120 to 220 bandsaw conversion?

[Ken Casser]

Tom, it's actually 11.4/5.7 amps. I had it wrong.

George, the motor says Made In The USA. It has the Delta name on it, and in smaller print it says that it was made by Marathon.

I'll play with it later to see what wires go to what. Maybe that will help me.

[Ken Casser]

Okay, I think I've figured it out. I'll be plugging it in in about half an hour. If you don't hear from me again, I'll be at the Emergency Room.

[Tom Veatch]

If Ken does convert the motor to 220, is the existing 110 on/off switch going to also require replacement?

Probably not. Since the tool is designed for dual voltage, the switch may already be a double pole (DP) switch. As a general rule, I use a DP switch on a 240v load so that both hot wires are dead at the load when the switch is off. But that's not a functional requirement. It may be required for UL listing, I don't know. As far as the power rating of the switch is concerned, if it's rated for the motor HP at 120 volts, typically it will also be rated to handle the power at 240 volts. That's assuming the switch is rated for the higher voltage which, again, it probably is.

A single pole (SP) switch on one of the hot leads will break the circuit and control the motor just as well as a DP switch. But, with an SP switch, one of the leads at the load will be hot even if the switch is turned off. But, you ALWAYS unplug the tool before messing around with the electrics, don't you!!! If you don't, be sure you don't miss any premiums on your insurance policies.

[Rick Moyer]

Okay, I think I've figured it out. I'll be plugging it in in about half an hour. If you don't hear from me again, I'll be at the Emergency Room.

Well, it's been about twelve hours, hope Ken's sleeping or sawing, but not in the emergency room!

[Mike Lipke]

Less amps, true.
Voltage though is double.

amps X volts = watts

Same wattage is going thru that motor, so you are using just as much electricity, either 110 or 220. With same wattage being consumed, I think the heat produced is the same.

A big advantage of 220 volt motors is you can run double the amps thru the wires servicing the tool.
For example, 14 gauge wire at 110 volts will only run 15 amps, or 1650 watts.

14 gauge wire at 220 volts will allow you to run 15 amps as well, but deliver 3300 watts.

[Rod Sheridan]

Less amps, true.
Voltage though is double.

amps X volts = watts

Same wattage is going thru that motor, so you are using just as much electricity, either 110 or 220. With same wattage being consumed, I think the heat produced is the same.

A big advantage of 220 volt motors is you can run double the amps thru the wires servicing the tool.
For example, 14 gauge wire at 110 volts will only run 15 amps, or 1650 watts.

14 gauge wire at 220 volts will allow you to run 15 amps as well, but deliver 3300 watts.

Mike, the current carrying capacity of a conductor is not affected by the voltage.

14 AWG wire is rated at 15 amperes, it doesn't change from 120 volts to 240 volts.


Regards, Rod.

[Roger Frazee]

As the saying goes... ' I hope he didn't let the smoke out of his motor...'

[Jim Solomon]

If Ken does convert the motor to 220, is the existing 110 on/off switch going to also require replacement?

Nope The amp draw would be less than the 110V setup. Maybe you where thinking of 3 phase as opposed to single phase?

[Chris Padilla]

In regards to the switch for 120 V vs 240 V. It is a matter if both legs of the 240 V need to be disconnected. For 120 V, only one leg is hot. Certainly, disconnecting one leg will stop the current but the other leg is still hot.

For safety, I believe both hot legs for 240 V should be disconnected so a double-pole switch should be used.

[Roger Frazee]

Mike, the current carrying capacity of a conductor is not affected by the voltage.

14 AWG wire is rated at 15 amperes, it doesn't change from 120 volts to 240 volts.


Regards, Rod.

Actually 14 awg is rated 20 amps unless being derated in conduit but it must be protected at 15 amps for most installations... there are a few exceptions... Please don't take offense Rod...I'm only trying to clarify...I haven't been to good at that lately....

[Chris Padilla]

Less amps, true.
Voltage though is double.

amps X volts = watts

Same wattage is going thru that motor, so you are using just as much electricity, either 110 or 220. With same wattage being consumed, I think the heat produced is the same.

A big advantage of 220 volt motors is you can run double the amps thru the wires servicing the tool.
For example, 14 gauge wire at 110 volts will only run 15 amps, or 1650 watts.

14 gauge wire at 220 volts will allow you to run 15 amps as well, but deliver 3300 watts.

Actually, and has been said here, the motor could care less what the voltage beling delivered to it is since the coils are wired appropriately. Nothing in the motor changes.

Only the current being DELIVERED to the motor changes when going from 120 V to 240 V--it is half as much at 240 V. So this conversion is usually only beneficial to the wiring in the wall. At the higher delivered voltage, with the lower current, less voltage will be dropped across the resistance of the wiring in the wall.

Some claim a peppier starting motor on 240 V vs 120 V. I think this is because more voltage is available (more current available) and less is being wasted in the wiring upon start up. Start up is key here...once the motor reaches a steady-state, it is no different than if it were on a 120 V circuit (except there is less current in the wires in the wall...less current means less heating up of the wires in the wall....)

[Roger Frazee]

How about this....a 2 hp motor stays 2hp and it doesn't matter what you do to it as far as voltage is concerned....

[Tom Veatch]

Actually, and has been said here, the motor could care less what the voltage beling delivered to it is since the coils are wired appropriately. Nothing in the motor changes.

Only the current being DELIVERED to the motor changes when going from 120 V to 240 V--it is half as much at 240 V. So this conversion is usually only beneficial to the wiring in the wall. At the higher delivered voltage, with the lower current, less voltage will be dropped across the resistance of the wiring in the wall.

Some claim a peppier starting motor on 240 V vs 120 V. I think this is because more voltage is available (more current available) and less is being wasted in the wiring upon start up. Start up is key here...once the motor reaches a steady-state, it is no different than if it were on a 120 V circuit (except there is less current in the wires in the wall...less current means less heating up of the wires in the wall....)

Chris, I've heard it said that the measure of a man's intelligence is how closely he agrees with you. Based on that measure, you're a pretty smart guy.

I generally avoid "Me, too!" posts, but about the only thing that I can add is that 240 vs 120 benefits, such as they are, will usually only be noticable under high current conditions. You mentioned startup which is the major event in that category, but you might see some benefit, although there's no guarantee, from it being a little more difficult to stall the motor under load. It all depends on the ability of the supply wiring to provide full voltage at the motor under high current conditions.

[Mike Henderson]

In regards to the switch for 120 V vs 240 V. It is a matter if both legs of the 240 V need to be disconnected. For 120 V, only one leg is hot. Certainly, disconnecting one leg will stop the current but the other leg is still hot.

For safety, I believe both hot legs for 240 V should be disconnected so a double-pole switch should be used.

Amen, Brother.

I'd never put a single pole switch on a 240V tool. One day, you'll forget to unplug the tool before you work on it. Or you'll sell it and the person who bought it will think it has a two pole switch.

Mike

[Ken Casser]

Thanks! Yup, it works great. There are other issues with this saw, but I'll leave them to another post. Thank you all for your help.