jointing on the tablesaw

[Loren Hedahl]

Shawn, of course you can edge joint with a table saw using the methods above. You can also edge joint with hand planes a router or a guided circular saw. A novel method is to run a circular saw down an imperfect joint of two boards butted together. This prepares both boards at the same time.

I have a neighbor woodworker who does a lot of glued-up panels and he gets great joints on his cabinet saw with a premium blade. Once he figured out how to do this he sold his jointer.

I use a Festool circular saw with guides for wavy edges on hardwood, then touch them up on a jointer. I also use the jointer for truing up the face sides even though this could be done with a lunch box planer and sled.

We each learn to work within the space we have available, the tools we have available and the finances we have available.

Over the past couple of years I have been disposing of large power tools to free up shop space. Along with this I have been learning new methods and have found this to be quite rewarding.

[Darius Ferlas]

A novel method is to run a circular saw down an imperfect joint of two boards butted together. This prepares both boards at the same time.

This is a pretty established method taken from linoleum floor installers. Of course they don't use circular saws

Another way to joint two boards at the same time is with the use of a router, as shown in the picture. You need to secure all elements with clamps etc.

[Ken Higginbotham]

Hi Ken

As Russ said....

Here is my "shop"....

Attachment 111962

Regards
niki

Hi niki,

Looks like tight conditions - I'm affraid mine isn't a whole lot better.

ken

[Prashun Patel]

Yeah, I've used this myself on smaller pieces. I like this bkz as long as you lay the pcs out bookmatched style, you don't even really need the saw blade to be perpendicular to the table.

[Tony Bilello]

For a surface ready for a glue joint, I just use my table saw in the normal manner. With a good saw and a good blade, you can get a good cut ready for glue up.

The jig in the original post is a Straight Line Rip Jig.
Below is a sketch of my Straight Line Rip Sled. I have 2 of them. One is 5 Foot and the other is 8 Foot long. It is fast and efficient. The crook in the board has been grossly exaggerated.[ATTACH]11197http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=1054014[/ATTACH]

Sorry about the link but SMC will not allow a photo that was once attached to be attached again.

[George Sanders]

When I buy rough white oak from the sawmill it isn't jointed. I use a pair of cheap jointer clamps with a board a little longer than the one I want to saw straight. One pass through the table saw, then another on the flip side without the clamps or guide board. This gets me into the ballpark for a pass or two on the real jointer. Sure save time.

[Chip Lindley]

For The Record, my car or truck has NEVER seen the inside of my garage! It is SHOP space! 24x24 is MY domain. The autos do not deserve a warm dry place, but my TOOLS do.

In threads like this, many ideas come from many personal experiences, to allow a poster with a problem or limitation to benefit from the knowledge of many!

All I can say is that since I began working in wood 30 years ago, I started small and grew in proficiency (and tools)! IF all a man has is a tablesaw, he WILL use it to its MAX potential. I surely did! A good glue line rip blade will give a straight edge IF the stock is guided in a straight line, by whatever jig or sled!

Straight is one thing!....A square 90 degree face is quite another. All depends on how flat the stock is! Getting stock flat is all together another issue and topic. Let us just suffice to say that jointers not only *joint* edges...jointers *flatten* stock also!

[Ken Higginbotham]

What's a 'glue line rip blade'?

Edit: Never mind I was able to google it - Hum, I may have to invest in one...

[Jules Dominguez]

"GlueLine Rip" is the model name Freud gives to its superduper smooth-cutting rip blade. The name implies the abliity to go directly from the tablesaw to glue-up. It does cut very smoothly but tends to leave burn marks on cherry. (Cherry burns very easily.) I posted on that subject some time ago. It is a good blade, but not of course the only smooth-cutting rip blade.

[george wilson]

I don't recommend sawed edges for serious glue line results. A properly jointed edge is bound to fit the other edge better,and be free of fuzz,slight wavyness,etc.,to result in a tighter glue up.

Garage space is much too valuable to waste parking cars in !!!!

[Darius Ferlas]

"GlueLine Rip" is the model name Freud gives to its superduper smooth-cutting rip blade. The name implies the abliity to go directly from the tablesaw to glue-up. It does cut very smoothly but tends to leave burn marks on cherry. (Cherry burns very easily.)

Jules, a question:

IF the cut is smooth then how important are the burn marks? Won't they be hidden when you do the glue-up?

[Norman Hitt]

Jules, a question:

IF the cut is smooth then how important are the burn marks? Won't they be hidden when you do the glue-up?

Burn marks don't accept glue as well.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

2) An auxiliary fence that the blade gets buried in like this?
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/

Been using one of those since last Summer.
Quick and easy to make. Works especially well with MDF and plywood.

[Tim Anderson]

I had several trees milled and used the "Joint r Clamp" to joint an edge on the rough stock. Works well on long stock.