line. If you mark the board on both sides you can then see how well you cut on both sides. I maintain that if you follow the lines on both sides of the board (and the lines are properly placed), then your cut is perpendicular as needed. Admittedly, when you cut the tails you won't be cutting perpendicular, so I will just do some hand waving here!
2. Figure out how to properly mark your line when you transfer from what ever you cut first. I cut tails first, so I need to hold the board steady when I mark the pins. If your tails are all perfect, then you have the issue of simply marking where the cut should go.
3. Cutting out that marked portion requires that you understand exactly where you need to cut so that (in my case) those pins will push in between the tails. Assuming that I marked with a knife, then I must cut right along that knife line. If I used a pencil, well, I should not remove any of that pencil line, because that pencil line is on the part of the pin that needs to fill the hole between the tails. I think that I have seen this demonstrated by placing painter's tape along the edge and then cutting out the portions of the tape to remove.

Happy cutting!

Do tails first, and cut the tails on your bandsaw. Transfer to the pin board with a knife and saw to the line. I have a tutorial here, although I use a hand saw to cut the tails.

Half blind dovetails are a bit easier and I have a tutorial on that here.

Mike

Mark the waste (just use a pencil and scribble between your layout lines) and cut on the waste side! When I was first starting I must have got it backwards about a hundred times. I still mark the waste when I'm doing many dovetails along a board (some of my chests have 12 or more dovetails per corner) - it's just too easy to get sailing along and forget what you're supposed to be doing!

Mike

Great tutorial -- especially if one takes the time to read the hard-won knowledge in the captions.
A beginner could do a lot worse than to start there.

Mike,
You do nice work. !!

This is for a tails first guy! The only critical cut on the tails is the perpendicular cut. Must be 90 degrees. Gang up your sides when you cut these. The most difficulty comes in marking the pins from the tails. Suggestion- Create a knife wall on the end grain. It will line up your saw and let you concentrate on the vertical cut only since the saw will readily follow the knife wall. Would suggest a sharp knife as opposed to the sloppiness of a pencil for marking. Check our Fine Woodworking for tons of videos on this subject. Good luck!

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Originally Posted by Stanley Powers

This is for a tails first guy! The only critical cut on the tails is the perpendicular cut. Must be 90 degrees. Gang up your sides when you cut these. The most difficulty comes in marking the pins from the tails. Suggestion- Create a knife wall on the end grain. It will line up your saw and let you concentrate on the vertical cut only since the saw will readily follow the knife wall. Would suggest a sharp knife as opposed to the sloppiness of a pencil for marking. Check our Fine Woodworking for tons of videos on this subject. Good luck!

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Amen! For me, this makes it easier to cut perpendicular.