LN Cross Peen hammers...

[JohnMorgan of Lititz]

Has anyone seen the new LN hammers? Not sure why, but I'm a real hammer-junkie and these look too cool to pass up. Certainly would be handy for lateral adjustments on a few handplanes...

I notice there are 3 metals available. I understand the brass, but my limited knowledge of the other two steels draws the question as to why I'd want A2 steel or Hardened A2 as options.

Anxious...on thursdsay I'm making the 10 hour trek to Warren ME. Can't wait to do some shopping.

So sad.......

[george wilson]

It depends upon how they are hardening them. In a larger hammer,you wouldn't want chips flying off the hammer into your skin. That happened to me when I was a kid. Got "shot" twice in the shoulder when some other kid was beating on a crowbar.

On hammers that small,I seriously doubt any chipping would be possible. I've made several silversmith's hammers that I didn't want the polished heads to get marred. They were hardened 01 steel,so as to not dent the faces. If I wanted to keep a nicely prepared face on the LN hammer,I'd choose the hardened one,polish the face,and use it when I didn't want to damage the work. Brass,of course,for the plane adjustment.

[Gary Benson]

I chose, but have not yet received the A2, non hardened version as the happy medium. I figure it will be hard enough for the very light driving tasks, and will be soft enough to adjust the hardened A2 plane blades, especially since you are looking for very slight adjustments anyway. I have other hammers for the "larger adjustments" needed in the shop. But, the brass version sure is pretty.

[Joe McMahon]

I received the brass hammer last week. It is absolutely gorgeous! Fit & finish is as expected from Lie-Nielsen. A lot of bucks but I now have a really nice plane hammer & won't have to buy another in this lifetime.

[george wilson]

I just use a little $2.50 brass hammer I got from Brookstone in the 70's,when they still sold tools. Trouble is,brass hammers get so beat up. You can still get those little hammers in different places. Head is about 9/16" X 2",round.

[JohnMorgan of Lititz]

I just use a little $2.50 brass hammer I got from Brookstone in the 70's,when they still sold tools. Trouble is,brass hammers get so beat up. You can still get those little hammers in different places. Head is about 9/16" X 2",round.

Now that's just no fun, George. You almost shamed me into not buying a LN. We'll see...once I pick one up, I'm sure my "sickness" will cloud my judgement. But a $2 hammer will do the job just as well.

I've spent 65 bucks on a Douglas framing hammer that, well, was certainly twice+ a decent Estwing...but hey, what can i say. I've used the excuse that it always hammers nails in straight - I don't think my wife bought the idea.

[george wilson]

I make my own "Nice" hammers. I just would hate to use an $85.00 brass hammer on a steel plane iron. Maybe I could use it to crack nuts?

[John Schreiber]

I don't get the point of a cross peen hammer. What do you use the narrow part for?

[Pedro Reyes]

I like most tools, but $85 is a bit out of my range for a hammer.

Ultra machineable brass alloy rod 3/4" by 12" less than $15

This, a lathe, some cherry and a good time makes at least 5 of George's hammers, not peen, but definitely something nice to adjust a plane.

John S.

As far as I know the thin end is used to drive small nails, used it, works, brass does not seem to offer an advantage here.

peace

/p

[Mike Henderson]

As Pedro said, you can make your own brass hammer fairly cheap. See a tutorial here.

Mike

[John Schreiber]

. . . As far as I know the thin end is used to drive small nails, used it, works . . .

I'd heard that, but I guess I don't understand how is it easier to hit small nails with a small head. Do you hold the nail between your fingers, then try to hit the nail between your fingers?

I can see it maybe for nailing at an angle into corners, but then how would you swing it? When I need to put in small nails, I use a regular hammer, I just don't hit as hard.

[george wilson]

You hold the little brad between your fingers,and use the cross pein (actually,pane),to strike between the fingers and start the brad into the wood. Brass offers no advantage in that direction,and would only quickly get beaten over.

Those small hammers,by the way,were called telephone hammers,used to install telephone wires in houses early in the telephone era.

[JohnMorgan of Lititz]

You hold the little brad between your fingers,and use the cross pein (actually,pane),to strike between the fingers and start the brad into the wood. Brass offers no advantage in that direction,and would only quickly get beaten over.

Those small hammers,by the way,were called telephone hammers,used to install telephone wires in houses early in the telephone era.

Interesting, I was wondering what the narrow end was for...thought it would be difficult to use for brads. But, I guess w/ a little skill and practice it can be done.

[David Keller NC]

Another word for what Lie-Nielsen's come out with is a "Warrington Pattern" hammer. The intent of the cross-peen is to drive small brads in tight places - specifically, toe-nailing in corners. I've a steel version made by Marples, and it's extremely useful for this purpose.

The cross-peen face is designed primarily to avoid scarfing up the inside 90 degree face to the piece you're toe-nailing. A regular hammer (at least one with a round face) gives you very little surface area to hit that little brad in the corner, and usually winds up trashing one or both 90 degree faces. Finally, one is intended to start the brad in a starter hole made with a gimlet - that's how you avoid whacking your fingers when starting and driving it home.

[John Schreiber]

You hold the little brad between your fingers,and use the cross pein (actually,pane),to strike between the fingers and start the brad into the wood. . . .

Another word for what Lie-Nielsen's come out with is a "Warrington Pattern" hammer. The intent of the cross-peen is to drive small brads in tight places - specifically, toe-nailing in corners. I've a steel version made by Marples, and it's extremely useful for this purpose.

The cross-peen face is designed primarily to avoid scarfing up the inside 90 degree face to the piece you're toe-nailing. A regular hammer (at least one with a round face) gives you very little surface area to hit that little brad in the corner, and usually winds up trashing one or both 90 degree faces. Finally, one is intended to start the brad in a starter hole made with a gimlet - that's how you avoid whacking your fingers when starting and driving it home.

Excellent points. Does the other end have a belled or slightly rounded face? I ground down an old hammer like that so I could sink a nail quickly without marking the wood.

I don't think I'll pick up the Lie-Nielsen, but I'll watch for one at garage sales.