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purchased a sorby "s" neck hollow tool
tried it today I seemed to do alright but this tool seems to cut very slow
I tried different speeds ,tilting the tool to the left as recomended but I'm sure someone here has ideas to help me out
should have started out with a small piece but this one was on the bench
still have to take the walls down along way yet
Great looking HF Pete. Hollowing tools tend to cut pretty slow. Make sure your cutting tip is sharp. I have two captured hollowing tools and I tend to work pretty slow with fairly light cuts especially when you get close to the thickness you want. Keep practicing and you will find what works. I have never used the Sorby swan neck so can't comment on it.
Hi Pete, I have the larger Sorby swan neck tool but don't use it very much since I got a captured hollowing rig. I found it to cut better when the cutter is placed so it is inline with the outside of the arc rather than the inside as shown in every photo I've ever seen.
In Sorby's instructional video (link below) they show the cutting tip in both positions but when they actually start to use the tool it's inline with the outside curve.
http://robertsorby.co.uk/sorbymedia/...llowmaster.wmv
Jason
Pete - good looking hollow form! Getting the walls to what thickness you want is the challenge when it comes to hollowing and I still have to work at that!
Like Bernie, I have the Monster captured and articulating arm systems for hollowing but I did start off on the Sorby goose neck. (I still have it - just refuse to use it anymore) The main thing I always had trouble with was keeping the cutter from rotating during the cut.
You have probably already done this - but - make sure the cutter is slightly above the center line when cutting. When I started out I worked hard to keep it at the center line but that actually defeats the cutter. When you sharpen the cutter correctly, it is the little burr that is on top of the edge that does all the work. If you hold the cutter to the wall so that it is slightly above the center line - then the burr makes contact first and you will be amazed at how clean you can cut the wood. Course, that comes with practice, lot and lots of practice! Also, when the cutter is slightly above the center line, should you have a catch, the cutter is pushed down and away from the wood and hopefully doesn't dig in.
You will have to play with angles, sharpening methods and even lathe speeds - and all of that is influenced by the wood you are turning! Lots of stuff to experiment with but when it all comes together you have a turning to be proud of! Remember that what I suggested works well for me and may or may not work for you - but give it a try.
Keep up the good work! Looking forward to seeing the completed piece!
I also use this tool and here is my 2 cents.
First you should check what the wood looks like that you are cutting. Your tool should be producing long strands when your are hollowing, if you are producing dust or little tiny strands then you are doing something wrong. Even a dull blade can produce strands. Try upping the speed a bit and making sure the tool rest is above center line. Remember that the farther the tool is off the tool rest the higher it needs to be for the cutting edge to be at the right level.
I also have some trouble with stability of this tool because often it is so far in the vessel and the tool rest is only so long. The longer and heavier your tool the smoother and more precise your cut will be. The handle on my sorby is only about a foot long, so to increase the length I cut up some PVC pipe and put the tool inside(make sure the tool already fits semi snug into pvp), then I took two small bolts and bolted the tool in place. I did this with three different sizes and all my tools are now interchangeable. I created three sizes of PVC, 18" 24" and 36". After doing this you will get a lot more stability and this will make cutting easier for you.
I have this especially for my roughing gouge. It works wonders.
Just to give you an idea. Not a great picture but you will get the idea. At the right side of the lathe you see it sticking out of the wood that the lathe is mounted on.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...6&d=1229038190
Hope this helps. GL
Alex
thanks for the ideas
steve
I had the toolrest at about the center line so when a rotated to the left as they suggested I was cutting below the center So I"ll give that a try
but sharping the tip anybody have some pics of the correct way to sharpen them
Alex
"Your tool should be producing long strands when your are hollowing, if you are producing dust or little tiny strands then you are doing something wrong. Even a dull blade can produce strands"
most of my cutting seems to be small strands and dust so it's takes a long time to hollow
I'll have to learn to sharpen the tips
In photo #1, the cutter has just been sharpened on the grinder and placed back in the bit holder. It will work in this condition but not as well as when you hone it.
Attachment 104181
In photo #2, the diamond sharpener is moved in the direction of the red arrow. Keep the sharpener flat on the bevel and apply firm pressure. What you are doing is moving a small amount of metal to the very edge of the cutter - creating a burr.
Attachment 104182
In photo #3, the burr has been raised and the cutter is ready for use. I usually hone the cutter 3 or 4 times before returning it to the grinder and starting the whole sequence over.
Attachment 104183
Hope this helps!
thanks for the sharpening advice
seems to cut aot better
tried it on some dry maple but that seemed to dull almost instantly
so got a piece of elm that's still not completely dry and it seem to cut nice
thanks again
this one is about the same dia. as the first one about 6 inches but only about 3 inches tall
still have to finish when it's dry