Making a table top look thicker...

I am planning on building a walnut trestle table, but I only have access to 4/4 rough stock for the top. As things go, it looks like I'll be able to get about 13/16 in thickness out of it. Are there any tricks that I can employ to make the top look thicker? I've read that I can add thick breadboard ends, rabbet along the length of that table, insert a strip into said rabbet and bevel the top edge of the table to blend the added strip.

Will this work? I'd love to hear your ideas and see some examples of solutions.

Sawmill Creek ROCKS!

Breadboard ends are generally thicker than the top they terminate but this will only treat the ends. Is there a reason not to use the source for that thicker material for the whole top? The breadboards may give you the look you want. If you want the whole top to appear thicker, get just a bit more of the thicker material and use it as the outer boards of your glue up panel, then breadboard the whole thing.

I made the top on this dresser look thicker by gluing short pieces of wood across the ends so the end grain shows and adding a 3/4" square strip across the front. This dresser has the look but not the added weight of an 8/4 top.
http://mysite.verizon.net/us71na/cherry%20dresser.jpg
I glued on the pieces on a top that was longer than needed and did a trim cut on each end and the front side after the glue set up to reach the final dimensions I wanted.

If you select the wood carefully the two layers will be all but invisible.

If I want a thicker looking top I make tyhe top longer and wider than needed then trim off both ends and both edges and flip them up under the top and glue them in place. this gives a book match joint all around the edge which I think looks really nice especially on the end grain.

I like Steve's technique. It's different from the 'typical' edge band technique - which will also work fine.

Also, know that topside chamfer/bevels/roundovers make the top look thicker.
Bottom side bevels/chamfers/ro's make it look thinner.

I've used Steve's technique, but don't flip the pieces for a book match. Instead, I slide them down to make more like a slip match. To my eye, a book match emphasizes the fact that I didn't use 8/4 for the whole top, while the slip match isn't very obvious, and many people don't notice it at all.

Steve's technique is particularly intriguing. I'd love to see pictures of an example of this approach. if at all possible.

CB2 is now selling a table with Steve's technique. I wish I was hip to this idea before I bought 12/4 for my dining table :)

http://c3.yousaytoo.com/rss_temp_ima...-1nol829-0.jpg

Very, very cool - I like the look a lot. Many, many possibilities...

Here is the process I use:
1. To make tops look thicker: chamfer the top

2. To make tops look thinner: chamfer the bottom.