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Hmmmmmmmm..................would never have even given that a thought. Good idea, thanks.

Thanks for your thoughts. Believe, me if I could have afforded a 20" and the paper for it, I'd have had one. Extremely useful tool. But that's all history. Hadn't thought about the "rpm"...

I'm a retired custom furniture builder. One of the "must haves" in a furniture builder's shop is a 12" vertical sanding disc. I now make knives and most knife makers use either a 2x72" belt grinder...

I have an angle grinder, but I've already got all the bark off the stump. A chainsaw blade would be too harsh at this point. I'm down to spoke shave level work.

I'm logged in, but can't see any of your pictures.

Oh, and I've got a 50# Vulcan for an anvil.....................it doesn't ring that loud.

Yup, so "down to the final stage" point I started using my flat and concave spoke shaves. They seen to be working very well where I had sanded most of the stringy stuff off. I'll get some 36 grit...

Chainsaw would be too harsh a cut at this point. I'm down to the hand planing stage. But thanks for the suggestion.

I tried the twisted wire cup on my r-angle grinder but it had little or no effect. Hadn't thought about the disc form of wire brush. That might do it. Thanks.

Good suggestion...........but I'm far to cheap to waste money on something I'll only use once. I'll make a really good one when I get my forge up and running. The sander is going to work great, I...

I used a single bladed axe and engineers hammer to get the bark off. Then I was left with a lot of stringy/punky stuff that was in-between the bark and good wood. I was doing the "draw knife" thing...

Indeed. You are correct, but I've only recently taken up the hobby and am just getting started. Not hard to make.........but don't have a forge yet or I'd make one. I did find just a few minutes...

I'm needing a finer cut than that at this point. But thanks.

I've recently taken up blacksmithing and have cut an Oak stump for my anvil. I don't own a draw knife (what kind of woodworker doesn't own a draw knife!:rolleyes: ) but used a machete to cut the...

Yup, just looked that up.

Had my Friday morning breakfast where a bunch of us woodworkers from furniture makers to turners, carvers and veneer artists sit and chew the fat. Took the hefty chunk...

That's pretty much in the neighborhood of what the dealers have responded with since I started searching this evening. I've gotten everything from $115 to $145. Thanks.

I have a piece of Cocobolo that has been heavily coated in wax for 25+ years. It measures 8 1/2"x8 1/2"x2 3/4". It's very straight grained and would make a really nice bowl. One of the guys in the...

Jeff, I'm obviously not Jesse, but I'm sure the drag from the Shelix head is laboring the belt. I can't take more than 1/32" off per pass. I'm okay with that, but not okay with the melting belt...

Bought the machine (new) in December. Installed a Shelix head. Have run less than 200 square surface feet of material through it. Bearings spin like brand new ones. So I highly doubt the bearings...

I'm going to tear into it today to try and figure it out. Have to admit, though, I'm tempted to take it to the service center and just have them install the new belt just so I know it's done...

Are you using the original 3-knife head or Shelix?

Head is turning freely. I'm using the Shelix head so I don't think we are talking apples and apples.

It's a brand new planer...............so I'm assuming the pulley is on correctly.

Er, uh, bad news. Just installed the belt. Was careful to make certain all the ribs were lined up and all ran smoothly. Ran the planer for about 15 minutes..........never taking more than 1/32"...

I burned mine a couple of days ago. I also have a Shelix cutter head. I think it was definitely my fault................I just plain took too big a bite. The belt literally melted. Contacted...

I've used Simple Green on my saw blades and router bits for years. No problems to date.