Yankee Brace

[David Keller NC]

"1. (for David Keller) I didn't quite understand your last comment "The 2101s go for a bit more". Is that a model - the 2101s - or is that a plural of the 2101 ("the model 2101 units go for a bit more"). My confusion is that the one I have is a 2101. The only other model I was aware of is the 2100 which I thought was made prior to Stanley buying North Brothers."

Mike - Apologies, I did have the two model numbers backwards. Stanley made both the 2100 and the 2101. According to http://www.sydnassloot.com/Brace/Northb.htm, the 2100 models are the higher-end ones (and is the one I have, though it was clearly made by Stanley and marked as such). Regardless, the differential at an auction between the two models isn't all that much - it's condition that really jacks the price up. The most I've ever seen one go for was $400 for one made prior to Stanley buying North Bros out that was in its (somewhat tatty) original box.

Another factor in prices that these bring is the throw - the 6" throw models are highly sought after, and the 8" throws are almost as "hot". The 10" and 12" braces, not so much. Makes sense from a cabinetmaker's perspective.

[Mike Henderson]

I'm not David, but I'll take a whack. Fray non-ratcheting vs ratcheting: much lighter and much faster bit changing. If you don't need the ratcheting feature, it's a lot of excess baggage.

Fray non-ratcheting vs other non-ratcheting: I only have 12 non-ratcheting braces for comparison, but the Fray's are always aligned, balanced, and the bit holding mechanism is suprising good and quick.

Mike - when I take your carving class at Woodcraft, I'll bring a couple for you to try.

Thanks - I'd love to see a couple. Not that I need to buy any more braces.

Have you signed up for the carving class yet? I'll be looking for you.

Mike

[Chuck Nickerson]

Thanks - I'd love to see a couple. Not that I need to buy any more braces.

Have you signed up for the carving class yet? I'll be looking for you.

Mike

I'm in the April 5th class. I may also make it down for the demo on February 28th, but that's up for grabs.

[David Martino]

What's the claim to fame for the Fray non-ratcheting brace? A non-ratcheting brace is pretty simple so it must be in the chuck, or is it just that they're scarce.
[/QUOTE]

What Chuck said... I think it's that the ratchet mechanism and large, ball-bearing chucks are heavy - work great when you need the muscle. But you don't always need a ratchet. The chucks on Fray (and many older braces) are simple wingscrew affairs - quick and light. Some say easier to stay plumb or steer the bit. The Fray mechanism is supposed to be particularly simple and effective. I'm not sure but they might only take 4-sided bits? I don't know firsthand... yet... Fray/Spofford brace are scarce, at least where I've been looking. Until then, guess I'll just keep using my heavy, nickel-plated, ball-bearing ratcheting braces...

I checked my Stanley-made 2101A marked "Bell System B". The cap on top of the ratchet has normal threads, i.e. counterclockwise to remove. ChanneLocks and some cardboard to cushion worked for me, but it wasn't seized up. Also, mine's probably from 1950s-60s. Go easy, Stanley may have changed this at some point. Good luck,

Dave M.

[Adam Cherubini]

I bought this Stanley Yankee 2101 brace ...I have to say, it is the Cadillac (or Mercedes-Benz) of braces

Mike,

I can't resist an automotive analogy. I don't care for 2101. For cabinetry, it's just too big. It's more like driving an F350 Super Duty pick-up truck to your job at the office. It's more than any office worker really needs. Sure. Along the way, you may spy a stranded firetruck in a ditch that you can pull to safety. For short trips and light loads, I prefer to strap on a high revving sub compact.

For years I've heard guys extoll the virtues of these braces and I bought one or four myself. And while I have occassion to use it once in awhile, I don't think the tool deserves all it's press. It's a carpenter's tool designed for pumping large holes in soft woods. A little 3" brace with a chuck that can hold just about anything is more my speed. Don't really need the weight or complexity of a ratchet. Don't need precision jaws. The bits I use aren't precision. Stanley made good cheap braces with simple rachets and wooden handles for a time...maybe early 20th century. For a simple nonsense brace, I'd recommend one of those in the smaller sizes. If you have made up your mind to take up timber framing (or maple workbench building) full time, get the yankee.

Adam

[Mike Henderson]

Adam - thank you for your posting. I'm building a Windsor chair and was talking with an experienced Windsor chair maker who recommended the Yankee. He did say that the ratchet mechanism is not required. And even if it was, a sealed mechanism is certainly not required for making Windsor chairs.

But it's interesting to see how the Yankee is made. I guess I'm a gadget freak.

You mention a 3" brace. I'm assuming you're referring to a brace with a 6" swing - is that correct?

I'll research the small Stanley - do you remember the model number(s).

Mike

[Justin Green]

Quick question (from a newbie):

Do they still make bits for these braces?

[David Keller NC]

Justin - Yes, but they're pricey. Tools for Working Woods sells them, and while supplies last, Lee Valley was selling some new old stock. I'm not one that can talk when it comes to buying new, expensive tools, but in this case, you might be better off looking for a used set of Stanelys. However, the Tools for Working Wood bits would be a good way to fill out a set that's missing one or two.

[Brian Ward]

Irwin still makes a bunch of taper-shank bits for braces, but the quality can be iffy. An auger bit file is necessary equipment on a lot of them to make the cutters work correctly.

Old bits are pretty easy to come by and tend to be a lot cheaper. I've had good luck at buying bunches of them and picking out the good ones.

[Mike Henderson]

There's a couple of types of "old" bits - Adam or David could probably tell you more. One type is flat and looks somewhat like a modern spade pit - probably originally blacksmith made. The other is the auger bit.

You can find both on eBay. The auger bits are very inexpensive. I bought an auger file from Lie Nielsen ($8 + $3 shipping) to sharpen them.

You can also use regular (modern) twist bits if the chuck will hold them. Some chucks will only handle the tapered square shank bits.

[Added note: I forgot about spoon bits. You can find them in many places but Lee Valley has a set here.]

Mike

[David Keller NC]

Mike - a thought on your Windsor chair project. Roy Underhill did a show with a distinguished guest that was a Windsor maker (Curtis Buchanan - I think). He demonstrated a "gage patent" auger bit with spurs that were curled up instead of pointing down as with the Jennings or Irwin patent. The really cool thing about this bit is that it could easily bore at an angle to the wood's surface other than 90 degrees. It might be worth looking for one of these if you can find it in the right size.

BTW - "Gage" is how it was pronounced, but I don't think it was how it was spelled. Perhaps someone else that knows could chime in here.

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks, David. My friend uses spoon bits but I'll look into that gage bit.

Mike