I've ****en my New Lathe (1836)

SO, I've had it for 4 days, and today while tightening the lock for the quill on the tailstock, the bolt snapped clean in half. I do not believe i was applying very much pressure, but she sure is clean.

I contacted Laguna, because that's some shenanigans and they should take care of it, but in the meantime, what are my options for getting that stuck bolt out of the tail without damaging those threads? I have tried to easy out bolts before and have had maybe 15% success rate. Making me think I shoulda got the powermatic...

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I've had my 18/36 for 3 years now and it takes very little pressure to tighten any of the locks.... unless there was a defective bolt you must have had your Wheaties for breakfast to snap it off!!

I’d say it’s going to take an “easy-out”.

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Originally Posted by mike ash

I’d say it’s going to take an “easy-out”.

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+1 ez-outs work pretty well on larger bolts and when heavy rust isn't involved. You could try a left handed drill bit; on non rusty stuff just starting to drill into the bolt with a left-handed bit is often enough to back it out. But in this case, since you were tightening the bolt against the column when it snapped, it's going to take a lot of torque to back it out, so I think the ez-out is your best shot. Just get a decent quality set.

Update: almost got it completely out via easy-out, will have to tap the threads and clean them up but i think it'll get out.

One thing to note; other owners of the 1836, does you quill lock go through the "precise position" block or does it go through the top of the tailstock casting, and is activated via a camming quill-lock device? looking through the manual, the type that my new lathe came with isn't even described in the pictures. Rather, in the exploded parts diagram for the 1836 tailstock (page 35 in the online manual) they only show the old solution for clamping, which looks far more durable and secure.

Maybe it is just me, but I typically don't tighten the quill lock with very much force. Same thing with the lock on the banjo. In fact, I use very little force and have never noticed that it backed out when running. Perhaps it was a defective bolt.

In the mean time, while you're waiting for the replacement lock, you could go to HD or Lowes and get a bolt (probably metric) and use a wrench to tighten it. In fact, it is possible that they stock these locking levers in their small parts specialty bins. There are a lot of places to buy these locking levers on line.

Glad to hear you got it out.

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Originally Posted by isaac green

Update: almost got it completely out via easy-out, will have to tap the threads and clean them up but i think it'll get out.

One thing to note; other owners of the 1836, does you quill lock go through the "precise position" block or does it go through the top of the tailstock casting, and is activated via a camming quill-lock device? looking through the manual, the type that my new lathe came with isn't even described in the pictures. Rather, in the exploded parts diagram for the 1836 tailstock (page 35 in the online manual) they only show the old solution for clamping, which looks far more durable and secure.

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Looks like they have changed the design a bit since I got my lathe... I don't have that precise position thing.... the lock is on top of the tailstock...

Thank you Barry! That confirms that they redesigned the lock. The new one seems like a pretty big step-down from the old design. shame.

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Originally Posted by Brice Rogers

Maybe it is just me, but I typically don't tighten the quill lock with very much force. Same thing with the lock on the banjo. In fact, I use very little force and have never noticed that it backed out when running. Perhaps it was a defective bolt.

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It's not just you. I know others who barely or never tighten the quill lock. I haven't even tightened mine in years - in fact I removed the lever. I can't remember the quill ever loosening by itself. Sometimes it needs snugging but with green or soft wood, not because it's loosened.

Maybe it depends on the size and kinds of things turned or the type of wood. I almost always turn dry. Maybe shaking the lathe with big, out-of-balance blanks could vibrate the hand wheel and loosen it, I don't know.

JKJ