Here is one for you that I found on the web:
Gauge - 110V
22 - 5A
20 - 7.5A
18 - 10A
16 - 13A
14 - 17A
12 - 23A
10 - 33A
8 - 46A
6 - 60A
4 - 80A
2 - 100A
1 - 125A
0 - 150A
Here is one for you that I found on the web:
Gauge - 110V
22 - 5A
20 - 7.5A
18 - 10A
16 - 13A
14 - 17A
12 - 23A
10 - 33A
8 - 46A
6 - 60A
4 - 80A
2 - 100A
1 - 125A
0 - 150A
I ran 4 conductors of #4 AWG and 60 amp breakers for my garage about 40 feet into an 8 circuit box. Enough for lights, outlets and 2 breakers for the 220V for the shaper and/or other 220 stuff. I put all GFCI in for outlets spaced about 6 feet apart on the wall at a height of 48" (Much easier to find). 4 light switches to only turn on what I need for the area I am working in, including lights on either side of the garage door outside. Good luck.!!
The distance is not the major factor in wire size, the amperage you will pull thru the wire is. There is a consideration of voltage drop with long runs of wire, which does/could bump the size up depending on how long the run is, but again that is a secondary consideration after amperage consideration. Your local codes can also play a part in the sizing.
There are many charts on the web for wire sizing, here is one example:
http://www.allenelectric.com/referencedata/ampacity.htm
There are also voltage drop calculators available as well, here is an example for that (bottom of the page):
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Just as a side not as well, the poster above referencing #2 aluminum is only good for 90 amps... that is true for THWN, RHW, and USE but when using THWN-2, USE-2, XHHW-2, XHHW, RHW-2, or RHH it's good for 100 amps.
Same disclosure as above, I'm not an electrician, but just completed a new garage and spent a lot of time researching what I'd need to run for my 125' run with a 100 amp sub panel.
Jay, some of the amperages in the list above are too high for the gauge listed per the ampacity table in the NEC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Hanson
When someone refers to "110V" wire sizes it's suspect at best, but I concur that the ampacity's are not correct & to add to it, the temp.rating of the cable insulation also determines it's allowable ampacity for example, NM (& SE/SER cables under the 2008 NEC) are sized using the 60° C column, yet THHN/THWN in a in a dry location conduit would be be sized @ 75° although it's rated at 90° in a dry location there is no 90° rated equipment (just some that require connecting cable to be rated @ 90°C ).Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Hanson
Just a couple of thoughts. First, wire size is selected first by the determining the current load. Then the distance is factored in to determine if the voltage drop based on that wire size is beyond acceptable limits, normally it should be less than 3%.
However, I'd find a good electrical supply house in the area and make a friend. I've got a couple in town I use on a regular basis for personal use. They will normally help you size the wire based on your specs. While the big boxes can be great for price, you probably won't find much of a difference in price at a good supply house and the staff will be a lot more knowledgeable.
Thanks to all for all the help, and by all means feel free to hijack the thread. I got what I needed out of it. :D
Last night I pulled the wire for my new panel. So the 6/3 romex style is in place. I got the panel up and and the MC 12/3 cable strung over from the panel to the drop spots for the wiring.
I got the sub-panel in the garage all wired up. I am down to tightening the MC wire runs and putting on the surface mount boxes. Can't wait to finally have my shop back up and running here in the new house!
Thanks again for the all the ideas/help/suggestions. Going with the 6/3 copper wire turned out to be the very best idea. I have plenty of power and I am off making great progress in getting everything running.
So I just have to say thanks!!!
Joshua