It's most commonly retailed as "roasted" maple - you could probably google up something inder that term. And I guess a couple other species are also offrered "roasted." Frankly, I don't know what...
Type: Posts; User: Mike Parzych; Keyword(s):
It's most commonly retailed as "roasted" maple - you could probably google up something inder that term. And I guess a couple other species are also offrered "roasted." Frankly, I don't know what...
Probablt the best all around source:
http://www.youngbloodlumber.com/
Prices are higher than the BORGs, but so is the quality. Plus they have the most cmplete selection of spieces and...
One thing to consider though, is that oak is stiffer and can carry more weight than poplar before sagging. Here's a link that'll tell you if there will be sag, given the dimensions of the shelves,...
Kreg gives the most bang for the buck of just about any woodworking accesory tool.
I've had one about 5 years too. Dead on set-up out of the box, and I've never had to touch the tables since. Knife changes are a breeze. I got a set of Freud knives for about $18 this year.
I'm not a fan of really ornate pieces - I call it "Victorian brothel" furniture. But many people like it, and their opinion is as valid as mine.
Yeah - I'd like more modern design stuff, and...
I think lasers are only useful for apppealing to to weekend carpenter/fix-it type people who think it provides some sort of accuracy. I didn't even bother installing the laser on my mitre saw.
I...
Here's another I just saw reposted on craigslist. I've bought from him before and it was good price, good material. He's in New Brighton.
That thread sums it up. Youngblood is my main sources for run of the mill stuff. Being able to pick out your boards is really quite valuable in minimizing waste.
But keep an eye on the...
As you're unstacking it, evidence of powder post beetles would be apparent - little piles of "sawdust."
But that's the kind of deal you can't go wrong on. I'd do it in a minute. A little heavy...
Got a question for you folks in the northwest. I've gotten some quilted maple from Woodbay Co. on eBay, as they're one of the few with decent prices. Are there any suppliers online whom I could get...
Don't over-tighten the clamps either. You might have squeezed too much glue out of the joint area for it to hold.
The only real way to evaluate prices is to compare them ONLY within your local area, since they're so relative in regards to your location in the country. $2 wood 400 miles away ain't really $2...
I just got done building 4 shelves for someone with an interior brick wall, and she wanted a "clean" look.
I built them in two pieces. First was a piece of 1.75" square oak stock. I then put it...
Heh....I think the real "mediocre" lumber is what you find being retailed. The truely outstanding stuff is being skimmed off far before the wood store.
Right now I've got 2 seven foot cherry...
If I was twenty years younger I'd be thinking the same way. Well, I AM thinking the same way, but I've reached that point where my ideas exceed my physical capabilities.
One thing to consider....
It finishes real well. Easy to get a smooth finish. I've put BLO on it first usually, to add some color.
Hardwood radiator enclosures are quite common in areas where radiator heat still exists in most houses, such as my area. One of the key factors in stability is the use of 99% heat reflective foil...
Definitely worth sawing up. Local pricing may vary, but around here it's about 40 cents a bf for sawing. And you'll have the option of what thicknesses he saws. I'd kill for a walnut log that size!
I just had to do this with some 1/2" cherry boards I put out on the lawn to redden them. Forgot about them and they were out there all night and bowed.
Wet the concave side and put that side...
I've found that it's quite easy to plane, despite the "lace," with no tearout. And it's pretty stable in terms of not warping after planing. I think Titebond would work well enough. To keep it...
The way I raed your question, you were asking about tapering in relation to jointing the face of a board. One of the primary causes is always starting with the same end of the board. Let's say you...
From what I've seen, mahogany is generally quite true to nominal thickness, and being a very stable wood, rough sawn lumber is quite flat and wouldn't require much (if any) planing to get 2 smooth...
Just look out for anything cut from the very center of the tree - that'll tend to "move" more than wood from further out in the trunk. The worst stuff us 2" x 2" pine. Break open a bundle of them...
One of the primary considerations for a solid wood door is the exposure of the entryway. Full southern exposure is the worst since the sun will cause problems, or at lest high maintenance, for just...