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I am making some thick 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" legs. I tried using a lock miter bit and 6/4 cherry. Most of the legs came out ok but a couple need help. I decided to use cherry veneer over them. They came out looking great. My question is did I screw up using titebond neoprene plus contact cement? I started reading about veneering after the fact and I am not certain it will hold up to the wood movement. If I need to remove it and start over now is my only chance.
Contact cement shall not be used for veneering! Remove it now while you can or "pay more" later removing it. :)
Is this shop-sawn veneer or commercial veneer? In other words, what is the thickness of it?
Thanks its commercial veneer.
I agree that contact cement is not a good glue for commercial veneer and that it can delaminate. The best approach would be to remove the veneer and then use a regular woodworking glue. There are glues made specifically for veneer, but regular PVA will also work. Urea formaldehyde (UF) is a good veneer glue, cures hard with no creep.
I use PVA on a lot of my work and have never had a problem.
Mike
I love the UF stuff. Scarey stuff, though cause it is a fine powder that can get airborne. if gets into your chest could be a problem, as it sets up w just water. A little would go a long way in causing permanent respiratory problems.
But-hey.....no creep at all. When i do veneer i want to know it will stay put, right?
David,
UF stuff? Might you referring to Unibond 800 or some kind of Urea Formaldehyde?
Urea formaldehydeQuote:
Originally Posted by Chris Padilla
I don't care for plain yellow glue as it is a bit too thin and can sometimes go through the veneer on some pieces. I've had better luck with Titebond cold press glue so far. Next veneer project will be used with hot hide glue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Henderson