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What's the deal with the transmission, especially on my 96 Ranger, where the only rear wheel that gets traction in a slippery situation is the one that is on the ice/mud, etc. How aggravating that is.
Doesn't make any sense.
There is such a thing whereby the wheel that is slipping gets the drive, right? Posi-traction?
What you are describing is typical behavior of a rear differential without positive traction or traction control. It is designed to work that way so that the rear wheels can rotate at different speeds when turning sharply and the distance traveled by the inside tire is less than the outside tire. If the rear tires were solidly linked together, they would "crab" in turns, which causes an unpleasant shuddering or grinding feel on dry pavement and stresses the drivetrain. The solution to this problem used to be, and may still be on some vehicles, a mechanism called limited slip, in which the left and right axles are temporarily linked together during a spinning event. This feature is purely mechanical and is typically an extra cost option. You obviously don't have it. Some modern vehicles have a feature called traction control. These systems use a control computer to measure the RPM of each wheel, determine which ones are slipping and and apply selective braking to individual wheels to stop the spinning. The braking may actually swap repeatedly between the rear wheels to maintain traction. Even more sophisticated vehicles have full stability control, in which a computer monitors all four wheel speed sensors, as well as other inputs, to determine when the driver is losing control and then selectively applies braking and cuts throttle in an attempt to prevent a wreck. This is really oversimplified but I hope it makes some sense.
You don't have a problem with your transmission, nor your differential. It is behaving normal. Unless you have limited slip or better yet a "locking" differential.
Our 1998 Ranger extended cab did the same thing, it was horrible in any snow. You can have the rear axle upgraded/swapped out to get a limited slip differential but it will be expensive....add weight in the winter and make sure you get good traction tires.....
A limited slip can be retrofitted if it is a truck you want to keep.
http://www.andysautosport.com/limite...nger/1996.html
Add to this the cost of swapping out parts, ring gear needs to be set up by a pro with the proper tools.
Larry
Art nailed it. ;)
Here is an animation of how an open differential works:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOgoejxzF8c
There are various types of limited spin/ locking differentials out there like sure-grip, Posi-Lock, Torsen, etc. which use various methods (e.g., clutch pacs, coned washers and springs, spools) to avoid the "one-wheel-on-ice" problem like you described although the options are typically limited per vehicle model. (e.g., for a while, if you had a Dodge you could only get sure-grip.)
Just curious on what type of driving conditions you're getting in Georgia that's making this an issue. If you're doing a lot of off-roading, then a locker (like Daryl suggested) might be better. If it is a once/twice a year occurrence, then weighing down the bed may be the cheapest answer.
David others have pretty much steered you in the right direction above....normal behavior.
My son has a 2WD 2012 Ranger.It has a button on the dash which "locks" the rear end.Only posting to say that Ford offered it on certain years?.....It might be called a trailering pkg?As far as what they call the option?Good luck.
First off the last year for Ranger production was the 2011 model year. I am a car guy and a Ford car guy and I have never heard of this option. I had 2008 Ranger 2WD and now a 2011 Ranger 4WD. My 2011 has a button on the dash to turn the "Traction Control" off (it is active unless turned off by the driver) but that is NOT a lock for the rear end. Traction control uses the braking system to stop the spinning wheel and send the power to the wheel that is not spinning. Traction control can be on 2WD and 4WD vehicles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian W Smith
If someone knows different please post here to let me and others know.
Whelp there you go,I thought it to be a '12 model.....and reading the manual it was sposed to be off,unless pushed which engages it.But I'm a "M/C guy" and don't know much about trucks?So disregard my input.
If it is any help, you can lightly apply the parking brakes and you'll be able to apply energy to both rear wheels when depressing the gas pedal. The rear brakes keeps one or the other rear wheel from spinning freely as if stuck on ice/snow/mud.
Thanks so much guys!:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Mann
I did not know there is a way to retro fit a way to make it work.
My wife is now pushing to get me another truck-never would if it were up to me....
Georgia conditions are what you'd expect. Not too bad. Rarely bad, actually.
this is just a question I have had forever, and knew you all would come through with a cogent answer.
Great idea to try a little emergency brake.
Actually having your rear axle locked with both tires spinning on glare ice is a bad thing and can really get you in trouble. Sometimes you need one wheel just along for the ride to keep you going in a straight line. Posi is good for snow, bad for ice. On my Jeep I have a Detroit Locker, but it never sees snow or ice anymore. Works great on the sand dunes though. But always chirps the tires when pulling out into traffic while turning as it shifts from low to second gear (auto tranny).