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  1. Replies
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    (BC)I give the screw 1:1 or more leverage but...

    (BC)I give the screw 1:1 or more leverage but scale it to the length of the cap, usually by eye.
    For example (front to pivot : pivot to screw), 5/8":3/4", 7/8":7/8", 1":1.5" (2), 1.25":2".
    (A)I...
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    50° (or 55, I don't remember) with a D2 blade. ...

    50° (or 55, I don't remember) with a D2 blade.

    328714
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    3,773

    I'll wait to see if a problem develops; the...

    I'll wait to see if a problem develops; the bottom is coated with epoxy, which seems to be pretty durable (no detectable wear so far).
  4. Replies
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    I'm happy with how it works. It is pretty much an...

    I'm happy with how it works. It is pretty much an single iron (3/16") infill bedded on 3/8" aluminum.
    You could use wood instead of brass and put the grain vertical (ala boxing). Some Japanese...
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    3,773

    Brass and epoxy work fine for me

    Here is a brass insert I added to a transitional two years ago, it has gotten a fair bit of use lately, no problems even though the wood has expanded such that the body is wider than the insert (the...
  6. Yeah, stainless tends to be a PITA. I've built...

    Yeah, stainless tends to be a PITA. I've built several infills in SS and have another one in process. I [usually] use scrap metals for my planes and SS is all over place in regards to malleability,...
  7. I've looked and don't know of any books on...

    I've looked and don't know of any books on construction, however, there are many great web pages that go into quite a bit of detail. Take a look at Bill Carters web site:...
  8. Here is a photo of the front plate disassembled...

    Here is a photo of the front plate disassembled (I needed to get it apart to decrust it). The pins you missing one of are pointy studs with ridges down half their length that bite into the body as...
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    On mine, I very carefully ground down the piened...

    On mine, I very carefully ground down the piened head (on the inside of the crank arm) until it was pretty thin and then drove it out with a small pin punch. Then i drilled (you need a lathe for this...
  10. It is a truly annoying problem! You probably have...

    It is a truly annoying problem! You probably have an older(?) 40 - look at others and you'll notice the caps have nibs above and below where the rod fits, preventing slippage. Yours, like mine, is...
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    I like to use cold blue (Birchwood casey Super...

    I like to use cold blue (Birchwood casey Super Blue in my case) if I have a nice surface to put it on. Old castings don't looks so good unless cleaned up. Here are some planes, all blued as the only...
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    You might be interested in this post from Konrad...

    You might be interested in this post from Konrad Sauer, about building identical looking bullnoses from rough castings:
    http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com/2012_12_01_archive.html
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    I use vinegar to remove the scale from hot rolled...

    I use vinegar to remove the scale from hot rolled mild steel, followed by a knotted wire wheel.
  14. Replies
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    I like "clothes iron" totes, angled between 40° &...

    I like "clothes iron" totes, angled between 40° & 45°, which is way more laid down than Stanley. It seems much more ergonomic for the way I use a plane. I also like them about 1 1/4" thick with a...
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    I really like your idea of brass and wood for the...

    I really like your idea of brass and wood for the lever cap and think it would work very well. Glue alone would also probably be just fine, just be careful if you glue and then shape [with power...
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    I agree with the responses I've read but I'll...

    I agree with the responses I've read but I'll reply anyway.
    I use 3/16" (basically 5mm) cross pins for 2" irons often, never had a problem. I do use O-1 steel as that what I can get in drill rod...
  17. Not a whole lot - I think I was able to get a...

    Not a whole lot - I think I was able to get a quarter cup of thinned varnish into my wooden smoother (using a vacuum).
  18. First of all, I wouldn't call it a rational thing...

    First of all, I wouldn't call it a rational thing to do but the results are nice, a short #3 (although there is room for a 2" blade), I had all the parts sitting around and I did it on a lark.

    I...
  19. The casting is decent but at 45° and no chip...

    The casting is decent but at 45° and no chip breaker, tear out tends to be a problem. I went crazy and grafted on a Stanley frog (steepened the angle to 47.5°) and it works quite well.
    254603
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    Thanks! Yes, I built them. I bend the back by...

    Thanks! Yes, I built them. I bend the back by pressing a strip of metal into a vee block then hammering it over a steel rod clamped in a vise (I don't have a metal bender). I would consider Bill...
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    I hope I'm not hijacking Wayne's wonderful plane....

    I hope I'm not hijacking Wayne's wonderful plane.
    I like small (1" or so wide) miter planes as block planes, champfering edges, touch up smoothing (today I did some smoothing on a 12"+ wide board...
  22. Replies
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    I'm happy with how it works :) Shaving are...

    I'm happy with how it works :)
    Shaving are removed easily, haven't had any problems.
    http://zkprojectnotebook.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/eruption1.jpg?w=600
  23. Replies
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    Thanks! The brass screw on the front is sort of...

    Thanks! The brass screw on the front is sort of deceptive, it is a strike button that also looks like it connects the sole. It doesn't. It is a bolt from a toilet tank, which I find hilarious. The...
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    Yes - one is stainless steel with a glued up...

    Yes - one is stainless steel with a glued up Jatoba infill, the other was carved from a block of pear and has metal internals (the wood is basically a shell).
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    Here are two totes I find quite comfortable. The...

    Here are two totes I find quite comfortable. The reasons are: wider (1 1/4") and rounder, sloped more forward than many planes (closer to a dovetail saw) and a "wasp waist" for my pinkie (your grip...
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