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Thread: new way to shear cut?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,888
    Curtis, it's important that you are "Cutting" to avoid the "dust" problem with any wood, including very hard species like locust. That means rubbing the bevel, even in a shearing cut like I originally mention. Wally also talks about this in one of his posts above, too.

    This is one of the things I inherently have against the term "scraping" because that activity, if done correctly, is actually cutting. A properly prepared and used "scraper" will also provide nice, fine, curly shavings. If one is getting "dust", something is not right, either with the tool or the technique.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Paradise PA
    Posts
    3,098
    i got shavings when doing face grain, but end grain only make shaving with a parting tool that was angled to "rub the bevel" i will try again and see if i get better results once i get a grinder and can sharpen my tools.
    14x48 custom 2hp 9gear lathe
    9 inch pre 1940 craftsman lathe
    36 inch 1914 Sydney bandsaw (BEAST)
    Wood in every shelf and nook and cranny,,, seriously too much wood!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    HARVEY, MI. NEXT TO STEVE SCHLUMPF
    Posts
    1,735

    Indeed!

    Quote Originally Posted by curtis rosche View Post
    what do you want pictures of, the lathe of the locust?
    Yes Curtis, pictures of the lathe and the wood
    Bob
    Bob Hainstock

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Green Valley, Az.
    Posts
    1,202
    Dewey, you're right, turning at 1600 is too fast for a beginner. In my classes for beginning bowl turning I have students start at 1200. The wood we use is soft maple, 6 to 7 in. in dia. and 3 in. thick, so it works easily. Before the students start turning I demo a few things. Tool and hand position, rubbing the bevel with a gouge, cutting with the grain vs. against the grain, and cutting at various speeds.

    I've been teaching for a lot of years and I've found that students have better tool control, better cutting, with better results at 1200 than at lower speeds. If they've never turned at slower speeds, 1200 seems comfortable for them.

    I suggest that you mount a small blank, 4 or 5 inches and try cutting at various speeds. In a very short time you'll find that as you ramp it up cutting does become easier and the results are better. You won't be forcing the tool. It should feel as though it's just floating through the cut.

    Wally

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Madison WI
    Posts
    106
    So after reading this thread, and watching the videos (thanks!!) - i was doing alot of practicing today. my question is why on certain areas would my gouge bounce? It seemed that certain areas the cut was smooth, but certain areas my gouge would bounce or chatter alot?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Stanwood, WA
    Posts
    3,059
    Yep I just roughed my first set of bowls today ans noticed the same thing. What the heck, I just pressed on with it.
    Dewey

    "Everything is better with Inlay or Marquetry!"


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