Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 46

Thread: Do I need a Radial Arm Saw?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Middle Ga.
    Posts
    9
    I have a Craftsman that I bought new in 1976 and I still get good use of it. Unlike most, I don't pull mine through, but push it like a circular saw.

  2. #32
    There's an idea...
    ken

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Canton, GA
    Posts
    123
    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Hargis View Post
    I can't help but wonder what your decision is on this after reading the w-i-d-e range of responses...so what will it be: yea, or nay?
    If I recall correctly, the saw looks like the first one Jeff Miller posted. I am going to call my uncle and see if he has the manual for it as well. My grandfather was very meticulous in keeping everything so it should be there (assuming my uncle is as meticulous).

    If he does have the manual then I'll probably drag it home and see if I can squeeze it in the garage somewhere. Even if he doesn't have the manual I'll bring it home. More for sentimental reasons than anything but after reading through the responses I can recall a few times where it would have been nice to use the RAS instead of messing up a setup on the TS.

    Where can I go to find out about the recall that several people mentioned?

    Thanks for all of the responses

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Independence, MO, USA.
    Posts
    2,472
    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Williams View Post

    Where can I go to find out about the recall that several people mentioned?

    Thanks for all of the responses
    I believe it is radialarmsawrecall.org. Last I heard, it was easier to call and reach them then email (via the site) as it was either broken, or ignored.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    44
    Just another voice weighing in here. I've had a Craftsman RAS of the vintage you're talking about. HATED it, absolute hatred. It was impossible to set up with the needed precision to make it a fine woodworking machine. Fast forward to today - I have 3 (though selling one) older DeWalts. I don't own a table saw (lack of room) and don't really miss having one. I probably will someday when I get a shop with enough room, but that's not going to be for a while. That said, my machine is set up correctly (a time-consuming procedure) though this doesn't have to happen more than once a year or so. It is also made with a quality that allows it to stay precise. I rip, bevel, dado, plough, miter, bevel-miter and even mold with it. I love my RAS. An older DeWalt can be had for about $100-$300 and is well worth the money. The Craftsman really is only useful as a crosscut machine.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bowling Green Oh
    Posts
    51

    Ras

    I have to disagree with the comments about accuracy of a RAS and that pull cuts are hard to master and that you can't have a zero clearance insert. I have a Dewalt MBF that is more accruate than any miter saw I have owned. If I do a 5 sided cut to check squareness(as you would do when making a cut-off sled for a table saw), I cannot measure the variance on the 5th cut. As for using the pull stroke to crosscut a piece of wood, if you have the correct blade which is designed for a RAS with negative hook, pulling a crosscut is never a problem. As for the zero clearance insert, if your main table is covered with a piece of tempered hardboard, you create zero clearance with your first cut.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Roseville, MN
    Posts
    348
    You can probably find the manual at OWWM.com.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Canton, GA
    Posts
    123
    I wanted to say thanks to everyone that offered up advice and opinions. this truely is the best site out there. I did find out that my uncle has the manual for the saw and he said the date on the manual says 1969. the model number is 113.29410. According to the recall site, this saw already has the upgrade kit on it. That doesn't sound right but I'll check it out once I see the saw again. He said that there are a bunch of attachements and extra blades for it as well. Now I am pretty excited about this.

    Again, thanks to everyone.

  9. #39
    Here's a bit I didn't know until recently: the 113 in that number can be used to trace the saw back to who built the saw for sears:

    Link

    So 113 would be Emerson Electric Co. This was helpful to me as I could not find a good manual reprint on a craftsman bandsaw I am tinkering with but once I found out it was built by Skil I found a good owners manual...

    I think I'm correct on this - ?
    ken

  10. #40

    One more thing...

    If you decide to use this saw, once the table is tuned up, don't use it (the table) for pounding, beating, or otherwise bashing things. You'll have to tune it again if you put any big work on it.

    Art

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wapakoneta, Ohio
    Posts
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Williams View Post
    . the model number is 113.29410.

    Again, thanks to everyone.
    Jimmy, I looked up a photo of that saw (http://www.owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=5130) and if I got it right, it is considered one of the best C'Man saws out there. This one is reputed to hold it's settings, and be reliable on the angles. I think you really latched onto something.
    BTW, my F-I-L had one of those, and it belongs to my son now.
    Last edited by Fred Hargis; 02-27-2009 at 12:09 PM.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    246
    I'd def keep it.

    Also, am I the only one cutting dado's on my SCMS???

    PS

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Columbia, MO
    Posts
    111
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Cuts are not as clean because you cant have a zero clearance insert.
    Acutally, that's not true the "insert" is the support board. Unless, of course, your support board looks like swiss cheese from running the blade into it.

    I get very clean cuts on mine.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    54

    Use a negative hook blade

    I think the one point about using a RAS that doesn't get enough emphasis is the absolute need to use a negative hook blade. Since a RAS is basically making a climb cut, using a conventional blade with a positive hook angle just increases its natural tendency to self-feed and can actually be unsafe, especially for someone not familiar with using a RAS. I had the same problem myself with my first RAS before I knew anything about using the correct blade and I was constantly fighting the saw's tendency to cut aggressively. Once I installed the correct blade the difference was like night and day. Now, it cuts accurately and effortlessly with zero tendency to self-feed. I only use it for cross cuts and it's a pleasure to use.

  15. #45

    Do I need a radial arm saw

    I've been reading all the comments regarding the radial arm saw and agree with most. I couldnt get along without mine. I have had the same 9" Craftsmen for 40 years and use it almost daily. When I was learning woodworking in my neighbors professional woodworking shop I was instructed to never move the saw from 90 degrees under pain of death. My RAS is used for crosscutting and for crosscut dados ONLY Eg. bookstacks
    As for accuracy its pretty darn close to 90 degrees. The RAS sits in a continuous 16 ft. bench utilizing a 2X2 extruded aluminum fence. I find the RAS invaluable for cutting work to length and my UniSaw for all the rest of my needed cuts. Ed

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •