Great work!
Great work!
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Nice work, especially on the doors. Very nice piece!
Joe, Very nice. I saw that project in the mag. and remember not caring for it. What a difference the right changes can make. Bravo. Also I might have to relocate my fish tank to my shop, I guess they eat the saw dust. Also the first Woodshop I've seen with carpet and throw rugs. Just kidding. Exellant work and design changes. Happy Woodworking, Craig
Holy bejeezus, this was your first major project? I think you have a future here!!
Excellent job, the finished product looks amazing, well done!!
If at first you don't succeed, look in the trash for the instructions.
Very Nice
Stephan
Great project. The only question I have is how do you keep all the sawdust out of the aquarium?
Thanks again for all the positive comments. I can tell already that this is a supportive community and I look forward to learning a lot here and contributing what I can.
My fiancee and I are renting a 2 bedroom house, and I'm using the small finished basement as my shop. The room used to be my music room, but as the focus of my hobbies is changing, it's slowly turning into my wood shop.
I enjoy the aquarium down there with me, even though the cabinet does get covered in sawdust. A little ends up in the tank, but it seems to get filtered out within a day.
Very cool, I've got the same plans sitting on my desk. My space has me cutting out one of the shelf columns just as you did. The ply for the case arrived yesterday.
I was just going to do a plain floating panel in the doors, but your doors have me looking for router bit kits now.
Cool, what type of wood will you be using? Ash like in the plans or something else?
A few tips on the project that you might find useful:
1. The plans called for 1/8" gap around the doors, and you could probably get away with a slightly smaller gap like 3/32".
2. The plans also have hinge blocks flush with the inside of the face frame so that you can use non-face-frame hinges. That's what I did, and the whole hinge setup seems kind of bulky. This was my first time installing blum cup hinges, and I'm not sure why you wouldn't want to just use face frame hinges without the hinge blocks. But maybe there's a good reason for that. I'll take a picture of the inside of the doors and post it up so you can see what I mean.
3. I don't know if this is common knowledge, but I figured out a cool trick to minimize the gap on either side of the shelves. I routed a narrow rabbet on the bottom side edges of each shelf the width of the shelf pins, so that the shelf pin shoulders have room, but the visible portion of the shelf extends the full width.
Good luck with your project!
Last edited by Joe Aliperti; 02-12-2009 at 3:51 PM.
I have walnut and soft white maple on hand so I'm going to use walnut for the base and top and then do the body in soft maple.
I wasn't going to go with the cup hinges. I planned on trying to do my first insert doors with something like these:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=hinges
Thanks for the tip on the shelves. I've not done adjustable shelves yet and figured it would take some playing to figure out how best to do them. In the end, I've redimensioned the plans to fit my space and equipment so part of me is still debating on fixed shelves, but I know 10 years from now I'll like the adjustable better.
QS thats how I like oak best. Nice work.
I could cry for the time I've wasted, but thats a waste of time and tears.
Looking forward to future projects!
Dewey
"Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"