Hi Rich,
It looks like I can get some fancy looking digital ones on ebay for not to much, but is the current DC or AC, a search on ebay shows that it seems to matter.
Hmm, looking further, looks like it's DC.
Hi Rich,
It looks like I can get some fancy looking digital ones on ebay for not to much, but is the current DC or AC, a search on ebay shows that it seems to matter.
Hmm, looking further, looks like it's DC.
Howdy, new poster here. This is a great resource that you've put together here! I'm very glad to have found such knowledgable posters.
I'm using the LaserWorks 5.0.21 software package on an Artsign 50W JSM-3060N laser - it has the RDLC320A LCD controller panel. I believe the drive board is a Leetro 6515 but I'm not 100% sure.
Where in LaserWorks do I set the stepper motor configuration? If I engrave a 10" square, the sides come out at about 9.94". If I engrave a 20" square, they come out at 19.88". It seems to be a rather uniform error so I think I just need to recalibrate my stepper motors, but I can't seem to find where to do this. I thought it was in the "User" tab but I don't see it.
I'm also having an issue with backlash on my machine. I posted a thread on it here.
Thanks for any assistance you can give.
Mason
i have also joined the Shenhui club with a double head 80W, been a real slow build up due to sensor issues.
i am struggling with engraving cleanly, and also find that the machine heats up quite quickly. any help with this?
I wrote at some length earlier about setting the step length. Not everyone agrees with me but I think the method of entering the values and letting the software work out the step length is rubbish. If you use that method then you are adjusting the mathematically derived step length to account for some other error. That adjustment will then only be applicable to that particular size of object. Make something twice as small or twice as large and you will find that you need to repeat that processs.
My Shenhui machine should be set to 6.000 step length. Period. If that does not produce an accurate cut then the error is elsewhere in the machine.
Before tweaking anything else make sure you have tuned the backlash - and do not over tighten the belts.
Hmmm... on my machine it seems to be a systematic error that is propagated relative to the object size - that is to say the percentage offset seems to be the same whether I make a 2", 5", 10", or 20" square. Thus far it appears as though my universal correction to the step length is working correctly, regardless of object size. Odd.
mason
I discovered an odd behavior the other day. In LaserWorks when entering the speed and power there are two places to enter power - Min and Max. I generally just enter the max and leave the min alone. Never had a problem.
So I had this 2' x 4' sheet of 3/8 black where the whole sheet had to be cut at once. To be absolutely sure that I cut it cleanly all the way through I lowered the speed to 3mm/sec on the parts that were on the lower right of the bed - furthest from the laser tube. All worked fine until it came to the 3mm/sec part. The ammeter went down to 9mA from it's normal 25 mA. The display correctly said it was at 90% and strangely enough it was still cutting through.
I'll spare the details of how I tracked down the problem but it turns out that entering the power setting into both the min and max was the fix. For some reason, when the speed goes below 4/mm sec the power to the laser seems to alternate rapidly between the min and max settings.
I've never worked out what that max/min thing did (in software) , we just set it almost equal like 27 min , 30 max...
Min and max are used for some of the rastering methods that vary power - like output direct (min and max set the power levels that correspond to RGB 0xffffff and 0x000000) and IIRC also the ramp mode but we rarely use either of these modes and normally set them both the same.
I have a twinhead SH-G1290 80W RECI LASER ENGRAVING AND CUTTING MACHINE when i cut i find the machine overheats quickly and i have to keep stopping the machine and wait to cool off.
the chiller is a cw-500 as advised on this forum. i am cutting at 80-85% 3mm perspex, do i need to look at improving the chiller?
How are you determining that it is overheating? I assume you mean the tube/tubes and not the motors.
hi mike
thats a lot of power for 3mm perspex with a 80W tube, what speed you are running?? I use 40w the small machine and for perspex i only use 45% power and 10mm/s speed.
greetings
waltfl
i have reduced the power and its really cold out so running ok now, couple questions, if the is scaling in the tubes from the water is there any way to flush/clean? also struggling to engrave letters properly as it seems to go a little fuzzy almost like there would be blowback, i am struggling to etch finely, cutting is no probs just etching seems to be an issue?
SH-G1290 80W RECI LASER ENGRAVING AND CUTTING MACHINE