Chinese laser purchase/Shenui/Laserworks tips and tricks thread

Quote:

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Originally Posted by William Dillon

I really don't think it needs to be as complicated as all that. For a first-order approximation, because energy can neither be created nor destroyed, if a laser supply is running at 15,000 volts and produces 20mA of current, we have 300 watts. Some of that may be laser, but if I assume that 100% of it is heat, I'm still in the neighborhood. To me, that has tremendous practical value. Knowing that it 297.3 Watts would be interesting, but useless. :)

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In that case

Beijing EFR

ZN Series

ZN-1250:
Length: 1250mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 80 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 95 Watts
Working Current: 26 Ma

ZN-1450:
Length: 1450mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 100 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts
Working Current: 28 Ma

ZN-1650:
Length: 1650mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 130 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 150 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

ZN-1850:
Length: 1850mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 150 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 180 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

F Series:

F2:
Length: 1250mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 80 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 95 Watts
Working Current: 28 Ma

F4:
Length: 1450mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 100 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

F6:
Length: 1650mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 130 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 150 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

F8:
Length: 1850mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 150 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 170 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

F10:
Length: 2050mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 180 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 195 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

RECI

W2:
Length: 1120mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 80 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 85 Watts
Working Current: 27 Ma

W4:
Length: 1400mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 100 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts
Working Current: 28 Ma

W6:
Length: 1650mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 130 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 150 Watts
Working Current: 30 Ma

W8:
Length: 1850mm +/- 20mm
Diameter: 80mm +/- 2mm
Rated Power Output: 150 Watts
Maximum Power Output: 180 Watts
Working Current: <30 Ma

I'm guessing you will want strike voltages and run voltages as well Will?

cheers

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Sheldrake

In that case

I'm guessing you will want strike voltages and run voltages as well Will?

cheers

Dave

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Yah! That would be awesome! :)

I found a CAD file from RECI that I was able to derive some of the internal measurements from the tubes. Is the majority of the volume of the laser tube really air??

Thanks!,
- Will
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/webkit-f...pplication.pdf
Attachment 296516

What are your solutions for getting minimal burn on the edge of your works? I am working with leather which entails huge careful clean up so you dont dirty the skin.

I have heard you can hook up a compressor that puts more air though the head. Is this correct? If so how can I do it? are ther better ways?

I always used air assist (compressor blowing air across the engraving spot) with leather. Also, if you put blue masking tape (painter's tape - lifts off cleanly even if left on for days) over the cuts it will keep smoke and dust off the material.

I've had a few days with the Shenhui 460. Not nearly enough laser time (due to building a new house), but enough to say I love this machine! It has many advantages over my old Epilog Mini 45W: My Epilog does not have a way to estimate actual job time, it does not simulate the path (so you can see odd jumps and fix them in advance), no light in the cabinet, no button to draw a frame around the engraving/cutting area to make sure it is in the exact right place, and no job storage in the machine itself. Eighty watts digs a LOT deeper into wood and pearl shell than 45 watts. :)

I miss having a head I can move into position by hand. Using the keypad to move it results in inexact placement, unless you slow the speed way down (with several keypad presses). Then, when you want to use the ‘frame’ function, it is still slowed down so you may need to speed it back up. A bit awkward. One of the posts on the ‘creek’ said new mainstream lasers are “faster” than they were 10 years ago, but I am unclear on what that really means. More pulses per second? If we already doing up to 1200 DPI (which I never had a use for myself) what is the new difference? As for overall speed of the head, yes, the maximum is much less than the Epilog. However, except Flexibrass, none of the materials I used to use could be done at very high speeds anyway. Coconut shell (my main substrate) had to be cut and engraved at a speed of “8%”. This laser can go faster simply because it has more power.

Set up was a piece of cake. Alignment was close enough to use as it came. However, the lens and mirrors were filthy and had to be thoroughly cleaned. I am still learning Laserworks (LW)/RDCAM but it is not quite as bad as I feared. (No help file!! None!!!) When starting in CorelDraw, it is a bit annoying to have to export separate engraving and cutting layers from CD, but it only takes a minute or less so it is hardly a burden. I have not found any rubber stamp mode so you need to manually mirror-image the drawing (a single click in LW). AND, no shoulders. However, the test stamp I made works perfectly so I think shoulders may be overrated.

The chiller (5200) and dinky aquarium-style air assist pump have been totally adequate so far. The exhaust fan is noisy, but now it’s outside, so not much of an issue. The overall size (of the cabinet) relative to the bed is HUGE, compared the Epilog

I wish the manual had highlighted one critical section. To actually send a job to the laser, get your drawing into LW (via import or done in LW), then click “download” button (in lower right section of LW screen). Then use the keypad to position and start it. (LW also lets you completely control the laser and run the job directly, without using the keypad. But, it is hard to see into the laser if you are seated at the computer and not standing at the laser!)

Also be aware that there is no magnetic switch on the lid for safety. It lases away happily even with the lid up! Be careful!

Lastly, I have to say the build quality looks very high and it is STURDY.

I have run into a major design fault in the Shenhui 690. The position of the exhaust pipe (flexible 6") conflicts with the chain that drives the table height. If you lower the table, the chain rubs against the plastic ducting. When I pointed this out to the salesman (John Wang), he replied, "yes,we know the smoke pipe problem." When I asked what I can do about it, he said, "make a short stick support or make a line to hung." I pointed out that if you do that (and its awkward to do) and raise the table, the "stick" is no longer high enough to stop the rubbing. If you lower the table it breaks the exhuast off. He then said, " bigger machine better such as 1290."

I cannot recommend this machine if you need to engrave tall things.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by john banks

~~~~ path/file error unless you run X5 as administrator or alternatively change the permissions on the Program Files (x86)\Corel\CorelDRAW Graphics Suite X5 folder to full control..

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THANK YOU!!!! I was pulling hair until I found this simple fix. TY TY TY!!

Make sure to NOT use a water pressure sensor. You need to use a water flow sensor. Don't use the flow thru style that looks like a pipe with reed switch glued to the side... Use the red&brass unit. If it fails... It fails in the off mode.

The chiller has a built-in version of the same flow sensor... Smaller, but works great. If you have a chiller with interlock wires, USE IT!!! Rabbit Laser USA has schematics of how o interlock the safety wires to the laser power supply. That set of schematics is priceless to anybody with a Chinese laser machine.

Ray Scott

Rabbit Laser USA has has a great tutorial for doing the laser beam alignment. If you have a better method... We would love to see it.


Ray Scott

I am pretty sure the premium lenses are made in Singapore. Sorry, I just wouldn't trust the general --- from eBay... Unless you have established trust with the seller.

Ray Scott

Hi Ray, My laser just quit working, everything OK, but no fire in laser tube, fairly new...plenty of water. I have the red and brass flow sensor. I thought maybe it quit working and shut off the firing...... Would it be logical that if it was the problem, that by bypassing it...(connecting the two wires leading into it) the laser would fire..... (it doesn't by the way)...but I'm wondering if once it shuts down.... if there would be something else I would need to do to get it working again...I have a 50 watt chinese laser, the one that starts with an S he he.

Jeffrey, you already have a thread started about this issue, several people have replied. You should be following up in that thread. Also, more details about the machine, software and main board that you are using would be helpful. Don't make a game of it. There are many people here that will do their best to help you.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-Chinese-Laser

Hello, does anyone on this thread own a Nice-Cut laser. I have had mine 5 months. I am just beginning an at a hobby rate. I plan to retire soon and use it more. I am having difficulty with the limit switch. it is an optic switch.Attachment 314568 ,the solder is lifted. I will put fresh on, but what if that does not work. Does any one know where to buy the complete circuit board. I really do not wish to learn how to etch circuit boards. I also want a mentor in learning to engrave. I turn ink pens and what to engrave per customer wishes. I also want to engrave on wine bottles, i have the rotary with this. it is a 16x16 work surface. it uses laser draw and i use corel draw x6

Thanks

Roy

Roy start a new thread this is old and a different subject no one will see this here.

I have a 6040 from NiceCut. You can get limit switches anywhere...AliBaba
I even have extras if you need it still.

josephshawa@gmail.com