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You guys realize that present day HVLP units are down to 3% -7% overspray. Right?

Is this a conversion gun or straight up HVLP dedicated system? Anything over 10psi is not true HVLP.
The 1.5mm needle set (or closest) is what you should use for any furniture finish.

If you are going to use a water borne top coat, you must use de-waxed shellac as the sealer. Water borne will not stick to regular shellac. And, in my almost 30 year custom cabinet and furniture...

I would never put any oil or certainly not silicone anywhere near a finishing gun. Mineral oil is the only lubricant I use. (Baby oil) Use it on the needle every 3rd time you clean and on all the...

A few hours in direct sunlight will kick start the color change/aging process. Cherry changes quick.

Make sure to stir and not shake lacquer as it can create and hold onto bubbles which then end up on the product.

I would agree that the system you have is more than enough to do the finishing you need to do, I would not get rid of it. And yes you can add the PPS system to it and I would.
HVLP is High Volume...

Will,

The advantage of HVLP over a compressed air system is overspray. With conventional compressed air you will get about 30% overspray with HVLP it's down to about 5%. This repesents a huge...

The 5500 is rated at 160 secs viscosity. In the kit is a viscosity cup which you will use to measure how thick the fluid is. If it drains from the cup in less than 160 seconds it will spray. That...

In between coats sand with 180 and 220 if solvent based material and up to 320 if waterborne.
I have always sprayed gloss poly and then rubbed it out to the sheen the customer ordered based on my...

I would have sprayed shellac and sanded it before I finished reading all these responses.
In a production situation it probably wouldn't get any finish at all, past where you can see.
If it's a one...

Soy Gel makes a product called Kleen Again which an excellent gun cleaner. About $18 quart.

Lacquer is actually a preferred finish for kitchen cabinetry. Solid color lacquer is the right material to use for a painted look. Latex paint is never an acceptable finish for furniture or...

Go with HVLP. Try the 3900 model at big blue box store.

Spraying with HVLP is the right way to paint cabinetry and latex is never an acceptable finish for any furniture or cabinetry. Oil base paint is fine but I would use a waterbourne poly tinted...

I spray with HVLP using shellac and waterbourne finishes. Never an issue.

Nick,

I'll be an advocate for HVLP. It's what I've sprayed with for about 15 years.

It will provide clean, dry air and a nice soft application of material that is easy to control. The problem...

Hi Scott,

HVLP does nothing to remove bubbles if someone has shaken the gun with finish in it.

Alan,

Is it possible that the finish was shaken? If you shake a waterbourne finish or latex paint the bubbles stay in it all the way to the project.

Scott,

Yes I do use the appropriate finish for the job at hand. "Exclusively" was the wrong word because I do still use solvent based materials fairly often.

But thanks for proving my point...

My comments are made with the experience of someone who has earned a living building cabinets and furniture for many years. I have used 5 main finishes during that time. Lacquer, poly, shellac, oil...

I notice that the "scientists" that are usually here on this forum aren't answering your inquiry.

I agree that most "finishers" make a big deal out of finishing, but I personally have had a 25+...

For things that are going to be touched all the time. Dining tables, jewelery boxes, etc I like a wax finish. It makes it look warmer, feel better and helps resist moisture. The thought that it just...

I always fill the cup before I walk away. Less air, less drying. Usually a booger of finish will end up dried on the nozzle, I always scrape that off with my index finigernail before I attempt to...

It's hard to screw up shellac and wax. Often on something small, like a box, I will apply an oil finish by hand.