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Thread: Cyclone Motor Issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Louisville,KY
    Posts
    58

    Cyclone Motor Issue

    Sigh...I am in the final stages of building my Bill Pentz cyclone. I purchased a airfoil blower from a great guy on this forum, and a deal on a new 5hp Leeson motor off of eBay or Craigslist (don't remember).

    So, I go to put them together, and the arbor on the motor must have shrunk. So, I have a 5/8" motor arbor and a 7/8" "goesinto" on the blower.

    Anyone have an idea on how to resolve this?

    I have looked on McMaster at this item , but concerned about the length. ( Part 3256K12 at McMaster. The link doesn't work for some reason).

    Getting a new motor isn't really a financial option ( unless someone wants to pony up $200 for this one ) .
    Last edited by Larry Richardson; 03-10-2009 at 12:07 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mid Michigan
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    3,559
    Don't know if it will take the torque but a bushing may work for you. Haven't searched for them in years but worth a look.
    Couldn't get to the item you posted.
    Addition:
    I would not use the McMaster part, I would go the way that Bob W. suggested if you want a safe and strong setup.
    Last edited by David G Baker; 03-10-2009 at 2:29 PM.
    David B

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    S.E. Tennessee ... just a bit North of Chattanooga
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    You might be better off having a machine shop rebore the impeller to accept a taper lock bushing like the ClearVue uses. It's a far superior method as opposed to a simple key & set screw. Once the hub is welded into the impeller, you can get any number of bushings to match different motor shafts.


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  4. #4
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    Jan 2006
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    You will have to check the torque ratings but how about a spider coupling - like Lovejoy?

    Mike

  5. #5
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    S.E. Tennessee ... just a bit North of Chattanooga
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    A Lovejoy type coupling is just that .. a COUPLER .. this thing needs to be securely mounted directly on the motor shaft.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Pickering Ontario Canada
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    Larry, I hate to say it but what leeson part number do you have? 5/8" shafts are 56 frame size and seldom exceed 1 1/2 hp for 4pole and occasionally 2hp for 2pole (3600 rpm) motors.
    There is no way you have a 5hp motor. Maybe 5HP compressor rated but not a true industrial 5 horse. This could be reall problematic if you are using a undersized motor.
    As far as adapting for can use a weldon hub with taperlock bushing, transtorque bushing or a ringfedder type bushing...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Pickering Ontario Canada
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    211
    Larry, I hate to say it but what leeson part number do you have? 5/8" shafts are 56 frame size and seldom exceed 1 1/2 hp for 4pole and occasionally 2hp for 2pole (3600 rpm) motors.
    There is no way you have a 5hp motor. Maybe 5HP compressor rated but not a true industrial 5 horse. This could be reall problematic if you are using a undersized motor.
    As far as adapting you can use a weldon hub with taperlock bushing, transtorque bushing or a ringfedder type bushing...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Wichita, Kansas
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    1,795
    You must have gotten a motor with a 56 frame. The impeller has a taper lock bushings like Bob Wingard recommends, but it was sized for a 145 frame which was what the impeller was originally used on. At least the "C" face mount bolt circle is the same for both frame sizes so the housing should match.

    You're right to be concerned about the added length of the McMaster part. It would accentuate any imbalance in the impeller and put additional dynamic loading on the motor bearings. Although as I remember, the impeller was very well balanced so that might be a non-issue. The added length would require a spacer between the housing and the motor to position the impeller properly within the housing - that's assuming you want to use the supplied housing.

    You'll want to be very careful about using a bushing on the motor shaft since the impeller hangs off the shaft and you certainly do not want the impeller to shift position in operation. You'll also want to be very careful that whatever method is used to get from the 5/8" shaft to the existing 7/8" bushing is concentric to a high precision. Any deviation will adversely affect the balance of the impeller.

    An ideal solution would be a tapered bushing identical to the one you have except with an ID to match the 56 frame shaft (5/8" dia.). A local machine shop might be able to make one for you but I have no idea what the bill would be, nor do I know if there are any standard ones commercially available with the proper ID. It's hard to say, since there's no explicit information shown about the outside diameters other than the taper, but it may be something like one of these:
    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3X572

    You may be in luck. A quick check of dimensions in the MSC online catalog implies that the hubs for a given bushing series are all identical. If that's the case, the only differences between members of the "H" series bushings would be the bore diameter and one for a 7/8" shaft would fit the same hub as one for a 5/8" shaft. Of course, I'm assuming that what you have is an "H" series bushing. A few measurements on the bushing compared to the listings in an industrial catalog, Grainger, MSC, McMaster-Carr, etc. should identify the series for you.

    For reference: The motor the impeller was originally used on was a Leeson, Catalog # 120554, Model # P145K34DB1C, Frame 145TC

    Also, that impeller is sized to consume 2HP, so a 5HP motor is really overkill. If the motor you have is 2HP or greater, you should be OK, but you should check to be sure that the motor isn't drawing more than the FLA shown on the dataplate when it's set up with ductwork in place and at least one blast gate is open.
    Last edited by Tom Veatch; 03-10-2009 at 6:46 PM. Reason: Added motor reference numbers and bushing/hub conjecture
    Tom Veatch
    Wichita, KS
    USA

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Louisville,KY
    Posts
    58
    Thanks Tom and everyone. Tom is where I got the impeller and housing.

    My motor is the same # as this one , except I have an OEM version .

    I was able to find a machinist locally that says about $40-50 to make it so. He has the motor and the impeller, and I should have it by the weekend.

    The motor should be plenty big enough for my 1 car garage shop.

    Boy, if I had it do do over, I would definitely go with a ClearVue, but I had some fun with making the Cyclone. Ok, so fun is relative..

    I was 85% done with my kitchen remodel when my garage/shop caught fire, and I am just now getting it completed.


    Thanks for all the information guys

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    53
    Hi Larry good to hear that you sorted out your issue with the motor/Impeller, have you got any pics of your cyclone to show us.
    Regards,
    Al

    You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it. http://www.woodworkforums.com/images...d/rolleyes.gif

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