Henderson Hot Rod

[Leigh Betsch]

I bought this plane from Mike Henderson a few weeks ago. Like a kid I couldn't just leave it alone. I had to do a bit of hot rodding. First I ripped it down a bit so one of my irons would fit it. Then I didn't like the way the wedge worked with my iron. Then I had to get the mouth to fit the new iron. Then I added a purpleheart shim behind the new iron so I could adjust the mouth opening. Then I cut the tang off the tote so I could get my hand up on the back. Then I didn't like the army boot shape so went for the tennis shoe profile. Then I needed a knob. Then... well you get the picture.
before and after pics

[Alan DuBoff]

Now, that's a hot rod MikeH should be proud of!

[Mike Henderson]

Nice modifications. I wasn't satisfied with the plane but you've really made it into something nice. Congratulations!

Mike

[Leigh Betsch]

It was a fun project and it does a nice job of smoothing. I really need to get a jack or scrub plane going. Probably make another metal plane for those, but I'm starting to really like these wooden planes for smoothing. But then I really don't know much about planes. A couple of months ago the only plane I owned was a Stanley block plane. Now I've built 3, hot rodded one, and bought a EMC smother. I'm keeping my eye out for a Blum plane, so I can see how his unique blade system really works.

[Dewey Torres]

Nice "Plane make over". Be careful or someone may call you about a new reality show.

[george wilson]

That little screw holding the plane iron in place is very inadequate. The wedge would have pressed the iron tightly against the incline,especially near thecutting edge,if properly fitted. If your plane has chatter,that is why. The iron needs to be held tightly as low down to the cutting edge as possible. That screw's threads will also wear out the wood holding it after you have removed the iron enough times for sharpening. Is that a metal dowel the screw is threading into? That would help the threads' not wearing the wood out. Even crossgrain,the screw is not a permanent solution. The plane iron needs to stick up above the plane,where you can easily tap it and adjust it for depth. How can you tap that short blade sideways? it needs to be accessible. unless you sharpen the iron dead square every time,how can you adjust it for tilt? Not trying to aggravate you,just some hopefully helpful hints

[Leigh Betsch]

The screw is threaded into the metal cross dowel. It seems to hold the blade just fine. I'm thinking about adding two metal contacts between the blade and the frog near the top that would force the iron tip against the bottom of the frog (stole this idea from EMC) but I haven't noticed any chatter yet so I'm going to leave it alone for now. I went for simplicity in building it rather than simplicity in adjusting it. The iron wasn't made for this plane but I thought I would use it rather than buying one so yes it is short. I set the depth by tapping the blade with a nail set, and measuring the protrusion from the soul with a step mic. It takes a little trial and error but is not really very hard to do, and it can be very accurate if you have patience. I set it up to protrude about .0015 from the soul. The biggest disadvantage is I can not adjust it while planing. So if I get it set right everything is fine but if I need to adjusting after trying it, I have to start all over with tapping the iron. I have some thoughts on how to make it adjustable but it involves machining a metal cross piece and that will take longer than the time I have available right now. I also like the zero backlash design of the EMC adjuster, gotta do some thinking how to incorporate that feature, but that is probably different plane project.

[Brian Ward]

It was a fun project and it does a nice job of smoothing. I really need to get a jack or scrub plane going. Probably make another metal plane for those, ...

I'd make the scrub out of wood. Hogging is pretty rough work; you'll find the wood-on-wood action to be significantly less effort than that from a metal plane for this initial step. Plus, with a scrub plane, you don't need to do any fine-tuning with the throat.

[george wilson]

You can't adjust any simple wooden plane while working,anyway. I adjust my old style planes by loosening the wedge a bit,and carefully pushing the blade down till it contacts a piece of flat wood.Then,I tap the wedge in tighter,and slightly move the plane forward to see where it is cutting. I use a small brass hammer to knock the blade sideways till it cuts in the center. If it cuts a little too deep,a quick rap on the back end(of a smooth plane) or on the striking knob(of a jointer) jumps the blade back.

All this actually only takes a few seconds,if you are good at it. We used them all the time in Williamsburg. The shavings could quickly be made translucent. I always prefer a thick blade. They called them gauged blades in the old days. They'd be about 3/16" thick on Norris planes-IIRC,Sorby made Norris' blades. Thick,well clamped blades do not chatter. A thin blade requires very careful fitting of the wood to metal surfaces (hand forged metal surfaces) to not chatter.