Cross Cutting Plywood w/ Skill Saw

Getting ready to build a panel bed for a granddaughter. My normal practice is to cut plywood oversize with my skill saw and use my table saw to clean up the cuts. However, my son has requested drawers for storage and I'd like to cut the drawers out of the plywood bed sides thereby retaining the grain pattern. In addition, The bed sides are long enough that handling them for cross cuts on my table saw is difficult.

Rip cuts with a skill saw aren't that big a problem. Cross cuts are another case. In the past I've tried pre-cutting the plywood with a utility knife with varying results. Without and sometimes with pre-cutting, my skill saw badly splinters the veneer. I've tried cutting the plywood from the back but still get poor results.

Even though I intend to edge band the exposed birch plywood edges with birch, I'd like to minimize any splintering. I've bought a new plywood blade for the saw and am wondering if anyone has ever attached a piece of hardboard to the bottom of their skill saw to act like a 0 clearance insert? The only drawback to that is, you won't be able to see the cut. I might be able to locate a piece of Plexiglas to substitute for the hardboard.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Clamp a streight edge to the plywood and you don't
need to follow a line. I also precut with a razor knife.
My blade of choice is a good carbide blade and haven't
tried this with a plywood blade.

Larry

Richard, the ZCI is exactly what you need. My milwaukee has a little clear piece that slips in right at the blade to act as a ZCI - it works like a champ. Even though it's clear, it does obstruct the view slightly. There is a small point at the front the insert to help guide the cut.

The piece of wood was cut at one end with it in and the other without it.

Be well,

Doc

Just make yourself a sawboard out of 1/4 or 1/2" ply. Attach a "fence", I use a 3/4" strip of MDF, something straight and flat, to the top of a 1/4 - 1/2", piece of plywood, you can even go 3/4" if your saw has enough depth of cut to still cut the workpiece (the saw will ride on top of this piece). Distance the "fence" from the edge slightly farther than the distance between the blade and base edge of your skillsaw, then cut it indexing your saw on the fence. Since you'll be xcutting, make the sawboard 4' long and keep it on the workpiece side of the cut, it will act as a zctp on that side of the cut, you can also put the edge right up to the cutline, which is convenient. Also, cut your workpiece in two passes, make the first a very light scoring pass about 1/16" deep, then make the through cut. Use a good blade with lotsa teeth, the DeWalt HSS ply/laminate blade works very sell for me, $8 at HD.

I've cut a number of 3/4" birch/maple panels this way and the cuts are very smooth, almost no tearout.

Almost forgot, leave a little space on the opposite side of the "fence" for a clamping surface. If you're using a sidewinder circ saw, the motor will ride over the fence and clamps can get in the way of your cut..

the masking tape trick yet? I used to use it before getting a saw guide for end cuts. Put the good side down, mark on the less desirable side, and run masking tape down over your cut line. It will do in a pinch, unless BOTH sides are going to show.
Steve

I also use the masking tape trick when cross cutting plywood. I put a strip on both faces of the plywood on the cut line.

I just know that someone was waiting for me to put on my Eurekazone cape for this thread... ;)

Well OK, ... for about 25 dollars, you can eliminate the whole problem permanently and totally. Just get the Eurekazone Smart Base (www.eurekazone.com).

If you really want to treat yourself, get the whole package but the Smartbase alone will eliminate tearout problem. For photos I took of cuts on plywood using the SmartBase, usine a cheap OEM blade, you can refer to an earlier thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...9&page=8&pp=15

Paul (Not a EurekaZone employee... just a fan)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Paul Berendsohn

I just know that someone was waiting for me to put on my Eurekazone cape for this thread... ;)

Well OK, ... for about 25 dollars, you can eliminate the whole problem permanently and totally. Just get the Eurekazone Smart Base (www.eurekazone.com).

If you really want to treat yourself, get the whole package but the Smartbase alone will eliminate tearout problem. For photos I took of cuts on plywood using the SmartBase, usine a cheap OEM blade, you can refer to an earlier thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...9&page=8&pp=15

Paul (Not a EurekaZone employee... just a fan)

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Hmmm. Yea Paul. I got one too. But didn't mention it as I didn't want to get another Hot , Flaming, Smoking thread going about E vs F again.:eek:

Steve:)

LOL... Hey, I didn't mention any other brand (cue up Darth Vader music) ... I'm just a humble fan of Eurekazone, genuinely!

BTW, someone PM'ed me for help navigating the Eurekazone site, the URL for the SmartBase specifically is:

http://www.eurekazone.com/products/smartbase.html

I've used sawboards, straightedges, new 60 tooth blade, masking tape and a panel sled (if pieces are less then 26") w varying success . You're on the right track!1and each one helps. My best results are the new blade and a sled

Yeah, right Steve! I noticed that little "before getting a saw guide" thrown in there. You can fool some of the people all of the time and all of the people some of the time, but you can almost always fool me! You just got caught that time. :D

Hey! I learned a lot from those HOT, FLAMING, SMOKING threads! ;)

David

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Originally Posted by Steve Clardy

Hmmm. Yea Paul. I got one too. But didn't mention it as I didn't want to get another Hot , Flaming, Smoking thread going about E vs F again.:eek:

Steve:)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by David Rose

Yeah, right Steve! I noticed that little "before getting a saw guide" thrown in there. You can fool some of the people all of the time and all of the people some of the time, but you can almost always fool me! You just got caught that time. :D

Hey! I learned a lot from those HOT, FLAMING, SMOKING threads! ;)

David

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Hey Hey Hey:eek: Just what are you doing up at 12:28 AM??:eek:
Trying to catch me or what?:eek: Can't sleep??

BTW. Haven't heard any banging around south of here for a while. You doing any projects or just slouching down there?:confused:

Steve:)

Aw! Just still having sleeping problems, Steve. But I did catch you! :D

I've been working some wood but our "real" shop is pretty busy now with hunting seasons starting.

Have you ever chiseled out the handwork for tombstone panels? It's not hard, but as many times as I've suggested to folks to "practice finishes on scrap to not scrap a project"... Yeah, I didn't want to have to create a whole 'nother panel, so I practiced chiselling on my project. :( Now one shoulder has a bit of droop to it. :eek: LOML says she can't see it... unless the light is right. Same old story... When do I get to quit making so many mistakes? Guess that is what that box is for that they plant you in. That should keep me well away from tools. ;) Anyway, I had bookmatch veneered this panel, so replacement is not so easy. Filling the area may not be much better.

I may post it when I get time and ask for suggestions.

David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Steve Clardy

Hey Hey Hey:eek: Just what are you doing up at 12:28 AM??:eek:
Trying to catch me or what?:eek: Can't sleep??

BTW. Haven't heard any banging around south of here for a while. You doing any projects or just slouching down there?:confused:

Steve:)

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