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The 205 is a little amber compared to 207. I noticed that the end of the container was more amber than the beginning of it but am not sure if that would be likely to happen with the 205. I've used...

Thanks, folks.

Anyone have experience using yellow (or rainbow) poplar a/k/a tulip for a table or desk surface? I've looked up the janka hardness rating, and the stuff sounds a little prone to denting, which is not...

If the void is much more than 1/4 inch deep, the more than one pour is best. The curing process is exothermic, i.e. it creates heat, and the epoxy can expand. If your pour is too thick, then it'll...

I used West System. They have a super clear resin, the 207, if I remember correctly, and their standard resin, which is someat amber, the 205. I used tape underneath or on the sides to build forms...

I used it on a large maple table over the summer to keep it light. I had quite a few problems with application, but some of that was user error. Ultimately, got a good brush (can't stress that...

Just to add a product experience that is relevant. I found a mix-and-match approach worked well with a dining table--wipe a little, brush, finish with a wipe. That said, P&L 38, even many months...

John,

This is beautiful. Your troubles remind me of the challenges I had with my maple slab and P&L 38. I wiped, sanded, brushed, sanded, and eventually thinned with a brush and leveled a little...

Very tastefully done. Nice aesthetics.

I like the accent on the end grain with the texture that you preserved.

Thanks, guys. Much appreciated. Been an interesting project, and I'm really happy with it. Kent's been a great resource, as have many others here. It would not have gotten across the finish line...

David, does that leave squiggles or does the wax prevent that? Does the buffing completely remove the wax or is that then part of the maintenance drill going forward? Also, Mirka pads, are they any...

Thanks. It was all "finishing" and no carpentry. Total of three cuts for the whole thing, which is good because I don't have much in the way of carpentry skills. But this was interesting...

Thanks, Prashun. I didn't try that, but that would've been a good idea. It's for the table that I just completed. I was itchy for a quick answer and went with the first suggestion of lacquer...

Yonak, Pics, rather than just links, should be up and ready now. Sorry about that. I was having some internet issues last night. Thanks, Andrew

Here are some remaining pics.

Made a form with epoxy:
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Worked the edge to get firm wood (there was some sponginess due to spalting):
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Orange peel along the way:
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Thanks, will revise now. My internet was being funky last night. Andrew

I have done this successfully. In one spot it darkened the wood (the wood was soft due to spalting), while it didn't do that in other areas. 12 hours isn't a full cure on epoxy; I do not know...

Just finished my first project. Edited this to add pics in addition to links (internet wasn't working well the first go-round), but had to post some pics in a second post due to certain SMC limits. ...

Could've, yes. I bought the legs and read "steel" but didn't digest the word "stainless" wasn't there. Anything I should know about using a spray lacquer for this application? Any favorites for...

I've got some raw steel polished to be distressed; these are legs for a table. I want to prevent oxidation. What's easy and effective for someone without a spray gun--and what'll cure and be usable...

Just a short update. I let the varnish cure a while and then did a light wet sand with very fine paper (P2500, P3000, P5000, all 3M Trizact); went light on the paper because I didn't have much...

Thanks. In general, I've found that website to be very helpful. I ended up waiting--but I also used a dehumidifier for a week on loan from a friend. That upped the temp, dried the air, and added...

Yes, it'd be great to hear how you finished it. Very beautiful wood and table.

Yes, traditional oil based varnish. Gotcha; thanks. That's what I thought; I appreciate the confirmation.