JessEm Mast-R-Slide Atten Mike Heidrick

Hello Mike and other JessEm Mast-R-Slide users:
I recently purchased a new-old-stock Made in Canada JessEm Mast-R-Slide for my SawStop tablesaw. In the process of searching for helpful tips I saw the picture on Mike's website. I noticed that the Mast-R-Slide was mounted on the extension wing rather than the table itself. I like that idea for several reasons and wondered if there were any drawbacks to doing it that way. I guess in theory there might be more flex because its further away from the blade but that might or might not actually affect accuracy.
I'd appreciate any observations you and other Mast-R-Slide users might be willing to share.
Thanks,
Jim

Attachment 293183

http://myplace.frontier.com/imagelib...et=tlx_piclyl4

Looks to me like it is mounted TWO extension wings over. Probably so he wouldn't have to move or cut the fence.



Rick P

Jim

I've had a Mast-R-Slide on my General for 5 or 6 years now and the only reason it's not attached to the left side extension wing is because I don't have enough physical room to do it.
For my saw I would have had to drill holes in the extension wing, but that's trivial. In the event that there was some type of deflection, I would have just supported it from the base of the saw.

Seems a bit far from the blade for my tastes. Ideally, the sliding table would be right next to where the cutting is happening as per a format-type saw.

I have mine mounted on one extension on my SawStop and it works perfectly - no problems with accuracy even when cutting wide sheet goods. I have used my Mast-R-Slide for years and would not be without it. Like most Jessem made in Canada products it is very high quality.

I wanted it close to the blade like jessem recommends so I removed my left extension and cut my rails, and then installed the left extension on the right side. The slider also attaches securely to the tablesaw using the extension holes not so sure you could achieve the save attaching to the extension.

Thanks Robert! That's the kind of real experience I was looking for. Since I posted this topic I went ahead and remounted my Mast-R-Slide on the extension rather than the main table. All seems fine except that the miter bar is not long enough to allow use of the extension if I line it up with the scale in the right place for accuracy. I'll try to come up with a work around. Probably just get another scale.
Did you run into this issue?
Cheers,
Jim

Sent you a note Jim. I have two fences and a bar in the center that connects them. Works but you really cant do miters with it so long. I took it off and the second extension table when I bought the CNC mill. New shop next month so it may go back on before the year is out. Really though I use the Dewalt tracksaw for sheet good breakdowns and a SCMS for cross cuts so it really did not get used much. Had a long arm RAS but I sold it - that was the best for crosscuts.

Thanks Mike, PM sent.

I've had this slide on my TS for almost 10 years. I agree with removing the wing to get it closer to the blade. I've considered remounting the wing and the slide to it, but that's a long stretch for that fence IMO.

Interesting thread, I've had a master slide in a box for a few years now, have been reluctant to mount it on my PM66 for reasons that I didn't want to cut the fence rails or remove the extension table which is also tapped for a power feed. I like the idea of a little slider, but occasionally I do molding runs (shaper/TS run and rip) that really go better with a power feed so I hate to lose that functionality. And occasionally I work with the fence to the left of the blade too for cuts which only work from that side, hate to loose that options too. Was going to put it on a shaper....got a slider for my shaper so thats out. Maybe I'll try hanging it off the existing extension, I'd like it closer to the blade but its probably not essential. Does it require support form below being cantilevered that far from the saws main frame?

Mike, Mark, and Gary:
Thanks for your comments about mounting the JessEm on the main saw table. I initially mounted mine on the main saw table but then realized I needed to alter my outfeed table and reposition my Unifence rail. Repositioning my fence rail is not trivial and while I was thinking about it I happened upon Mike Heidrick's website pic. After seeing his pic I remounted my left wing and then fit the JessEm to the wing. While I agree that closer to the blade is probably better, the JessEm has less deflection at the blade end of the miter bar than my nice miter gauge. That is, I reckon its still more accurate than my AccuMiter. That said, it seems a little awkward to push the table when it is further away from the blade. Also, the miter fence is 2 1/2" too short to allow proper use of the extension if I position it to match the scale. Mike Heidrick extended his by using two fences and a connector. That seems like a good solution if you really want the extra space.
Later today I will remount it again on the table and go ahead and reposition the fence to see how I like it.
On the bright side, aligning the sliding table gets a little easier each time.
Cheers,
Jim

I had one for awhile. Keep in mind that if you need to rip anything longer than about 30" the crosscut fence must be removed in the standard wingless configuration. Mounting it one a wing seems like a good idea. Furthermore, you might rig up a second fence to attach to the face of the Jessem fence (the Jessem fence is alright but the stop is not inspiring, though it does the job), something like an INCRA extrusion or maybe a piece of 80/20 that will accept a European made D-stop.

I have a Jessem on my Unisaw, with the wing removed. It was very easy to cut the Aluminum Unifence rail. Could have done it in place with a SawZall, but I wanted a nice cut and took the rail off and cut it with the chop saw. Cut easily, with no special blade. Since I got the Saw Stop this Unisaw is almost always set up with a dado. I have been making a lot of drawers lately (68 drawers in the kitchen alone), using a table saw lock joint, and having the dado set up permanently is really nice to have.

My Uni is a right tilt, and the slider works well with it. I don't think I would put one on a left tilt saw, as any bevels would always be angled toward the miter fence.

This Unisaw previously had a large Excalibur on it, with the wing left on, and it was pretty handy, but I replaced that with a small Excalibur, with the wing removed, which would crosscut or dado 26" wide panels when set up a notch back toward the operator. Of all the setups I have had on it I liked this one best. I still have the small Excalibur, and will probably replace the Jessem with it one of these days.

The Jessem is a great unit though, I just prefer the small Excalibur.

As for the Saw Stop. It is naturally a left tilt machine, and I will not be putting a slider on it, for the above reason, but that is just my personal preference. Any crosscuts up to 16" get done on my DeWalt RAS anyway, it is very accurate, and sooo much quicker.

Rick Potter

Thanks Loren and Rick!
I was able to relocate my Unifence rail without cutting it and even managed to reuse the scale. It is now mounted so that it doesn't protrude past the main table but it will also allows me to cut chamfers on the left so all's good.
Its still set up with the left wing for now mainly because I don't feel like going through the adjustment process again just yet.
Cheers,
Jim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rick Potter

I don't think I would put one on a left tilt saw, as any bevels would always be angled toward the miter fence.

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