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Thread: Miter Saw Bench Progress and Pics

  1. #1
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    Miter Saw Bench Progress and Pics

    This weekend I was able to make some progress on the next leg of my shop work - my miter saw workbench/storage. My tools need to fit into the 3rd bay of our garage, where I would like them to be largely useable without having to roll them around for smaller projects. For larger projects, I can move a car or two outside and roll the equipment around accordingly.

    I wanted the bench to hold the miter saw, and drill press, and store the mortiser and planer. At the time I drew up the initial plans in Solidworks, I wasn't exactly sure how I wanted to run the DC ductwork... If I had thought that all the way through, I might have changed the design slightly.

    Once I figured out how I wanted the duct to run, I determined that I would be best served by rotating the motor/fan on the base of the DC to get the duct coming from the other side.. the added benefit is that the switch is moved, though eventually I'll get a remote for it, so that's less of a worry.

    I also made a design error when I was measuring things up.. I wanted as large a benchtop as I could fit...and at the time I was measuring things out, the space was rather crowded with car parts on the floor... so I neglected to account for the fact that the locking/lifting rollers on the router still well out beyond the table itself (which was what I measured). Oops. I'll probably just move the locking feet to the rear of the router for now, so I can roll it in and out of that end space.

    I still have to add the laminate to the top of the workbench, and I may make it 2x thick so I can add some T-slots to it... It was a bit of a tradeoff there, though, as I needed a minimum height to fit the drill press into the cabinet (if I swap the drillpress and mortiser) and I wanted the bench at the same height as the tablesaw in case I wanted additional support for large pieces of sheet wood... if I add a second layer, it will be too tall...hmmm.. I also need to make the drawers and doors, which I'm going to use the old oak I got from the old train transfer station in Fitchburg (have you used any of yours Don?!).

    After this bench is done, the 'last' major project in the workshop will be the primary assembly workbench which will double as the table saw outfeed table... It will be smaller than what I would have liked, but I need to make it fit the space, so I'm not overly disappointed.

    I do have a few questions:

    - How do you guys have blast gates/flexible ducting connected to the 4" S&D PVC Pipe?
    - How have you fitted dust collection to / around your CMS's? Do you block off the rear port so that you can push the saw closer to the wall?
    - For those that have ductwork on the floor, what have you done to not make it a trip hazard? This is for where the duct will go to the table saw..it will originate in the drop that is beneath the miter saw and run to the TS...

    Comments and feedback on the design and construction (or workshop) welcome!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Chris Bruno; 03-05-2009 at 12:23 AM.

  2. #2
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    More pictures showing the router table fit error and the jointer wall...
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  3. #3
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    The only time the router table would be in that slot is when it's not being used, plus typically movement on a router table would be along the fence - so what about rotating your mobile base so the "pedals" are to the front?

    That way, the table will fit in its storage space AND when you're pushing stock thru the router the two non-lift wheels will have SIDE pressure on them, causing less tendency to move during the cut.

    Nice project, BTW... Steve

  4. #4
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    Hi Steve,

    That actually would be my preferred setup, except that the little feet on the lifting casters poke up higher than the bottoms of the drawers... :-(

    Its not quite a big a deal, though, because the dust collection tubing on the back of the router cabinet prevents me from tucking it in tight to the wall anyways...

    -Chris

  5. #5
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    Oops, didn't catch that little glitch :=)

    If you DO become desperate (and have access to a welder) here's another idea

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...31+Mobile+Base

    Scroll down to post # 13 for the handle - you would replace both lifting casters with Rod's setup, leaving the leveling feet as they are... Steve

  6. #6
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    Chris, your bench is looking great. That's one of the first projects I'll need to do when I finally get to move into my new shop. Pictures like yours are very helpful as I plan what I need to make. I'm looking forward to seeing the final product.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Bruno View Post
    ...
    I also made a design error when I was measuring things up.. I wanted as large a benchtop as I could fit...and at the time I was measuring things out, the space was rather crowded with car parts on the floor... so I neglected to account for the fact that the locking/lifting rollers on the router still well out beyond the table itself (which was what I measured). Oops. I'll probably just move the locking feet to the rear of the router for now, so I can roll it in and out of that end space.

    ...
    It looks to me that the router will table fit in the spot sideways. If it does, leave the base on as it is and push the side of the table with the non-locking casters against the wall. Sure it will stick out some, but it will be a lot easier to use that way and you'll be able to lock the table in place when it's stored.
    Last edited by Don Bullock; 03-05-2009 at 10:25 AM.
    Don Bullock
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    The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.
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  7. #7
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    Nice job. Looks like your making the most of your space.

    don't feel bad about the router table mix up. I for one o that kind of thing all the tme. Its very aggravating.

  8. #8
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    Hi Chris,

    That bench looks great, as does the rest of the shop - from what I can see. Is that an epoxy floor? Every time I think about doing that, I decide that I don't want to suffer the down-time, but seeing yours sure makes me envious!

    The router table miscalculation is a bummer (and one I can definitely empathize with); sounds like your plan of moving the foot levers to the back will get you by.

    As for the duct-work out to the table saw, you don't mention the shop layout. Would it be possible to put arrange the table saw such that the outfeed is towards the CMS, with the outfeed table/workbench in between? This would minimize the amount of ductwork that is uncovered. Of course, this idea doesn't take into account any of the rest of the flow of you shop.

    Carl

  9. #9
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    Chris,
    Nice looking setup! Bummer about the router table issue, but stuff happens! I see you have the Dewalt 735 plotter located on the bottom shelf, just curious how you are planning on incorporating it in the overall design...I am currently laying out a miter station also and am toying with the idea of putting it on a slide out shelf using the over travel full extension slides.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Babel View Post
    As for the duct-work out to the table saw, you don't mention the shop layout. Would it be possible to put arrange the table saw such that the outfeed is towards the CMS, with the outfeed table/workbench in between? This would minimize the amount of ductwork that is uncovered. Of course, this idea doesn't take into account any of the rest of the flow of you shop.
    Carl
    That hadn't been my original plan, but I will think about it and see if it gives me any advantages.. Right now, I was thinking of keeping my workflow going towards the garage door... that way, if I need to cut something 8' I could setup the saw to open the door if necessary. I would like to setup a small stand in between the table saw and future work bench that will hold the planer and let me use the T/S and work bench as infeed/outfeed for the planer, again, keeping the workflow in the direction of the garage door...

    Tonight the countertops should be able to go on (the laminate has been drying for a couple of days), so I'll start to get a better feel of how things look and whether or not the layout is achieving what I was hoping for... I'll be sure to post more pictures!

    -Chris

  11. #11
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    I'm planning on at least installing it on a slide out shelf, but right now I think I'll need to take it off the shelf to use it...

    Another idea I've been toying with is to install it on a stand in between the table saw and the work bench.. From there I could use a variety of different mechanisms to raise it/flip it, etc, such that the t/s and work bench could be utilized as infeed/outfeed support... It does make for about 20" or so less space between the garage door and the workbench, but that may be OK if I can still tuck the router table in the corner tight enough...

    I'd like to be able to still park the snowblower in that area over the winter, and my motorcycle there during the summer, so I'm trying to keep enough space between the future workbench and the garage door....

    -Chris

  12. #12
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    Jan 2009
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    Florida west coast
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    "- How do you guys have blast gates/flexible ducting connected to the 4" S&D PVC Pipe?
    - How have you fitted dust collection to / around your CMS's? Do you block off the rear port so that you can push the saw closer to the wall?
    - For those that have ductwork on the floor, what have you done to not make it a trip hazard? This is for where the duct will go to the table saw..it will originate in the drop that is beneath the miter saw and run to the TS... "

    Here's my experience:
    PVC connects to hose via most any DC fitting -- as those fittings' OD's are slightly smaller than the hose & PVC ID's. I've almost always gone PVC-blast gate-hose
    For your CMS, remove the bag and connect a hose to the DC. The closest fit is from swimming pool cleaner hose. Next, build a box around the CMS to catch the chips that spray to the sides. Vacuum out as needed
    For the table saw, I sawed a trench in the concrete floor, installed 4" PCV, and poured concrete over it. VERY dusty doing this, of course.

  13. #13
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    Dec 2003
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    SF Bay Area, CA
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    That shop is way too clean!

    I think you should be using 5"+ duct pipe...4" is quite restrictive.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

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