Shop Layout Critique Requested

All

I've been spending the better part of the last couple of weeks planning a transformation of my garage shop to accomodate a new cyclone dust collector that I am considering. This is what I've come up with so far for the new layout. I'd appreciate feedback from folks here. Because I share this space with the rest of the family, I need to keep a pathway open between the two doors.

For what its worth, most of my equipment is mobile (or easily moved) except the CNC and the jointer. Also the dark grey lines represent pre-existing HVAC ducting or the gas main. Also not shown are stuff like lawnmower, bikes, and what-not. I plan to store those behind the tablesaw (they are moved out of the way when I'm working).

Thanks in advance!

Andy

Attachment 269909

Andy,

Do the depicted ducts represent permanent ducts from the ceiling area to which you will run flex to your machines? If so, and if they are 6" transitioning to 4" then you have done as best as you can in your situation. I might suggest another drop by the router if you want to pick up from the fence. Also, if possible, have a wye splitting to two ducts by the jointer and the tablesaw. Can't tell actual dimensions of the pipe coming off of the cyclone but it certainly looks longer than the "minimum" 2 feet of straight pipe
commonly advised to maintain air flow before going to a wye. You managed to keep your duct lengths short so certainly the cyclone that you are contemplating purchasing will be up to the task.

My suggestion would be to turn the inlet of the cyclone to point to the farthest drop, then have wyes turn to each of the other items. It would allow a straighter run to the cyclone and you would be taking out a 90 degree turn from each of the other tools, except for the miter/planer station, and then you would only be adding a 45 degree turn to it. Think of your ducting runs from each tool to the cyclone...the fewest turns possible are usually the best for air flow. Jim.

Paul

Sorry... I've been staring at this so long, I am obviously taking things for granted that aren't so clear (I realize that now).

The blue ducts will be permanent ducts (yet to be installed) running along the ceiling. It will either be 6" SDR-35 or possibly 7" snaplock. My first quote for PVC from Fergusons is running $6.25 per foot of 6" pipe and ~$30 per fitting. I haven't gotten a serious quote on the snaplock to see what that will cost. My plan was to run the ducting at the same size until finally transitioning to 4" flex at the very end like you indicated. My bandsaw has two 4" connections, so I planned on splitting the 6" drop into two. Similarly, I planned on splitting the drop into two for the tablesaw and jointer.

I seriously thought about adding a drop for the router... but it seemed to me that it would be in the way as you're pushing the workpiece thru. I need to get more thought into how to handle the dust collection for the router. I saw a neat idea on another webpage where someone made a clever dustbox that allowed you to switch the dust collection between the router and the tablesaw. Might look into that.

I needed to have the straight run coming out of the cyclone in order for it to get approximately to ceiling height (I will still need a short length of 6" flex to get it up there).

Thanks for the feedback!!
Andy

Jim

Thanks... I will check into that. The one problem I would have in running the ductwork straight towards the CNC machine is that I have to jockey the ductwork around my garage door tracks which are at about the 7ft mark. Since the inlet to the cyclone is at 6ft, in order to do a straight shot over, I'd have to use a longer section of flex (I think) to get the duct up to the ceiling. I don't have a good feeling for which is worse, more flex, or the 90deg bend... any comments?

Andy

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Andy,

If you haven't done so yest, go to the Bill Pentz website and try using his "Static Calculator spreadsheet. You can easily test the resistance effects of elbows, wyes, flex ducts, etc on your design.

Also, check out his Static Calc FAQs

Both tools will answer the "what ifs" that we struggle with

Jim, is this sort of what you had in mind (attached)? My only concern is the transition from the cyclone inlet at ~6ft from the floor, to the ducting along the ceiling at about 7.5ft. With the odd angles here, I'll most likely have to use some amount of flex hose.

Attachment 270287

I tried moving the cyclone "west" to align with the ductwork which points towards the bandsaw, but that results in an even tighter "s-bend" in order to make room for the wye which leads to the TS/jointer area.

Andy,

in San Jose, Ewing irrigation in Campbell and over by the airport have 6" SD and fittings in stock. I got mine there but don't know how prices compare to Ferguson. Shop layout looks nice. PVC is easy to change if you don't use glue and want to tweak it afterwards for any reason.

Thanks for the tip on Ewing Irrigation... they did come in a lot cheaper than Fergusons!!

Andy

Andy,

You were pricing 40 weight piping which is very heavy for ductwork. Did you consider ASTM2729 Sewer and drain piping (aslso known as thinwall). That's what most of us use when we choose PVC. I bought mine from Ferguson's here in Connecticut. I paid about $1.60/foot and about $15.00 for wyes (all 6") as I recall. It was about three years ago, so I think prices would have increased

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Paul Wunder

Andy,

You were pricing 40 weight piping which is very heavy for ductwork. Did you consider ASTM2729 Sewer and drain piping (aslso known as thinwall). That's what most of us use when we choose PVC. I bought mine from Ferguson's here in Connecticut. I paid about $1.60/foot and about $15.00 for wyes (all 6") as I recall. It was about three years ago, so I think prices would have increased

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I should have clarified by SD, I was referring to sewer/ drain thin wall ASTM2729. Much agreed that it is lightweight and perfectly suited for dust collection. This stuff has risen astronomically in price over the last few years in this area. The schedule 40 would break the bank at 6" !

Funny, I told the guy what I wanted it for, and he asked whether I wanted solid wall or perforated........go figure

What I asked for was SDR-35 which I thought I had read was the same dimensions as ASTM2729... thanks for setting me straight!!

Thanks
Andy

Andy, I have tool layout thoughts that could help your ducting AND improve the family use vs. shop use: I see there are 2 side doors and that the laundry is separate from the fridge & pantry, which basically means your garage shop is forced to keep a circulation path open at all times for domestic needs and this also prevents any kind of separation of shop and domestic activities. If you're working, you can and will be interrupted by someone needing to walk thru your work space whilst you're in the midst of a procedure. If it's possible (i.e., the wife allows it), it looks like you could swap the pantry/fridge stuff for where you presently have the miter/planer station, and put the DC where the clamp rack is shown -- relocate this, or better yet make it a mobile rack.

These mods look like they would shorten your duct runs and better segregate the uses of the garage; likewise, putting the miter/planer station next to the garage door provides you w/ unlimited in/outfeed. That said, if the side door at the top of the pict is the one used to enter directly into your home, then you're better off sticking w/ what you've laid out. Another thing worth considering is to use the 6" duct only for the horizontal runs and the riser section that goes to the DC input (i.e., the "trunk"), and then switch to 4" for the drops and tool output runs. This will save you a bundle on materials, and increase the efficiency and collection performance of the system.

Thanks for the feedback... unfortunately, the side door on the top left leads outside (and is hardly ever used). I put the pantry closest to the door leading to the house to avoid extra foot traffic through the garage. Of course, its impossible to eliminate it entirely due to the location of the washer/dryer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andy Sowers

Paul

Sorry... I've been staring at this so long, I am obviously taking things for granted that aren't so clear (I realize that now).

The blue ducts will be permanent ducts (yet to be installed) running along the ceiling. It will either be 6" SDR-35 or possibly 7" snaplock. My first quote for PVC from Fergusons is running $6.25 per foot of 6" pipe and ~$30 per fitting. I haven't gotten a serious quote on the snaplock to see what that will cost. My plan was to run the ducting at the same size until finally transitioning to 4" flex at the very end like you indicated. My bandsaw has two 4" connections, so I planned on splitting the 6" drop into two. Similarly, I planned on splitting the drop into two for the tablesaw and jointer.

I seriously thought about adding a drop for the router... but it seemed to me that it would be in the way as you're pushing the workpiece thru. I need to get more thought into how to handle the dust collection for the router. I saw a neat idea on another webpage where someone made a clever dustbox that allowed you to switch the dust collection between the router and the tablesaw. Might look into that.

I needed to have the straight run coming out of the cyclone in order for it to get approximately to ceiling height (I will still need a short length of 6" flex to get it up there).

Thanks for the feedback!!
Andy

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I would definitely keep calling around on prices for the 6" S&D pipe. I found it earlier his year for $1.62/ft. I'm now upgrading to the CVMAX with 8" duct work and found the 3034 S&D pipe for $5/ft delivered.

The fittings I've found cheapest at Menards. Good luck in your quest! I too am setting up a new shop. I decided to nest my jointer next the right side of my TS as well. Sadly, I decided this just after the electricians left. My lessor paid for the electric out of his pocket so I'm on my own now. No biggie.