my take on 12" miter saw blades is this: you really need to go with a full kerf blade because this implies a thicker blade plate...thin kerfs will flex on such a large diameter blade and make fine...
Type: Posts; User: Michael Pyron; Keyword(s):
my take on 12" miter saw blades is this: you really need to go with a full kerf blade because this implies a thicker blade plate...thin kerfs will flex on such a large diameter blade and make fine...
can you? sure...at least try to that is.
I've routed aluminum before to install magnetic locks in doors/jambs...the doors were aluminum clad wood...was very messy and ate up bits real...
I don't sell the junk...am in no way affiliated to any great degree with anybody who does (e.g. I deal with salesman who sell the stuff along with a lot of other brands).
yeah, Baldwin has gone...
the most straightforward solution is to replace the driver (available as a kit with an O-ring)...what is really at fault is the O-ring...you didn't by any chance at some point use 5 in 1 oil did you?...
I'll be polite and just say this: Emtek is complete junk...I install the *edited* all the time for people who want looks but won't pay for quality...
that being said, most of the "boutique"...
my calculations say that's a 40.625" radius...
I use a router for that type of work held in a sled and pivoting from a simple nail
in fact, I just made a cabinet with an arched top with a...
I feel for you...been a carpenter for over 30 years and at some point recently I had to inform myself at what a moron I am for having not worn knee pads since the beginning.
anyway, long story...
as noted, it's subjective...
since you don't provide any pics of the woods it is rather difficult to make any suggestions...non figured Koa can be rather bland and unexciting...might as well save...
point taken and I obviously forgot to mention I have some very old blades that are really short that I use for this task (never seen any like them in the stores and they came with the sawzall I got...
???
most every single plastic electrical box I've seen is fastened to the stud with 2 nails that are pre-attached to the box...what I do to remove them with sheetrock present is to first pry it...
I'm 55 and started having knee issues a few years ago...I found that wearing a compression brace on both knees works pretty well, and have also found I must wear knee pads anytime I find myself...
NO
the biggest issue is getting a totally square cut...I've found this to be basically impossible with a track saw...
second issue is getting a totally straight cut (yeah, I know "track saw"...
I'm going to have to agree with this sentiment...
I would advise backing up all important information to an external drive, then doing a full clean install of the OS and everything else...
...
the CRB-7 does have an edge guide accessory but it only allows for 7 1/2" from the edge...too boot using an edge guide is a tricky thing as any slip and things go FUBAR real quickly (don't ask me how...
I would be thinking along the lines of a Festool router using their track system for that many sheets.
1 3/4" poplar...issues are relative, yes a bit of force required for initial rips and a fair amount more when using a feather board for final dimensions.
again, a very nice final edge requiring no...
ermmm...WRONG
the Marples blade was put on a SawStop...yesterday it got tripped (not by me) and of course the blade (only 1 week old) was toasted...the unit was replaced and the blade supplied to...
it's a marginal cheap blade...long story short I pulled one off of a coworker's table saw and replaced it with an Irwin Marple's 50 tooth combo blade and the difference was astounding...I mean trying...
I prefer 1/4" plywood because it's easier to sand to final template shape...it's very rare that I will go for MDF as I find it far more time consuming to get things just right. Yep, there can be...
a 60* angle can easily be cut on an ancient Makita LS1211...miters to 60 both directions...you can also adjust the tilting to left bevel (motor up in the air) to 60*...
I think a safer way to make...
The real problem is the consumer base for tools these days.
Weekend warriors have taken over the market, and since they typically use a tool(s) for just one project they have no clue/worry about...
be aware that this brand of hardware is intended to have blocking behind the sheetrock...if you use a ledgerboard you have the option of very carefully removing sheetrock and adding blocking...
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little tiny nails/screws...that's what I used once a long time ago when dealing with velcro to wood...this was a solution derived after the adhesive had failed on the wood yet was still on the pedal
those U shaped tracks are very noisy and kind of trashy IMHO...I installed 3 of them in a house once as was VERY unimpressed with their performance
also, be aware, I am making the assumption that...
I, and the majority of painters I deal with, use the auto body version...I prefer the one with red hardener as it's far easier to see by resultant color what the mix is...too much and it hardens too...