Hello All,
I need some ideas on repairing some rips in Oak vennering glued on top of pressed board , I removed the tile counter top and there were some nails I had to pull, these are on the side of the counter frame.
Thank's,
Dick :mad:
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Hello All,
I need some ideas on repairing some rips in Oak vennering glued on top of pressed board , I removed the tile counter top and there were some nails I had to pull, these are on the side of the counter frame.
Thank's,
Dick :mad:
How about a little more about the problem. I couldn't quit see what exactly you need to repair.
Hi Steve,
These are more like splinters in the Oak vennering , I glued some of them back on but there are some ugly looking gouges I need to fill and finish. The color is like golden oak.
Thanks,
Dick
Even though I don't feel I fully understand your question, Dick, I'll give it a shot. One way of repairing veneer is to cut out the damaged section with a very irregularly shaped punch. Then replace the cut-out veneer with a patch cut with the same punch. I used to see these things offered at woodworking supply houses, but don't remember seeing them lately. They were a piece of steel tubing sharpened and made irregular by corrugating the sharpenned edge. I suppose one could use one of the router devices that allow you to make inlays. They are widely available. Cut out a hole in thin plywood that is a little larger than your damaged area and with the 1/8" router bit set to the thickness of the veneer cut out a hole around the damaged area and then cut a patch in new veneer. (Cut the patch first to see the veneer doesn't split during the cutting) Maybe you are good enough with an Exacto knife to do the trick - I wouldn't be. Try to get veneer that matches your piece as to grain pattern and color.
I'll be interested in the comments of others. I've done this sort of thing in solid wood both with the router device and with a very large plug cutter (1- 1/4") that I have, but my experience with veneer is not very extensive.
Dick, if the spots are relatively small, you might consider patching the holes with an epoxy putty, mixed with a bit of close-colored oak sawdust, then judicious application of stain markers (and even Sharpie markers) to approximate the grain. I've had good luck with this in the past. I have a padauk box I made that got damaged, and there really wasn't a good invisible way to replace the crushed edge with wood, but I salvaged it with epoxy and Sharpies. The patch on my box is very hard to see under a few coats of Arm-R-Seal gloss finish. I'll be posting pics soon...I'm just waiting until the finishing is done. I'used stainable "wood" epoxy that I got at the local hardware store. It has the consistency of Bondo, but has a longer working time, and although it's not as stainable as one would like, a bit of sawdust seemed to help. Then again, I was trying to turn tan epoxy into deep red padauk. I'd think oak would be easier to fake, especially if you're applying a clear coat of something over the patch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Heifner
Hope this helps -
- Vaughn
Thanks guys for the advice.
Dick