Question about fence for Rockwell/Delta 28-345 20" band saw

I have a Delta table saw fence that I need to cut down to fit my 24-1/4" Rockwell 28-3X5 band saw table. I can wing it, but I have read of this being done before. I believe the table saw tables are 27" so I could take the difference and go for it, but this fence cost more than I want to say. So anyone have some tried and true numbers they can share?

Also, these are my guides,shown stacked for a half inch blade. I have a 1" wide 14 tpi that is going to require a few more, any leads on where these can be purchased? I picked up a big chunk of lignum vitea to make blocks out of, but have not had time yet. Main thing is to get the fence and miter going since I can at least use 1/2" blades as is. Already put nice new blue tires on instead of the original plastic ones and it tracks perfectly, worth every penny of the $250 it cost.

I guess if some one that has this aluminum Delta fence could help me with a measurement of table width on their table saw and a measurement of their fence, just to make sure we are on the same page. I could then use those measurements against the width of the band saw table as pretty safe place to start.

Why do you have to cut it? Can't you just relocate the rear clamp? I installed a Delta T-30 fence on my tablesaw which has a shorted table top than the fence was designed for, I didn't cut the fence just relocated the rear guide that rides on the rear rail.

Just hoping to make it look like an original equipment setup.

Also, I am trying to go with the original designers way of doing this. I have found that when I try to re-engineer some part of a system, one thing leads to another and because of this I have often said "change one thing, change everything". Of course there is a long story behind that, but this would have to be motorcycle engine builders forum to go into that one.

So I am hoping to cut down and thread the rod that pulls the end clamp up and cut down the fence to the correct length, and hopefully it will work as originally designed. The fly in the ointment is getting the dimensions perfect on the first (and only, I hope) cut.

Have to ask, did you move the clamp on the far side of the table up inside the fence, so the face of the fence extends past the output side of the table, basically like it shows in the picture, but with the clamp closer in?

No, the Delta T3 fence is a tee style fence so there is no clamp at the rear just a clip to keep the fence from lifting up and a strip of UHMD plastic as a glide. So in my case the modification was simpler than you have to deal with. Just thinking looks like the rear clamp attaches with two bolts, if you move the clamp forward and slot the mounting holes you would have some adjustment in case your dimension is a little off. You could always cut off the excess after you are satisfied you have the length right. I assume you could just leave the threaded rod long and thread it as far as required to make it tight but I'm not sure exactly how the rear clamp works.


Attachment 365847

I was just looking at the doing what you suggested but I will have to make the length adjustment at the lever end. The end of the shaft at the far end has a pined yolk connected to the clamp riser mechanism. There is a two inch long 0.5" diameter shaft that has a threaded hole that screws on to the end of the rod and this two inch long shaft has a 0.62" diameter shoulder/flat blade screw head on the near side end of the fence. The actual rod ends about 1.5 inches inside the end of the casting around which the aluminum fence is fitted.

What stopped me at first is if this is a 24-1/4" deep table and the table saw table this fence was made for is 27 inches, then the distance from the far side rail to inside of the hook at the far end should be close to 2.75", but it measures 2.54". What I mentioned earlier about change one thing change everything implies an understanding of the entire system, and I obviously am a long way from being there. I guess taking it apart and sketching and measuring every part of it is next. There is a double action to the lever that pushes a brake against the near rail as it pulls the rod that sets the brake on the far end. No way to thread it though for a trial fit, but that would be nice.

So now I have to try to understand this thing enough to determine what size the pieces should be, cut them and see if I am right. What bothers me is my most basic assumption is not backed up by the measurement. This has gotcha written all over it.

If I go only by what I see, I should just cut 2.54" off the rod and aluminum channel, drill a couple of new holes to mount the casting and see what happens. Or does what I measured make sense because Delta table saw tables are really only 26-3/4" deep?

I have a 1968 PM66 that is 28" deep (new aquisition, came as part of an auction to get a 6x48 Delta belt sander) and a Craftsman Professional (made by Jet I believe and had forever) and it is 27" deep, so I am betting the Delta is really 27" on the dot, but confirmation and (if possible) a measurement of the fence (just to confirm same/similar parts) would be nice.

I have read the only difference between the fence Rockwell/Delta sold with the table saw and the fence they sold with the band saw was the length, same casting and mechanism, which is why I bought this fence. When I bought the band saw from Southwest Texas Medical Center in Dallas, it already had the rails on it. So if someone out there has an original Delta/Rockwell fence steel or aluminum for any 20" Delta band saw with a 24-1/4" deep table, could you take a couple of measurements of your fence, that could be very helpful?

Will take apart and post pictures tomorrow.

Definitely more complex than a Tee style fence. Good idea to take your time to understand how it works before getting out the hacksaw. Maybe you can mock up a table to match the existing fence dimensions and see what the correct dimensions need to be for your table.

If you cutoff the fence just slightly longer than you think you would only need a washer or two on the bar to table mounting bolts/spacers to take up the space and make it tight. Too short and you shorten the spacers a bit. Just because the factory made it a certain way doesn't mean it is the best way, just a more expedient way to manufacture. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Christensen

If you cutoff the fence just slightly longer than you think you would only need a washer or two on the bar to table mounting bolts/spacers to take up the space and make it tight. Too short and you shorten the spacers a bit. Just because the factory made it a certain way doesn't mean it is the best way, just a more expedient way to manufacture. ;)

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Good idea, a lot easier than trying to deal with the situation if you cut it too short.

Move the holes 2 5/8" and shorten the control rod by the same amount. I was going to shorten the fence, just noticed my cut line in the picture. Never got round to it.

Attachment 366574

This is an excellent project. I did my fence several or more years ago? Cheap and the end result is a better fence than what comes on any of the Chinese saws.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by David Olsen

I was just looking at the doing what you suggested but I will have to make the length adjustment at the lever end. The end of the shaft at the far end has a pined yolk connected to the clamp riser mechanism. There is a two inch long 0.5" diameter shaft that has a threaded hole that screws on to the end of the rod and this two inch long shaft has a 0.62" diameter shoulder/flat blade screw head on the near side end of the fence. The actual rod ends about 1.5 inches inside the end of the casting around which the aluminum fence is fitted.

What stopped me at first is if this is a 24-1/4" deep table and the table saw table this fence was made for is 27 inches, then the distance from the far side rail to inside of the hook at the far end should be close to 2.75", but it measures 2.54". What I mentioned earlier about change one thing change everything implies an understanding of the entire system, and I obviously am a long way from being there. I guess taking it apart and sketching and measuring every part of it is next. There is a double action to the lever that pushes a brake against the near rail as it pulls the rod that sets the brake on the far end. No way to thread it though for a trial fit, but that would be nice.

So now I have to try to understand this thing enough to determine what size the pieces should be, cut them and see if I am right. What bothers me is my most basic assumption is not backed up by the measurement. This has gotcha written all over it.

If I go only by what I see, I should just cut 2.54" off the rod and aluminum channel, drill a couple of new holes to mount the casting and see what happens. Or does what I measured make sense because Delta table saw tables are really only 26-3/4" deep?

I have a 1968 PM66 that is 28" deep (new aquisition, came as part of an auction to get a 6x48 Delta belt sander) and a Craftsman Professional (made by Jet I believe and had forever) and it is 27" deep, so I am betting the Delta is really 27" on the dot, but confirmation and (if possible) a measurement of the fence (just to confirm same/similar parts) would be nice.

I have read the only difference between the fence Rockwell/Delta sold with the table saw and the fence they sold with the band saw was the length, same casting and mechanism, which is why I bought this fence. When I bought the band saw from Southwest Texas Medical Center in Dallas, it already had the rails on it. So if someone out there has an original Delta/Rockwell fence steel or aluminum for any 20" Delta band saw with a 24-1/4" deep table, could you take a couple of measurements of your fence, that could be very helpful?

Will take apart and post pictures tomorrow.

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I have an original fence on my 28-345, so if you need any details PM me.