47 and just found a new shop cat.
Type: Posts; User: Mateo Panzica; Keyword(s):
47 and just found a new shop cat.
Hey, Derek.
The piece was shaped before it was assembled. The dovetails are at a compound angle, but straight on the inside, and only curved on the outside. The interior of the box is a...
I had to make all sorts of compound joints when I timber framed... It required lots of "mathifying". For a furniture scale piece, I just make full scale drawings. You'll end up with a map for all...
...When you stop explaining, to folks that you meet, what you do.
I make and sell fancy infill planes. I finish my soles with 220 on a granite plate. The rest of my planes are shiny, but the sole... ah, it's a working surface. It just needs to be "flat". One...
17.5 is the number you settle on when you don't see a clear benefit to a 15 or 20 degree bed. I wanted to allow the user to have a low angle cut, but easily micro-bevel to a steeper angle.
As a...
It is... but it functions more like a thumb hook than a knob.
This plane has a 8 1/8'' sole. The 1 11/16'' blade is honed at 25 degrees and bedded at 17.5 degrees. I used O1 instead of A2 steel because of the steeper bevel. I feared that A2 would be prone...
For complex glue-ups, I put on Led Zeppelin's "In My Time of Dying". At something like 12 minutes, it gives you a good sense of where you are on your open time... much better than keeping an eye on...
Hey, Phillip.
I left Highcountry in 2012.. er, maybe 2011. I recognized the rack of orphan timbers. Funny, how a place can get etched in your brain. I remember that laminated oak when I was...
Are you working at Highcountry Timberframe by chance? I think that I recognize the shop.
As a former timber framer and someone who has built my fair share of monster, slab tables.... I offer 2 words. Scrub Plane.
Great for bent lamination with a long open time... just be darn sure to clean your clamps before that stuff sets.
I started using Japanese, steel hammers during my timber framing days. I will never go back to mallets. I found them to be much easier on my body. They might mush up your chisel handles a bit......
There really aren't any rules of thumb here... but, if you get something way out of wack, it could get funky.
For what it's worth, this is what I do:
I make the value of A to be 2 1/2 - 3 degrees...
I heat treat and temper my own blades. I've got a small knife maker's oven. They're a godsend.
The sole is 8 1/4'' and the blade is 1 7/8'' wide. I use 3/16'' thick A2 steel to make my blades.
This one is made with Stainless, Bronze, and Ebony. If I hadn't made the adjuster, I'd probably be a bit confused at what I was looking at... so, let me explain.
The top screw applies downward...
The body is pieced together from flat stock... cutting, milling, drilling, tapping. Milling from a solid brass ingot would be pricey. You'd also have to contend with a lot of issues due to stress...
Picture of the sole and ramp. The blade actually rides on a stainless steel pin that is set in the brass ramp. I find that this "anvil" design ensures that the pressure from the levercap will be...
The wood is Bubinga (ammonia fumed for a bit of darkening). The screw on top is to ensure that the blade can't accidentally slip through the mouth when the lever cap is loose. Sharp steel +...
I recently finished this smoother, and I rather like it. The 1 15/16'' blade is bedded at 50 degrees. The sole is 9'' long. The bun is a bit of a departure from tradition. It's quite comfortable,...
USPS will ship just about anything. It doesn't have to be in a cardboard box. I ship all my slicks in fitted, simple (and very strong) wooden boxes.
I used long Wood Owl auger bits extensively when I was timber framing. They were vastly superior to any other brand that we used.
I haven't had a weigh in, yet. I'd be surprised if it hit 6 Lbs.