Chainsaw sharpening problem
Have been sharpening my Stihl chain saw for a number of years, but have a problem now that I cannot solve. Recently, the saw slices to the left and getting worse [not a golfer, so don't know if left is really a slice :)] after starting a perpendicular cut through a log. I have not changed the sharpening method and use a file, with a final touch by a rotary stone the same size as the file. The slice is so drastic that a cut through a 14-inch log results in a 45 degree cut at the bottom :eek:. Thought someone might have experienced this problem and have a solution so I don't have to take to professional or dealer.
NOT the voice of experience...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Chris Barnett
Have been sharpening my Stihl chain saw for a number of years, but have a problem now that I cannot solve. Recently, the saw slices to the left and getting worse [not a golfer, so don't know if left is really a slice :)] after starting a perpendicular cut through a log. I have not changed the sharpening method and use a file, with a final touch by a rotary stone the same size as the file. The slice is so drastic that a cut through a 14-inch log results in a 45 degree cut at the bottom :eek:. Thought someone might have experienced this problem and have a solution so I don't have to take to professional or dealer.
This has never happened to me, so I'm no voice of experience, but two things come to mind:
1) Are you somehow NOT getting the teeth on the right side of the chain sharp? If the teeth on the left side bite and the teeth to the right don't that would make it move to the left, I imagine.
2) Is your bar straight? I would think if it weren't your issue would be the chain skipping off, but if there's a twist in the bar it might cause a tracking problem.
Chainsaw sharpening problem
This has happened to me on several occasions. One common cause that hasn't been mentioned is uneven wear of the bar rails such that one is higher than the other. Take the bar off and remove the chain and sight down the length of the bar. The difference is usually visible if you're having a problem with curved cuts. You can correct this by clamping the bar into a vise and with a mill-bastard file held at right angles to the bar, file the high side down to be level with the low. Bailey's (www.baileysonline.com) sells a tool (special file holder) that can be used to accurately level out the bar rails. While you're at it, check the depth of the groove to assure that it's deeper than the tangs on the drive links. If the rails are so worn down that the cutters ride above the rails and rock in the groove, which is worn wider than when new could also lead to angled cuts. Another possibility is that the width of the groove has increased because of wear and allows some angle to develop in the cut. I've never tried it, but I understand that there is a tool to pinch the bar groove down to correct it. It's unlikely that uneven sharpening of the teeth if you're experienced in sharpening. Of course, there is always the possibility that it's time for a new bar. It's said that one bar should last through two chains, assuming that lubrication was adequate. If it is time to treat yourself to a new bar/chain set, and check the sprocket for excessive wear while you're at it. Gene Gauss