you've got mail Dan as well...
you've got mail Dan as well...
The more research I do and the more input I get the better off the final product will be
Thats a real good point about having the end of the spindle come out far enough to work the back side of the piece. Makes me reconsider using the pillow block bearings instead of the flange bearings. I would have a lot more clearance in doing so. I'm glad I haven't bought the bearings yet. Its a good reason to go with the larger dia spindle as well.
Thanks for all the input. I'm in the final design stages now and soon to buy some parts.
I can't wait to see what you come up with!
I lifted this photo of a concrete lathe from somewhere on the net. I'm ashamed to say I don't remember where. It looks like he uses a jack shaft mounted on a frame or some bolts cast in the base. I thought it would be cool to make an outdoor version for really big blanks. Cast it right down below the frost line. God luck with yours!
David Ellsworth has a Jim Thompson lathe in his studio that, if I am recalling correctly, has a lot of concrete in it. But it's been many years since I visited...
Equestrian Sports. The most fun you can have with your boots still on...
That hurts my back to look at that picture. Whatever the final design, make sure your spindle height is at least to your elbows.
I never considered access to the bottom of a bowl, after it has been reversed to be any kind of an issue. Mine is finished when I reverse it. If you are trying to turn bowls down to less than 1/8 inch thick, then what little run out you get isn't enough to matter, and you can reduce that run out to almost nothing with good tool tecnique. More mass in the head stock means less vibration. The less the headstock spindle sticks out from the headstock, the less vibration there is. When your spindle is out 6 inches, you will get some induced vibration when you apply any tool, or even without tool contact, because the wood is on a longer lever arm.
if you want to considered access to the bottom of a bowl you could incorporate a tool rest into the head stock
just an idea...
Where my design is going is unheard of.
I feel as if I'm charting undiscovered territory here.
Ive been workin on the design tonight. The mechanics are pretty well determined at this point. Developing the mold fabrication design now...I'll be posting on the progress for sure.
Lot of help here...you all are makin me think..Thats a good thing
I'm not sure how much I want to share on a public forum.. but I'll keep ya all posted..
Comon'! Don't leave us hangin' too long.
Seems to me if you could find a deal like this http://detroit.craigslist.org/tls/1074772551.html nearby you could scavenge many of the parts you needed for extremely cheap.
Last edited by John Fricke; 03-14-2009 at 4:45 PM. Reason: add pic
If it ain't broke...fix it anyways...that's why you told your wife you needed all those tools.
My gramps' fav.....If you don't stop, you won't be stuck.
Oh......and most importantly........I am 362 miles mostly south and a little east of Steve Schlumpf.Support the Creekfor only .0164 cents / day
Mark, You have to make it sleek and purty! The latest and greatest design with all the curves and stuff........OOP's my mind is wandering!!!! Just purty is good!!
Hurry we can't wait!!
To turn or not to turn that is the question: ........Of course the answer is...........TURN ,TURN,TURN!!!!
Anyone "Fool" can know, The important thing is to Understand................Albert Einstein
To follow blindly, is to never become a leader............................................ .....Unknown
Commited myself to a 1-3/4 spindle with 1-1/4 x 8 tpi. The bearings ran me $130.00 and a faceplate I just ordered ran me $25. (I had to order a 1/2" bowl gouge and scraper while I was at it for another $80.00.)
I plan on going with a 2 hp Baldor 3 phase TEFC motor and a VFD to match, both for about $500...
Lets talk budget...
ok so I have $500 for the motor and vfd, $130 in bearings, $200 for the spindle $25 for the faceplate, and $150 for pulley and sheath. $100 in formwork, $100 in hardware..I have re-bar...$100 in concrete..
If I can pull it off with some style, I'll have me one decent machine for under $1400.00...
Whadda ya think?
Last edited by Mark Norman; 03-24-2009 at 2:06 AM.