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Thread: Forrest Woodworker II - can it really do it all?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332

    Forrest Woodworker II - can it really do it all?

    I was perusing Forrest's site and the claim about the WWII replacing a ripping and crosscutting blade (and combo) blade seems unreal to me but I have ZERO experience with Forrest save for the fact that everyone seems to like them quite a bit.

    I could sell my arsenal of blades to pick up 2-3 WWIIs if the claims are true.

    What's the skinny from the collective here?

    Thanks.....
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
    Posts
    2,479
    The answer is: NO.
    It's a good blade in all but not excellent in either.
    I personally prefer Freud Fusion to that (both are in the same class).

    My general experience: if something is supposed to do several jobs at the same time (to replace several things specifically built for them) it will not be as good in either of them.

  3. #3
    Chris,

    I am all about convenience and for me the WWII (along with the Ridge Carbide) is the perfect tool for that work ethic.

    e.g. Today i was working on some various projects and was ripping/crosscutting 3/4 ply, 4/4 walnut, 4/4 paduak, some 3/4 MDF and some 5/4 Cherry...and I can honestly say that with a ZCI in I had little to no tearout whatsoever and close to glass smooth edges (rip and cross).

    I am sure if I were to get top notch Rip Blades and Crosscut blades I could equal or better those results, but to change out the blade each time for me simply is not worth it.

    Just my opinion/observation

    p.s. There is also the "Made down the street" appeal/made in US Pride for me as I live only 20 minutes away which perhaps makes me a bit biased.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    Well Chris, if one blade would do it all, tool suppliers wouldn't bother making hundreds of types.

    Nothing rips like a rip blade because you need few teeth with very deep gullets.

    A cross cut blade is the opposite, it needs many shearing teeth with small gullets.

    A combination blade is 80% crosscut, 20% rip.

    Don't sell your blade collection yet......Rod.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    2,742
    I have a 40 tooth WWII combo blade. I also have a 60 tooth Freud crosscut blade. I've tried making the same cuts in the same wood with both blades and I typically can't tell the difference. Sometimes the 60 tooth does cut a little cleaner. My WWII rips 8/4 maple, walnut and even hickory quite well. And I'm using an anemic Craftsman contractor saw.

    To be fair, my WWII is sharpened by a local wizard who made it cut better than new. If you buy a WWII, I think you'll be very happy with it. It's a great blade that will give you good service for a long time. There are certainly other good blades as well, but I'm very happy with my WWII.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    854
    Not in my experience. And even comparing the WWII to other combo blades the WWII isn't my favorite. I like Freud and Tenryu better. But that is just me, and I am not an expert by any means.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    4,673
    It's a good blade but doesn't excel at either task. It's almost as good for crosscutting as an 80 tooth blade but not quite. There's no question in my mind that it's not up to the ripping performance of a dedicated 24 tooth rip blade. Sheet stuff comes out better with my 80 tooth as well. The WWII is in my saw at the moment but I dont feel I can leave it in there for everything.
    Use the fence Luke

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    I have been using the Forrest WW-II 40t for my main blades (I have two) for years now including keeping them in service on my slider. They do the majority of my cutting with excellent results, both for general ripping and all cross-cutting. I keep them sharp (I have one to go in for sharpening right now) and they have not let me down. For ripping really thick or thick/rough material, I have a Woodworker II 20 ripping blade.

    I do believe it it true that a dedicated, designed for the specific cut blade will give better results than a general purpose blade like the WW-II, but honestly, for me it would be marginal enough to discourage me from constantly having to change my blade.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    Another vote for the Fusion. Incredibly smooth cuts.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    3,349
    The only time I take my WWII off the ts is to put on my dado stack. There may be better blades, and I won't argue that a general purpose blade can replace a number of specialty blades, but I get very clean rip and cross cuts with mine.
    Where did I put that tape measure...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    275
    I sold a WWII 40-tooth on a saw I sold 5 years ago. I bought dedicated crosscut and rip blades, to replace it for my new saw. These are Guhdo blades, pretty expensive German blades. The Guhdos cut nice, but for most work, the WWII did a better job. The WWII ripped without burning, unless the cut was really thick. I would say for 95% of the cuts I do, the WWII was better than either Guhdo. The Guhdos are a lot noiser than the WWII as well, and one of the Guhdos is a "Piano Plus" quiet blade.

    So I've come full circle, and have just ordered a WWII. I'll use it for everything except really thick rips, which I'll use the Guhdo for.

    I'm looking forward to mounting it on the saw, to see if it's as good as I remember. I run a Forrest Chopmaster on my miter saw. Same experience, exceptional cuts. I'm a big fan of Forrest blades.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,619
    The only time my WWII leaves the arbor is when I have a LOT of ripping to do, or I’m cutting laminates.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Pensacola Florida
    Posts
    2,157
    I have a 80 tooth Tenryu blade and I cut every thing from curly maple to MFD to small green logs I have even cut through a couple of nails and a screw or two and it still cuts like new ....I wouldnt buy any thing else and it was only $ 60
    Dave

    IN GOD WE TRUST
    USN Retired

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    The Williamsburg Millwork shop had some trouble with Forrest blades shedding teeth,and not from nails. I had a brand new one lose a tooth. When I sent it back I stuck a post it note on it that it had lost the tooth with a few hour's use. It came back fixed like new,resharpened,no charge.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Atlanta , Ga.
    Posts
    3,970
    I have two Amana 20 T .. 2 CMT 24 T rip blades.. an Infinity General 40 T .. a Infinity Super General 40 T and they all serve different purposes therefore I change them as needed. Yesterday saw 4 blade changes during a 9 hour span which takes a tad over a minute for me to change.

    So.. around 5 minutes for 4 changes. Most of us will spend far more time reading post here so it depends where your priorities are I suppose. And one 40 T Combo blade of any make will not do it all as well as dedicated blades IMO. No way..

    Sarge..

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