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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    St. Louis, MO
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    Table Saw Blade Sharpening

    Guys,

    My table saw (basic Delta contractor saw, but has served me well) blade seems to be getting dull (again). It's a Freud, so not a terribly cheap or expensive model. I have been cutting a fair bit of plywood as I build some shop cabinets, and the saw is really beginning to struggle.

    Anyway I have few questions:
    - I'm assuming that the plywood (and some particle board and MDF) is especially hard on the blade - is this true?

    - Can I sharpen the blade myself (meaning just take a file and hack away at each tooth)?

    - Assuming not, does anyone know of a good sharpening service that doesn't end up costing as much as the blade itself (as well as making me wait 3 weeks to get it back)? I'm not made of money - I have a $50 blade and don't want to spend $40 getting it sharpened!

    - Finally, if I'm buying a new blade - are there any recommendations beyond the Forrest WWII? Again, even the $80 Amazon price is a bit out of my budget, especially given that I have one blade and am still cutting quite a bit of plywood (although hope to graduate to hardwood once I get the shop finished)...

    Thanks in advance for your advice...

  2. #2
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    Sounds like you are a 'one blade' user. Purpose specific blades will do a better job and wear slower as they are not used for every cut but, as you say, we are not made of money. I would advise at least two blades so that one being out for sharpening does not stop you from working.

    As to a good service, ask your local cabinet shops where they go and how they like them. An 80T blade sharpening is about $28 where I am. Lower tooth blades are less. I am a poor example as I keep 2 rip, 2 general and 2 crosscut blades right by the saw plus some specialty blades.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Thanks,

    Yes, I am a 'one blader', but you've got me thinking....

    I have noticed some packaged offerings from Dewalt and Ridgid that contain both a rip and crosscut blade - any experience with those brands outside of the 'construction' industry?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Adam View Post
    Thanks,

    Yes, I am a 'one blader', but you've got me thinking....

    I have noticed some packaged offerings from Dewalt and Ridgid that contain both a rip and crosscut blade - any experience with those brands outside of the 'construction' industry?
    Don't bother. I didn't like the blades. I ended up getting a Freud glueline rip and a cabinet makers crosscut. I also have a Freud combination blade that does very well.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by John Adam View Post
    Thanks,

    Yes, I am a 'one blader', but you've got me thinking....
    Everybody has a price point they would like to meet, however the benefits of task specific blades far outweigh the initial pain of the price.
    Longer life/ fewer sharpenings/better results. Let`s assume, that like many of us, you don`t have a 3 or 5hp T.S. Putting a 24T rip only blade on an "average" 1.5 or 1.75 hp T.S. makes a CONSIDERABLE difference.
    If at all possible, spend the $`s for blades and take the time to change when necessary. JMO

  6. #6
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    Mt. Pleasant, MI
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    I have a manual circular saw sharpener and it does OK. I can grind faces and tips easy, although I generally only do the face. By the time the blade would be bad I have had many sharpenings and it is do for replacement anyway.

    My fine tooth blades go to dynamic sharpening via UPS. I don't have a diamond wheel for doing them and it would take 10+ sharpenings to make it even, not counting my time and forgetting the better job done by the pro's.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  7. #7
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Sharpening carbide tipped saw blades is not generally a "DIY" project as you not only want the tips keen, you also want them all identical so the blade remains balanced and has a clean cut. It only takes one tooth to have some variation to mess things up. A good local service or one you send in to is the right way, IMHO.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. [quote=John Adam;1048883]

    Anyway I have few questions:
    - I'm assuming that the plywood (and some particle board and MDF) is especially hard on the blade - is this true?
    YES
    - Can I sharpen the blade myself (meaning just take a file and hack away at each tooth)?
    NOT REALLY


    - Assuming not, does anyone know of a good sharpening service that doesn't end up costing as much as the blade itself (as well as making me wait 3 weeks to get it back)? I'm not made of money - I have a $50 blade and don't want to spend $40 getting it sharpened!
    Ridge Carbide in NJ

    - Finally, if I'm buying a new blade - are there any recommendations beyond the Forrest WWII? Again, even the $80 Amazon price is a bit out of my budget, especially given that I have one blade and am still cutting quite a bit of plywood (although hope to graduate to hardwood once I get the shop finished)... Freud blades are good and a little cheaper

    quote]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Stanwood, WA
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    John,
    PM sent!
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    St. Louis, MO
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    109
    Dewey,

    I think my corporate systems killed your message, it popped up briefly, then died....

    Can you resend, or post here?

    Jim and Paul - thanks!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Stanwood, WA
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    Ok John, I tried again.
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  12. #12
    If you spend $40 to sharpen a $50 blade, you now have a sharpe $40 blade. Quality blades can be sharpened several times. Main thing is to find someone who knows how to sharpen, removing the least amount of material. The more material removed, the less sharpening are available. I like places that have "automatic, CNC sharpening machines, though here locally is a service that uses a manual machine. He does a good job. Main thing to do is measure each tooth, and then sharpen based on most worn tooth. I like Dynamic Saw in Buffallo NY. Scott Whiting is also highly reccomended. Check out Dynamic's web site and see what they use to sharpen with.( dynamicsaw.com) Eventually you will be buying a second blade, so buy it now, and before it dulls, get you original sharpened. That way you will always have a fresh blade. Beware of any BORG blade that have yellow on them. They are for rough cutting in the construction industry. For a reasonably priced ( less than $50) general purpose blade try a Delta 7657. It comes with a 30 day satifaction warranty. Don't like it, return it. Freud blades carry a similar warranty.

  13. #13
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    Feb 2008
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    Stanwood, WA
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    How much are you guys paying for sharpening?
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Atlanta , Ga.
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    3,970
    $7.50 for up to 24 T.. $14.00 for 40 T.. $22.00 I believe for my 72 T SCMS blade. Cheap enough for me to have one sharp waiting for one to dull and change when it does. At that point drop it by my local about 4 miles away and pick it up 2/3 days latter to sit and wait.

    Sarge..

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,274
    I have my blades sharpened at FS Tool in Toronto, who are a tooling manufacturer.

    I had an 80 tooth triple chip grind sharpened last month for $16, taxes included.

    Regards, Rod.

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