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Thread: Acrylic saw cutting

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    118

    Acrylic saw cutting

    I've got some 3/4 cell cast acrylic I need to cut to size. I was told to use a 80 tooth thin kerf blade for best results. Does it have to be a blade specifically for acrylic (pricey), or will any 80 tooth do?

    thanks,

    Dave
    Epilog Profile 25 watt w/rotary, Homemade CNC, Vinyl Cutter, VCarve 4, Corel X3, Photoshop, Illustrator, etc.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Whittier, CA
    Posts
    195
    Hi Dave,

    If you are not going to do it all the time any 80 tooth will do. Just dont go to fast or to slow. You dont want it to burn to much and there will be a heavy oder.
    Epilog mini 24 with 45 watts
    X3
    More wood working tools then I deserve

  3. #3
    The Cyro site has a useful technical brief regartding sawing of Acrylite FF. FF is extruded, not cast, but I'll guess that sawing cast would be similar.

    It can be a bit difficult navigating the Cyro site. I have a paper copy from my dealer but I found a pdf here:
    www.cyro.com/methacrylates/us/products/sheet_products/downloadinformation/technicaldownloads/

    If this link is too long try this one:

    http://www.cyro.com/methacrylates/us/

    then click Products -> Sheet Products -> Download information -> Technical Downloads then select Fabrication Tech Brief #2.

    There are also other Tech briefs re: laser cutting, painting, drilling, bending, cementing, etc. that may be of interest to members.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    118
    Very informative pdf. Thanks.

    Dave
    Epilog Profile 25 watt w/rotary, Homemade CNC, Vinyl Cutter, VCarve 4, Corel X3, Photoshop, Illustrator, etc.

  5. #5
    I use a Freud 80 tooth plastic laminate blade with pretty good results. Use a zero clearance insert. I think it was about $60 at Rockler.

    The rake angle is important. It should be minimal.

    Cast is much easier to cut than extruded as it is not nearly as brittle.

    The PDF is well done and more detailed than other recommendations I've found.
    Last edited by Mike Null; 02-06-2009 at 3:24 AM. Reason: add'l info
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
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  6. #6
    I second Mike's response. Use a blade designed to cut acrylic. I tried an 80 tooth blade made for wood and there was a big difference when I bought a blade just for acrylic.

    Bill

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    948
    There are several blades that you can use but ask your blade supplier to see what they carry. There are ATB(alternating bevel) and Triple chip that we use but if I remember correctly a negative hook blade is also a key factor. Make sure your saw has enough HP and the speed in which you push your material is very important. Make sure you have some cleaner ready also and a brass wire brush.
    A clean blade is a happy blade.
    Have a Blessed day,

    Michael Kowalczyk

    Laser-Trotec Speedy II 60 watt with 9.4.2 job control and will soon upgrade to JC X
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Murfreesboro, TN.
    Posts
    212
    Old time trick is to reverse the blade so that it is cutting backwards.

    A metal cutting carbide blade will also work well

    Kevin

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