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Thread: Table Top Issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Palatine IL
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    Table Top Issue

    I have been building a coffee table and was about to attach the table top to the body when I realized the top had started to warp, almost like a smile along the width.

    I had dry fitted it multiple times and the top was reasonably flat. I finished the bottom of the table, but not the top because I wanted to finish the top after I had attached it to the body of the coffee table.

    So now I am wondering if I caused this to happen because I finished one side and not the other. The finishing included two coats of stain and two coats of polycrylic water based finish.

    Any suggestions on how to fix this? I put a coat of finish on the top hoping it may help even things out. I am considering laying down a bunch of glue and clamping the top down. Is that a bad idea?

    I am mostly concerned with the corners, they are sitting on the legs and there doesn't seem to be an easy way to use hardware to pull it in. Along the apron, I can get it reasonably close with screws (I tried a few before I detached it out of corner frustration).

    This is my first large project and I am anxious to get it finally finished!

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Cavaliere View Post
    I have been building a coffee table and was about to attach the table top to the body when I realized the top had started to warp, almost like a smile along the width.

    I had dry fitted it multiple times and the top was reasonably flat. I finished the bottom of the table, but not the top because I wanted to finish the top after I had attached it to the body of the coffee table.

    So now I am wondering if I caused this to happen because I finished one side and not the other.
    Very likely

    The finishing included two coats of stain and two coats of polycrylic water based finish.

    Any suggestions on how to fix this? I put a coat of finish on the top hoping it may help even things out. I am considering laying down a bunch of glue and clamping the top down. Is that a bad idea?
    Glue?? Glue to what?? your table frame/apron?


    I am mostly concerned with the corners, they are sitting on the legs and there doesn't seem to be an easy way to use hardware to pull it in. Along the apron, I can get it reasonably close with screws (I tried a few before I detached it out of corner frustration).
    I would be very hesitant to screw any top down to the base of your table without allowing for wood movement of your table top.


    This is my first large project and I am anxious to get it finally finished!
    Understandable, but take the time to do it right.

    There will be someone more knowledgeable than myself come along to give you advice about "fixing" your table top.

    Good luck, and post some pics if you can.

  3. #3
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    I didn't think gluing the table top to the apron / legs was advisable, but it seemed like the only option last night in my frustration. I am glad I didn't do it yet.

    So now it seems like I really need to be concerned with getting the warp out of the table top before I try and attach it. I have planed for table top movement by making the screw holes a little larger on the side that will be touching the table top.

    Would finishing the table top just as much as I had the bottom reverse the affects, or is it too late do you think?

  4. #4
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    Yes, you most likely caused the cupping of your top. I normally apply equal amounts of finish to all sides of my projects to avoid this kind of problem. Your top my adjust itself in a few days.

    If you place your top on your aprons and clamp one edge of the smile down, can you press the other side down flat to the other apron with just hand pressure? If so, apply finish to the other side and assemble your table with cleats or figure 8's so it can expand and contract with seasonal changes. Gluing your top to the aprons will most likely result in a failure (cracked top or failed corner joint on the apron) in a couple of years.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Florida
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    624

    Stripper!

    Get the best stripper you can and remove every trace of finish from both sides. Give it a few days to stabilize. It should move back to relatively flat. When you finish it, apply equal finish to both sides. If it does not flatten, you can lay it flat on one side or the other, limiting moisture absorbtion. It should flatten enough to work.

    Thanks, Dan

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    The Little Tennessee River near Knoxville.
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    Build a new top

    There are lots of things that "might" work. To find out, you will have to invest time and materials in strippers, re-doing some of the top and more than likely it wont work. It "might", but I doubt it.
    By finishing the bottom and not the top, you may have accellerated the process of warping which may have eventually happened anyway due to poor quality lumber.

    BTW. what is the top made out of?
    Retired, living and cruising full-time on my boat.
    Currently on the Little Tennessee River near Knoxville

  7. #7
    Adam

    I'd really like to find out how you delt with this. Please post whenever you find the solution. Thanks. V.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Columbiana, Ohio
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    Adam, I would consider what Dan said, take off top and strip it completely. If it returns to a flat condition, I would cut 2"-3" off both sides and make breadboard ends. That should help if it trys to warp when you reapply the finish. If your top does not return to a flat condition, I wonder if wetting the other side will bring it back. Then do the breadboard ends. I do agree with the post about taking your time. John

  9. #9
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    It is made out of Red Oak.

    I will say so far I have taken water and brushed it on the top twice. This has actually taken a lot of the warp out of the top so far. There is still some, but if you think of it as a smile, It was a big grin before and now the lips are just slightly curled up

    I am hoping this evening it will be better.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    I like the idea of the breadboard ends. Next time I do a project like this, I definitely will consider doing that. The way it is designed right now, it has inlay and the bottoms are chamfered, so it would actually require me to build a new one if I wanted to go that route.

  11. #11
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    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Cavaliere View Post
    I didn't think gluing the table top to the apron / legs was advisable, but it seemed like the only option last night in my frustration. I am glad I didn't do it yet.

    So now it seems like I really need to be concerned with getting the warp out of the table top before I try and attach it. I have planed for table top movement by making the screw holes a little larger on the side that will be touching the table top.

    Would finishing the table top just as much as I had the bottom reverse the affects, or is it too late do you think?
    Can you remove the warp by pressing down with your hand? If so, and you have a well built apron system, you can pull it flat during assembly. Be sure you use an attachment system that allows for wood movement across the grain. Then get a couple of coats of finish on the top and be patient.

    If you can't get the cup out with hand pressure, try stripping the finish off the bottom using a chemical paint remover. Sand and then sticker the panel with some weight on top. Done quickly enough, the panel should flatten. Be sure you always allow air to freely flow to all sides.
    Howie.........

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