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I'm looking to make a cutting board using 2 types of wood in cubes. I'm looking to use 2 contrasting types of wood. I will have the end grain as the surface. Should I use soft or hardwood? I plan on buying from Rockler, I'm looking to use White Birch, White Ash, White Oak or Hard Maple with Black Walnut, Cherry or African Mahogany. Also I'll finish with vegetable oil, will these woods still be food safe? Thanks, Phil
I like hard maple, white oak, and especially hickory for lighter colored woods, cherry and walnut are great choices for darker color. What color combination you want is up to you, you can't go wrong with any of these. Ive never used ash so I can't comment on that. You definitely do not want to finish with vegetable oil, that will go rancid, use mineral oil. All these woods will be fine in regards to safety.
I just made a couple for Christmas gifts and went with Hard Maple and Walnut. I used General Finishes Salad Bowl finish and they turned out great. They were pretty much the Wood Whisperer version except for being smaller.
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Also, I see you are in Nashville. If you dont already have a specific reason for purchasing lumber from Rockler, the price and location of Summers Lumber in Lavergne would be hard to beat. I've had nothing but great experiences with them.
You can't go wrong with hard maple and walnut. Most of the woods you listed would be fine, but I would stay away from using oak or too much mahogany because of the open grain on those woods. That's more little nooks and crannies for bacteria to hide in and grow.
Mineral oil would be the easiest finish, but not too far behind for ease is 2-3 coats of 50% thinned "Salad Bowl Finish" (available at Rockler). SBF is basically diluted varnish that has earned a "foodsafe" label (technically most finishes ONCE CURED are foodsafe but why risk it). IMHO SBF looks better than mineral oil and lasts longer as well.
and endgrain boards are a bit more tricky. Be careful of gaps in your glue-ups. I use alot of maple / cherry in mine .... oh and a second here for mineral oil ... NO vegetable oil. It will go rancid. End grain will soak up alot of oil, so plan on some time to apply several coats.
Thanks for the suggestions. I meant Mineral oil, thanks. Never heard of Summers Lumber, thanks for the tip. Phil
Here is a good place to learn how to build an end grain cutting board: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/butcher-...cutting-board/
I use walnut oil bought at the grocery store for cutting boards and other kitchen related items. Doesn't go rancid that I've found either.
Rock Maple is best for light colored end grain or side grain.
I would not use African Mahogany for a cutting board for side grain designs, end grain would be ok but black walnut is cheaper and gives good service at a cheaper price.
Hickory, either end or side grain designs is really good. Maybe good for 100+ years of use. It's very tough stuff. If you use it with black walnut it gives a good contrast but not as much as rock maple will.
Purple heart end grain or side grain is good contrasting wood but you can get some color bleeding if you use a sanding method for flattening. Same for Paudak.
Enjoy the shavings !
You already got some good advice. In addition:
Be careful with the final flattening your cutting board.
I finish with a scraper.
Sanding can leave bits of grit - which isn't good for your digestive system or the knife edges.
Walnut oil is nice, but it takes an awful lot.
Mineral oil is much easier.
Some parrifin (or beeswax) melted into the oil (double boiler please) helps seal the grain so cleanup is more effective. (I soak overnight) You'll have to scrape the finish to remove the wax that doesn't soak in.