Portable Workbench Design

Hey everyone,
I've been trying to learn on a crappy workbench with a $20 vise for the past year, and I think it's time I take the plunge and build something better. My lack of a decent workbench is holding my progress and skill-building back more than anything else at this point. The reason that I've put it off and my main obstacle, however, is that I move frequently and likely won't be in the same place for more than a year or so for the next few years or more. When I move I generally try to only take what I can fit in my pickup truck so space is at a premium. And I may be living in a city at some point where I'll either be in an apartment or in a house without much space as well. Someday I'll make a version of Will Myers' Moravian bench but that may be a ways down the road.

After consideration and a lot of time looking at workbench designs on the internet, I've settled on making something along the lines of Steve Latta's mini workbench. It's small enough that I can carry it, transport it easily, secure it to a countertop or table, and it has most of the features I think I'll need in a bench. A lot of the projects I'll be working on will probably be small due to my size and space constraints, but I want to work on skills that will carry over to bigger projects like tables, chests, bookshelves, etc. at some point.
Attachment 362736

There are a couple things I'm thinking about modifying for me design. One, the bench above is 42" long and only about 9.5" wide. I haven't settled on a size yet but 42" is pretty long, and I wonder if making something shorter and wider like 30x12" or so would be more versatile. I really don't have enough experience to know what size would be better. Thoughts?


The next issue: how to attach the legs.

Another design I like a lot is this one by Adrian Preda: https://www.instagram.com/p/BLHI_zXA...by=adrianpwood

If the bench is going to be secured to a countertop then the shorter legs might put it at a better height for less-detailed work like planing. Since I can't decide how high the bench should be to best suit my needs, my hope is to make some sort of system with removable legs so that I can make multiple sets of legs as needed and even a set tall enough to make this a standing bench if it becomes feasible. My best idea so far is to make mortises for the legs to go into and then put insert (pictured below) nuts into them.
Attachment 362737
This would be easy to take apart, would allow for some wood movement, and be more secure than just sitting the bench top on dowels protruding form the tops of the legs. Thoughts on this idea? Any criticisms or suggestions?

Thanks,
Matthew

This was my approach.

There are very small workbenches with built-in vises available. You won't want tall legs on such a small bench, which would make it tippy and unusable. Instead, consider attaching it to the top of a rectangular toolbox, and kneel to work on it, keeping its center of gravity low. I often work kneeling like this as a boat builder. The toolbox's bottom can be covered/coated with non-slip material to resist planing forces. It might be enough to simply mount a lightweight drill press vise to the top of the toolbox. This is the approach I am taking, using an aluminum vise for easy portability. But one of the readily available wooden benchtop/vises would likely be a better option for you.

Attachment 362739

I use a Kobalt 42" portable sawhorse from Lowes as my base unit, it folds up pretty compact. I have 2 tops that fit it. One is for carving and general purpose, another top for my mini lathe and mini milling machine. My mini lathe is a Taig, that has been fixed up for wood, metal and jewelry all fits in a small suitcase. The mill is an attachment that fits the Taig, it also fits in the same suitcase.

How about a dual purpose piece. A 2" Maple top on sturdy but attractive legs can be a piece of furniture or a workbench as needed. It can even be a dining table.

Give it a nice overhang so you can clamp to it instead of a vise. You can add a vise of course. My first bench is 24" x 60" with a 3" gap in the center for more clamping.

Start with 5" squares 30" long. Turn them to nice shapely legs with the tops left square. Make aprons from 2" x 6" stock and mortise them into the legs.

Flip this over onto the top planks and trace. Rout about an inch into the top and glue it together.

You now have a sturdy and good looking table. When you move, put it upside down in the truck and pile on.