Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 30 of 30

Thread: Plane cabinet

  1. #16
    Looks Very Nice

    Thanks for Sharing..
    aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource

  2. #17
    Two thumbs up! Nice work!

    Regards!
    Matt

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,722
    I just made the large mallet last summer. I haven't used it a great deal, but it has been handy for chopping out the corners of router cut rabbets and some mortise work. I usually use it on butt chisels and save my longer socket chisels for paring and lighter work. It's probably a little bigger than I need, but I'll never break or lose it.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    530
    Nice!

    Could you share a few overall dimensions, and describe how your planes are retained in their cubbies? It looks like the plane cubbies are somewhat modular... is that correct?

    Thanks....

    -TH

  5. #20

    Nice Job

    Very Nice Job Dave. Thanks for sharing your photos
    Cut once, bandage twice!!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,722
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Henderson2 View Post
    Nice!

    Could you share a few overall dimensions, and describe how your planes are retained in their cubbies? It looks like the plane cubbies are somewhat modular... is that correct?

    Thanks....

    -TH
    It's roughly 42 inches high by 22 inches wide, exterior dimensions. The plane cubbies (good word) are more or less modular, and all made of 1/2" hem/fir, planed down from 3/4. The left side with the jacks and jointers (#8, #607, #606 bottom, #5, #605, #605 1/2 top) is all one section, as is the bottom right section (one #4 1/2, a #604 1/2 and a #5 1/4), and the top right section (smoothers- #2, #603, a #604, plus a #60 scrub plane because it fit best with the smoothers). The dividers were generally set into dadoes in the top and bottom pieces, and are mostly solid wood except between the smoothers, where I used hardboard due to a lack of space. All the modules are screwed in place so I can remove them later for reconfiguration. When I made the sections I made the ends (or tops and bottoms) of the section 1/2" less wide than the sides, then assembled them with the top edges flush. This gave a 1/2" hidden relief under the top and bottom boards. The bottom edge of the sole (heel?) sits in the bottom relief and the top end of the sole in front of the knob is in the top relief. To remove a plane you lift it vertically then swing the bottom out, then bring it vertically down. Replacement is the reverse, insert the toe all the way, swing the heel down, then let it drop in place. This required some fairly careful fitting and messing around to get all the clearances to work just right, and is a lot easier with jointers and jacks, which have a lot of room at each end past the totes/knobs, than it is with smoothers. In fact the smooth planes have no protruding sole past the tote, so I bandsawed out pieces for the bottom of the plane sole/tote to sit on, that extended up around the tote and over the sole on each side. If this isn't clear I can post a picture of the cubby without the plane in it. Fitting the smoothers was REALLY fussy, especially the #2.

    After the separate modules were fabricated and everything fit, I riped 1/4" strips as wide as the sides and dividers and pinned/glued them in place to hide the dadoes/rabbets.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    530
    Thanks Dave. I thought that was what you had done, but I couldn't tell for sure.

    Living here in Earthquake Country (SoCal) we worry a lot about things falling off of shelves/racks....

    I just love the modular approach.... gives a lot of flexibility.

    I gotta build something similar; I hope mine works as well as yours.

    -TH

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,722
    We have a little experience with earthquakes up here, too (Puget Sound) and that was one of the things that I had in mind when I designed the plane cubbies. I am also tempted to put some sort of latch on the cabinet doors for the same reason, to keep the doors closed in case of an earthquake; I just haven't found a latch design that won't spoil the looks of the front of the cabinet. Right now I am using magnetic cabinet latches to hold the doors closed, but they are anything but positive. I might put the latches on the top or bottom where they would be more or less out of sight.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,347
    Blog Entries
    1
    For the latches, you may be able to mortise the top and bottom of the cabinet and the doors.
    Then place bar magnets inside the door mortise and use magnets on the outside to move them or hold them in place when the door is to be closed or opened.

    We were in Kalama, WA today. That would be a natural for a tee-shirt shop, Kalama tees.

    The building I was in was right near I-5. When a truck went by, the building would shake. The first time had me thinking earth quake for a second, but I could also hear the truck.

    Got a nice saw there, see my post.

    I am thinking of using some of your ideas for a tool cabinet myself. Have been thinking of making it free standing so it can be moved around in the shop easier. Still have not decided. So many other things going on, it will have to wait a while.

    jim

  10. Lee-Valley sent me a catalog of hardware.. might wanna check them out for the latch...

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    92
    Nice plane cabinet. I am a long way from finishing mine. A question on the plane dividers:

    Do you need the vertical dividers between the planes?

    My thought was to have all planes on the same level on the bottom, and then a variable "framework" along the top for the toe to slip into. The variable height top will be inserted into grooves on the back and sides. A lot less timber, lighter and easier to get one's fingers in to release the plane from its "cubby".

    Have I missed something?

    The cabinet, sized same as Studley, is being made entirely with timber picked up from the footpath throwouts, so I am happy to experiment.

    Peter Evans in Sydney
    (where it is summer)

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,722
    I believe your idea would probaby work; the biggest problem is the smaller smoothers have very little excess sole at either end to hook on to. I put dividers between my planes to minimize bumping them into one another and putting nicks on the soles. If you have sufficient depth and are not worried about earthquakes, then you can put the planes in at an angle or incline and not bother with having the toe of the sole captured.

  13. #28
    Looks great! Well organized. Nice wood. What more could you want? Nice job.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Escondido, CA
    Posts
    6,224
    I really like the swing door for measuring tools.

    My problem in thinking about a project like this - how do I know which tools and how many I will have a couple of years from now?

    You did a fine job, sir!

    Brian
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  15. #30

    The Plane Truth

    Very well executed, Dave. I've been trying to lay out something similar that would fit my current crop of iron and woodies (35+) plus chisels and saws. I've almost come to the point where I'm thinking of two cabinets. I really like your concept, though, and like one of the other posts above, I'll probably borrow some of your ideas.

    Insofar as the seismic issues and things mounted on walls (and speaking as a guy who does seismic engineering for a living), you probably want to put a fair number of long screws through the cabinet into the studs- I'd figure 3-inch #10's, no more than 12" center-to-center on each stud that the case crosses. It may sound like overkill, but you don't want all that hard-to-replace iron falling on the floor and breaking. Now if you happen to get hit when the big one (rather, a series of big ones) lets loose, the plane cabinet will probably be the least of your worries.

    Brian

Similar Threads

  1. Mini Plane review, Mujingfang Smoother??
    By Gene Collison in forum Neanderthal Haven
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 02-11-2012, 5:59 PM
  2. Workshop Tool Cabinet #2
    By Ron Fritz in forum Woodworking Projects
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 11-14-2008, 11:13 PM
  3. Replies: 21
    Last Post: 11-01-2008, 7:53 PM
  4. Milling stock with a combination of hand and power tools
    By Ted Fullerton in forum Neanderthal Haven
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 03-28-2007, 11:33 AM
  5. Hand Planes?
    By Charles Jackson III in forum Neanderthal Haven
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 03-10-2007, 11:52 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •