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Thread: Making plans to build a concrete bowl lathe - opinions welcome.

  1. #31
    you've got mail Dan as well...

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Gods country: Mariposa CA
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    839

    Thanks Travis

    The more research I do and the more input I get the better off the final product will be

    Kim,
    Thats a real good point about having the end of the spindle come out far enough to work the back side of the piece. Makes me reconsider using the pillow block bearings instead of the flange bearings. I would have a lot more clearance in doing so. I'm glad I haven't bought the bearings yet. Its a good reason to go with the larger dia spindle as well.

    Thanks for all the input. I'm in the final design stages now and soon to buy some parts.

  3. #33
    I can't wait to see what you come up with!

  4. #34

    concrete lathe

    I lifted this photo of a concrete lathe from somewhere on the net. I'm ashamed to say I don't remember where. It looks like he uses a jack shaft mounted on a frame or some bolts cast in the base. I thought it would be cool to make an outdoor version for really big blanks. Cast it right down below the frost line. God luck with yours!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    TB

  5. #35
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    David Ellsworth has a Jim Thompson lathe in his studio that, if I am recalling correctly, has a lot of concrete in it. But it's been many years since I visited...
    “Never raise your hands to your children, it leaves your groin unprotected.” - Red Buttons

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  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Holly Springs NC
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    That hurts my back to look at that picture. Whatever the final design, make sure your spindle height is at least to your elbows.

  7. #37
    I never considered access to the bottom of a bowl, after it has been reversed to be any kind of an issue. Mine is finished when I reverse it. If you are trying to turn bowls down to less than 1/8 inch thick, then what little run out you get isn't enough to matter, and you can reduce that run out to almost nothing with good tool tecnique. More mass in the head stock means less vibration. The less the headstock spindle sticks out from the headstock, the less vibration there is. When your spindle is out 6 inches, you will get some induced vibration when you apply any tool, or even without tool contact, because the wood is on a longer lever arm.
    robo hippy

  8. #38
    if you want to considered access to the bottom of a bowl you could incorporate a tool rest into the head stock

    just an idea...

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    You guys have no idea..

    Where my design is going is unheard of.

    I feel as if I'm charting undiscovered territory here.

    Ive been workin on the design tonight. The mechanics are pretty well determined at this point. Developing the mold fabrication design now...I'll be posting on the progress for sure.

    Lot of help here...you all are makin me think..Thats a good thing

    I'm not sure how much I want to share on a public forum.. but I'll keep ya all posted..

  10. #40
    Comon'! Don't leave us hangin' too long.
    TB

  11. #41

    scavenging parts

    Seems to me if you could find a deal like this http://detroit.craigslist.org/tls/1074772551.html nearby you could scavenge many of the parts you needed for extremely cheap.


    Last edited by John Fricke; 03-14-2009 at 5:45 PM. Reason: add pic
    If it ain't broke...fix it anyways...that's why you told your wife you needed all those tools.

    My gramps' fav.....If you don't stop, you won't be stuck.

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  12. #42
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    Oct 2008
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    Make it purty!

    Mark, You have to make it sleek and purty! The latest and greatest design with all the curves and stuff........OOP's my mind is wandering!!!! Just purty is good!!

    Hurry we can't wait!!

    Jeff
    To turn or not to turn that is the question: ........Of course the answer is...........TURN ,TURN,TURN!!!!
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  13. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Nicol View Post
    Mark, You have to make it sleek and purty! The latest and greatest design with all the curves and stuff........OOP's my mind is wandering!!!! Just purty is good!!

    Hurry we can't wait!!

    Jeff
    Funny you should say that Jeff. I'm thinking the same thing. Curves are much more appealing
    Here is an end view I sketched up yesterday...



    I can't hurry this, I need to scrounge up a few bucks for the parts I need. Gonna be close to a grand when all is said and done.

  14. #44
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    Feb 2009
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    Bought the bearings for the headstock today

    Commited myself to a 1-3/4 spindle with 1-1/4 x 8 tpi. The bearings ran me $130.00 and a faceplate I just ordered ran me $25. (I had to order a 1/2" bowl gouge and scraper while I was at it for another $80.00.)

    I plan on going with a 2 hp Baldor 3 phase TEFC motor and a VFD to match, both for about $500...

    Lets talk budget...

    ok so I have $500 for the motor and vfd, $130 in bearings, $200 for the spindle $25 for the faceplate, and $150 for pulley and sheath. $100 in formwork, $100 in hardware..I have re-bar...$100 in concrete..

    If I can pull it off with some style, I'll have me one decent machine for under $1400.00...

    Whadda ya think?
    Last edited by Mark Norman; 03-24-2009 at 3:06 AM.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Dallas TX
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    48
    Wow!!

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