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I have most of the original Woodworker magazines (loose and/or in bound annuals, the annuals do not include the advertisements), and enjoy them immensely. So I will not be picking up the LAP...

I do not use any chemicals, danger of hydrogen embrittlement with spring steel (if you do use chemicals, leave saw blade out in the sun for a few days to allow the hydrogen to escape). Try a pair of...

Citric Acid is probably better than vinegar, works quicker. As you are only removing SURFACE rust, leave them in a hot solution for 15 minutes, take them out and scrub with a stiff toothbrush or...

A Klingspor sanding block - Fine - will get rid of the minimal rust, use a lubricant like WD40.

If you want shiny, follow that with Autosol rubbed on with scrunched aluminium foil, wipe off the...

The "secret" is "don't miss any steps" and "effort". My steps - wipe plate down with mineral spirits and paper thoroughly between each step, the lubricant I use is WD40 because I have lots of it:
1....

I cannot find the book mentioned, I think you mean a DVD. THe DVD is useful, but could be much better. I make back saws, mainly for the fun of it (I give them away mostly as I already have a full...

The # 10 is a Last Makers Rasp - 10" Narrow Point Smooth. These are the same as Pattern Makers Rasps - except for the uncut edges (as you observed). In the glory days Nicholson had a total of 16 Last...

I successfully (so far) use Titebond Liquid HG for rubbed joints. Put bottle in hot water for a while, brush it on generously and rub until grabs. I only do this for two board glue up. I use clamps...

The tip for keeping the edge off the coarse abrasive is a great tip to avoid rounding over during coarse flattening. You can also use a Dremel with a grinding wheel to reduce the amount of steel to...

You do have a saw filing vise I trust, otherwise check out the LN UTube videos. You may also find the Paul Sellers vidoes on UTube helpful. Get good lighting, you probably will not need magnification...

Welcome Back Stephen, good to see you posting again.
Cheers
Peter

I do check used old saw files, and frequently the few inches near the handle are still ok, even if the rest is worn down. Sometimes one edge is unused. However sharpening saw files is not worth the...

Just a note, the advice is for using a mallet; if paring I use one hand on the blade, and one on the handle and push with my body. Gives good control.

You have it pretty shiny, good job. I always make saw plate as shiny as I can (well not on 200 year old saws), because the reflection in the plate makes sawing straight so much easier, especially for...

You can always cut down a longer saw. This started life as a 1950/60s Great Neck 26" 8 ppi xcut saw with a plastic handle; with a nasty kink and rusty, also well overset, so with a few broken teeth...

I doubt this saw is rare or valuable. If mine, I would clean the blade and sharpen it. I might not use it as I already have an adequate arsenal of saws. Removing the handle is a vexed question with...

The struck mark on the plate is dated at c 1870 by Simon Barley, remember split nuts persisted in the UK well into the 20th century. The Barley book (I recommend it) is reviewed here...

I belong to a woodworkers association that has an excellent workshop, with quality large power tools. In my garage I have a pretty ordinary drill press that gets a lot of use, and a vintage scroll...

Simon Barley in "British Saws and Sawmakers from 1660" lists two Richardson saw makers in London (may be related, Simon indicates lack of documentation on the makers) who worked from 1855-1895. Can...

An inexpensive 1/8" chisel could be made by grinding the teeth off a small worn out vintage saw file (god knows what the steel is in modern sw files). Probably only need to grind it back an inch. The...

The carbide spade bits are fantastic, the only way to travel. Stewie Simpson worked out the best way to do this:
1. Tune up your drill press
2. Drill 7/32" holes through the handle
3. Use a 1/2"...

Actually, worn down rasps sharpen quite well in acid (if teeth are still there). Because the teeth are flatter in profile, the rasp becomes smoother than when new, and fairly sharp on the leading...

What do you mean by stain?

Backsaw.net is the best place to ask questions 'bout English saw history. Simon Barley hangs out there for example. Check out...

A strong switchable magnet may temporarily change the shape of thin blades like a Stanley, a bit of checking the magnet's effect might be useful before doing too much work.