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Hi All,
I'm planning on doing a kitchen table for my wife. Its going to be a simple 3ft by 4ft table our kitchen is small. I'm doing it in Black walnut I got enough for $125.00 so I don't think thats too bad. The real question is how should I finish it to bring out the best qualities of the wood. I'm thinking of just a clear coat of something, is there anything to help bring out the color before putting the clear finish on. Thanks for your time.
Chuck
Nothing brings out the color of wood like a good quality clear gloss finish.
The best application is by spraying. I dont know if you have a spray gun or not, but if you do I would suggest a high quality catalyzed lacquer or a high quality conversion varnish.
When you have glued up your top, sanded it and are ready to finish it, wipe it with a wet rag full of thinner. THis will show you pretty much how it will look when the finish is applied. A pretty wood like walnut should not be stained, the stain hides some of the grain. A satin finish diffuses the reflection of light and also hides some of the grain features.
Thanks Tony, I was thinking along those lines. I'm not going to put any stain on it. I pick wood that looks good before starting and prefer to finish with just a clear high gloss finish.
Chuck
Walnut will greatly benefit from an application of shellac for color before you proceed to clear coating it, especially if it was kiln dried (and likely steamed) material. My preference is to use de-waxed shellac for this purpose.
As to the clear coat, if you are a hobbyist and don't have proper spray facilities, then you'll want to use a normal oil-based varnish (brush or wipe) or a water borne product. (if you want to spray) Lacquer is a wonderful finish, but not something you want to work with in or around your home. That goes double for pre-cat, etc...nasty stuff. And you're not going to shoot it outside in Cleveland at this time of year!
If you can spray, Target Coatings has a very nice water borne conversion varnish. That said, I generally use Target Coatings USL which has the same burn-in properties as lacquer and has proven to be really durable in my own kitchen. In fact, our table, which was finished (mistakenly) with a typical polyurethane varnish has not held up to cleaning. I'll be refinishing that table in the spring with the USL or the conversion varnish product. (I only spray water borne)
I will be trying to use water borne finished due to the weather, snow and real cold.What clear coat do you advise on the table. and what type of de-waxed shellac ?? I have a lot of time before this takes off,so I can order what I would need off the internet. Thanks for all your help so far.
Chuck
Many folks like orange shellac on walnut, so you'll have to source that as flakes for de-waxed. I generally just use Zinsser Seal Coat, which is more blond, but dewaxed and available off-the shelf. Brushes or sprays well right out of the container.
The clear coats I mentioned previously are what I personally would use. The USL holds up well in my experience and I suspect that the conversion varnish will be even better. Target currently has a 20% off sale through the 15th for online orders at their FinishingZone.com site. Note that you must be able to get your shop tempurature up to at least 65ºF or better to work with these finishes (as well as varnishes), although the shellac can go on at lower temps since it's an evaporative finish.
I'll be doing this in my basement,I don;t know if that makes any differance or not. The temp. won't be a problem.I'm more concered about the fumes, what is targets web address so I can look up what they have.
Chuck
The Target Products have nearly zero VOC...and less smell than typical latex paint. No problem for basement use, but you still need to wear a respirator and it's not a terrible thing to have an exhaust fan or air cleaner to mop up the suspended material in the air. I run my air cleaner in the shop for that purpose.
Per my previous, finishingzone.com
Garnet dewaxed shellac is my favorite on kiln dried walnut. On air dried I like the blonde.