stupid question about small boxes

I have been building small boxes for years, that said, do any of you have any secerts on keeping the bottom and the ops true at glue up. I use 45's and no matter how careful I am the box will never come out to set true without some sanding. If there is no great secret then how is the best way to true the up? Maybe an enge sander? The reason I am asking is I seem to be making more and more at a time, so anything to slimline the process would help me out.

Thanks.

Boxes are usually between 4 and 12 inches high, 2 to 8 inches deep. How about a jointer?

I guess I'm a little confused with your question, but.......I have toyed with the idea of getting a picture frame shear for shaving the miter joints exactly true. If your question is about how to get the miter joints exactly at 45 degrees this should do the trick. I think the shear is angle adjustable.

I checked and the tool is called a miter frame trimmer. Here is a link/www.clubframeco.com/store/cat_list.php?catId=212

The small boxes I have made I just build the whole box as a unit and then cut the top off on the TC, leaving a 1/32 that I then cut the top the rest of the way with a box knife.

Or am I missing the question altogether?

First.. are your miters true and are the sides exactly the same lenght?

If so.. place them side by side with the outside of the box sides up. Butt the edges carefully. Then use packagining tape strips across the lenght. Turn the outsdie you just taped down. The sides will stay just how you taped them and you can actually fold the fout sides to check alignment.

It they line properly and they should if you have true 45*'s and exact lenght opposing sides. Apply glue to the 45*'s with a chip brush.. fold it up and close it off using more packaging tape around the entire folded assembly.

Good luck...

Sarge..

Do you have any pics of the boxes to share with us. That would be helpful.

As Bill Huber noted, make the top and the bottom at the same time and then cut the top off the bottom. Trying to get everything perfect with separate assemblies is a lot more difficult.

For getting your mitered corners cut perfect, you need a good plastic drafting triangle or a digital angle gauge to get your set up close. Make practice cuts on four peices of scrap or your finish pieces cut extra long to tweak the angle until you get a perfect fit up.

For solid wood tops you need to insure that the "panel" can float or it will bow rather quickly after the top is cut free.

Cut the top off,then glue a strip of wood around the inside edge of the lower part of the box. Say,about 1/2" tall X 1/8" thick,for cigar box sized boxes. Let the strip stick up inside the top some,and bevel it a little so it readily accepts the lid closing,but centers the lid as it comes down against the bottom of the box. Hope this makes sense. If you wish to line the box,the wood strip gives a good place to terminate the raw edge of the felt,etc.

If you wish to line the top,a narrow slit in the wood just above where the strip from below seats,will give you something to tuck the edge of the felt into.

I just bought one of those miter lock router bits the other day. It's for 3/8" to 1/2" stock. Haven't used it yet, but looking forward to seeing how it aligns the sides. This might work if left to set up on a flat surface.
Good luck.