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Thread: A Simple 3-Board Door

  1. #1

    A Simple 3-Board Door

    …but on a boat, not a barn.

    I’ve always believed the various woodworking specialties would be well served to cross-fertilize more. Want to learn to bed hardware perfectly? Learn from a stockmaker. Want to achieve perfection with card scrapers on expensive and fragile, highly figured wood? Watch a luthier. Restoring original finishes? A museum furniture conservator. Bending wood? A traditional boatbuilder or chairmaker, of course.

    This simple little door below is an excellent example. Were it for something in your kid’s room, you could build it in three or four cumulative hours. But for a boat….2+ days is closer to the mark. Why so long? The additional steps required to make it weatherproof are the small part. The big part is that almost nothing is square, plumb or perfectly symmetrical on a boat. Everything has to be fitted in place.



    This refit project from 1969 Oregon is as well made as any, with H. Mahogany frames, old-growth Doug Fir stringers, chines, beams and carlins, first-rate DF marine plywood, and all bronze hardware. Excellent professional workmanship and no expense or effort was spared in the structure.

    But boats are basically wood bent around a mold, with the curves faired with wooden battens and in some cases by eye. The measure of the parts is symmetrical to the eye, but not anything you can take to the table saw. That door opening, originally designed for ¼” plywood, looks great…but the right door frame is a whole quarter of an inch off in angle from its left counterpart, and the centerboard trunk is 3/16” to port of the center of the opening. That’s why boatbuilding is one of the last major refuges of hand tools…easier to cut oversize and trim in place rather than to climb the ladder into that boat dozens of times.



    I had to begin at the bottom and fit each board individually….and the rough stock had to be laid up oversize accordingly. This particular boat’s quality construction is worthy of something better than just a sheet of plywood stuck in there, so I high-graded (ripped out the defects) and laid up 2”-wide quartersawn strips of old-growth, air dried Western Red Cedar planking stock rejected and left over from last year’s boat (above). The defects were largely carpenter ant holes. Cedar is soft, and because I didn’t want to change the original construction of the door opening and its ¼” slots, I laminated the laid up cedar with epoxy to Luan doorskin, as a cedar edge that thin would be easily split out with a minor bump.

    Yeah, I know…laminating solid stock to plywood is asking for trouble, both from the potential of splitting and cupping should the outer solid wood become wetter than the stable plywood on the back and expand. But no wood I’ve ever used is a stable to moisture as this old q-sawn cedar; I encapsulated the cedar in epoxy topped by more coats of spar varnish on the front than back…and I’ll take my chances, as I couldn’t find a better use for those short pieces of leftover tight-ringed, high-resin cedar I refuse to make kindling of. It’s been complete over a month now in the hot sun and cool rain as I finished the project (yes, I set it out in the weather…if it’s gonna fail, better to fail now than when its needed)…and I don’t think I’m gonna have a problem. These doors are important as they can prevent swamping in a storm.



    The edges that fit in the quarter inch slots are coved, and each board is beveled to shed water away from the cuddy interior when installed, as does the weather stripping.



    The cap is Honduras Mahogany screwed down with contrasting Purpleheart bungs. I can’t really hide those bungs without darkening the finish…which would fade in the sun…so I might as well make them decorative.



    The port hole is weather-stripped Lexan with contrasting cedar trim…



    …and a nice SS locking hasp makes the final touch. And most importantly, if you look in the starboard cockpit bin in the first pic, you’ll see a shock corded, easy-access storage rack for it for use when under way.
    Last edited by Bob Smalser; 07-04-2004 at 9:56 AM.
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Grand Marais, MN. A transplant from Minneapolis
    Posts
    5,513
    Seen and sanded a bunch of those Bob, Your's is by far the prettiest.
    Last edited by Tyler Howell; 07-04-2004 at 5:47 AM.
    TJH
    Live Like You Mean It.



    http://www.northhouse.org/

  3. #3
    The secret is the wood, Tyler.

    I gloat over how cheaply I do some of this, but I generally don't talk about what the tree farm and related sawmill iron cost.
    “Perhaps then, you will say, ‘But where can one have a boat like that built today?’ And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze...men (who) live and work in out of the way places, but that is lucky, for they can acquire materials for one third of city prices. Best, some of these gentlemen’s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.” -- L Francis Herreshoff

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Thibodaux, La.
    Posts
    242
    Nice job, Bob. For my first couple of hatch boards I used one half teak ply. It lasts for a few years but has to be replaced. This last time, I used solid teak. Its heavy but it ain't going anywhere soon.
    Lynn J. Sonier

  5. #5
    Moving to Boat Building Forum...
    Glenn Clabo
    Michigan

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