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    Here's one I built for my 1014VS. Box beam of...

    Here's one I built for my 1014VS. Box beam of 2x12 material, sand filled. Base of tripled 2x4s. wieght about 220 + lathe. Some things I'd do differently if I redid it, mostly having to do with...
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    http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageA...

    http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6944

    Just bought one yesterday, but haven't mounted it yet, so can't vouch for it. But HW hasn't let me down yet.
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    Handtool cabinet design questions

    I am planning to build a wall-hung handtool cabinet.While playing around with tool layouts on pegboard mockups, I am thinking about construction details, and hope experienced folks here can help if I...
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    Very true. However, at the same time, you are...

    Very true. However, at the same time, you are widening the mouth, which is probably not what you want to do. Most BU planes have mouth adjustments that are CONSIDERABLY easier than adjusting the...
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    True for freehand planing, but without some kind...

    True for freehand planing, but without some kind of sled to hold your plane at an angle relative to its direction of travel, this solution won't work with a shooting board. (Despite what is often...
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    Orientation of the wear bevel, not its size

    Tim, I share your apparent skepticism here, but wonder if it's how he problem is expressed. It is obvious to me (which I will admit sometimes translates to "I have missed something") that the wood...
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    Tim, one addendum to Robert's note: If the reason...

    Tim, one addendum to Robert's note: If the reason for going to the thicker iron is stiffness and mass, you can achieve that with an after-market chipbreaker. I have been very pleased with the result...
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    Jeff, I second this comment. Pine is not a very...

    Jeff, I second this comment. Pine is not a very good wood to learn on. It seems counterintuitive at first that a softer wood would require a sharper chisel. But I'm not sure it is softness so much as...
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    Very nice looking work, Patrick. And I don't just...

    Very nice looking work, Patrick. And I don't just mean "for a newbie".


    Can you elaborate on what this is? I think of MDF as a good substrate for veneer where it is not load-bearing. But I fear...
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    I've found that to be a good way to remove the...

    I've found that to be a good way to remove the shellac to start over and I use essentially the same thing to pad on new shellac, but I have not had luck using that to "even out" a finish. I end up...
  11. Wilbur, could you tell me what problems those...

    Wilbur, could you tell me what problems those are, or point me to some discussion. I was thinking of getting a Japanwoodworker or Hida "store brand" chisel to try out a Japanese chisel. To my mind...
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    Very much so. You are a talented instructional...

    Very much so. You are a talented instructional writer as well as woodworker. I hope you will do this again.
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    I don't know. I agree they are nice looking....

    I don't know. I agree they are nice looking. Couldn't find it on a quick check, although I thought he had a page about woods available. But this might have been a special order with customer-supplied...
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    Like these?...

    Like these?
    http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/tools/images/drawborepins2.jpg

    Or are they made from a drift pin? I don't know. Could contact Blue Spruce; these are special order. Or contact our...
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    Or his DVD on the subject for a whopping $10 or...

    Or his DVD on the subject for a whopping $10 or so. For some reason (probably a learning style thing) that "clicked" for me more than the write-up, although the content is essentially the same.
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    Disclaimer: shellac is my "go-to" finish. But...

    Disclaimer: shellac is my "go-to" finish.

    But even with that bias, I have to ask "why?" If you used varnish (not an oil), shouldn't the finish stop outgassing after a few days or weeks? Now, if...
  17. You need a known right angle -- a square that you...

    You need a known right angle -- a square that you know is square, or a board cut perfectly square. You are going to mark on these, so if it is a square, you might want to put masking tape on the...
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    From their online catalog:

    From their online catalog:
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    Joel, my #5 is corrugated and my #8 is not. I'm...

    Joel, my #5 is corrugated and my #8 is not. I'm ambivalent about the corrugation. Unless you are going to be edge jointing veneer, I don't think the corrugations will be a problem in use. I've never...
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    Beautiful plane, Chuck! Frankly, I have never...

    Beautiful plane, Chuck! Frankly, I have never thought of ipe as a particularly attractive wood. Maybe I need to change how I view it, because it sure looks nice in this photo. How did you finish it,...
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    Thanks, Steve. It is great to get a voice of LOTS...

    Thanks, Steve. It is great to get a voice of LOTS of experience! On your site, you mention gluing up the planes with Gorilla glue. Above you recommend epoxy or TB3. Have you changed? I've never heard...
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    That's a nice solution. Does the forum software...

    That's a nice solution. Does the forum software do that automatically for you or is it up to the posters or moderators? And if so, is it vBulletin?

    I'm used to usenet, where a single post can be...
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    Any way to merge these threads?

    This got double-posted in the neander and general ww forums. That seems appropriate, since both would be interested. But it would be nice if the threads could be merged so that answers originating in...
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    Ipe for resoling wooden plane?

    I read Bob Smalser's excellent write-up on rehabbing wooden planes here Now I'm inspired to see if my old transitional smoother and woodie jointer can do more than collect dust.

    I have a little...
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    What Steve said. I had a similar experience --...

    What Steve said. I had a similar experience -- the first board I send through (luckily through a bandsaw, not a table saw) had a cutoff that you could almost use as a shepherd's crook. (okay, so I...
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