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Thread: What's the best flooring to put over gravel?

  1. #1

    What's the best flooring to put over gravel?

    I have an attached carport that I'd like to add to my shop space for my computer/office space. Currently, it's open with gravel on dirt. The shop is concrete, and I'm trying to find the most economical DIY solutions to get a floor covering for the carport to add it as functional shop space. Poured concrete would be ideal, but I don't know how I'd do with b/c the structure is already in place, and it's a huge area to cover by myself w/out paying for a cement truck, which is probably out of my budget (any idea how much for 3-4" deep in 250sf?). The top contender right now is a vapor barrier, PT 2x4's in a decking-type frame, and plywood on top (maybe with laminate over that). Any advice?
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    Anyone visiting my shop will see a whole wall of wood clamps. When they ask my wife, "why in the world does he buy so many clamps?'" She replies, "It's his only vice".

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Goulet View Post
    The top contender right now is a vapor barrier, PT 2x4's in a decking-type frame, and plywood on top (maybe with laminate over that). Any advice?
    Yeah, I'd say that's your only option. Pour some footings of course.

    ps

  3. #3
    The local rental yards have concrete trailers that can handle 1 yard at a time, although a mixer trailer is the better choice because all the fines will be on the bottom of the form because of settling during transit, if that is avail. you could form it to do 1 yard at a time but the rental yards also want a 3/4 ton truck as a minimum to tow the mixer trailer & if one does not own one it presents a problem.

  4. #4
    Brian, it will take 3 1/4 yards to pour 250 sq/ft at 4" deep (actually 3.08!), but if your depth varies to 3" like you said, then order 3 yards. You can probably have 3 yards delivered for nearly what you can fool with getting a yard at a time, and not have "cold joints" to fool with.

    However, make sure you have all the tools and additional manpower to work the concrete.

    Were it me, I would do some work to make sure you do not have any wood going down in the new pour (get the supports for the existing structure on block, etc.), then form it and pour it. I would guess in this area, that a 3 yd. load would run about $300 delivered. You will need some steel, as well, and will want to drill into the existing slab for some rebar to tie them together so they remain level as much as possible.

    It will take you 6 sheets of ply to cover that area, plus the framing lumber, nails, etc. My guess is that the concrete may be nearly as cheap when you consider time and trouble - and trying to support the new framed floor around the edges.

    Just my thought.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by John Keeton View Post
    Brian, it will take 3 1/4 yards to pour 250 sq/ft at 4" deep (actually 3.08!), but if your depth varies to 3" like you said, then order 3 yards. You can probably have 3 yards delivered for nearly what you can fool with getting a yard at a time, and not have "cold joints" to fool with.

    However, make sure you have all the tools and additional manpower to work the concrete.

    Were it me, I would do some work to make sure you do not have any wood going down in the new pour (get the supports for the existing structure on block, etc.), then form it and pour it. I would guess in this area, that a 3 yd. load would run about $300 delivered. You will need some steel, as well, and will want to drill into the existing slab for some rebar to tie them together so they remain level as much as possible.

    It will take you 6 sheets of ply to cover that area, plus the framing lumber, nails, etc. My guess is that the concrete may be nearly as cheap when you consider time and trouble - and trying to support the new framed floor around the edges.

    Just my thought.
    Concrete would probably be most ideal, especially since it would match the rest of my shop, but I don't know how I would work it since the supports and walls and everything are already in place for the carport. How would I pour the concrete and spread it? Would I have to take off all the siding and strip the carport down to bare studs to be able to level the poured concrete? I just don't have that much experience pouring concrete....I'm a wood guy!!
    Anyone visiting my shop will see a whole wall of wood clamps. When they ask my wife, "why in the world does he buy so many clamps?'" She replies, "It's his only vice".

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
    Posts
    2,360
    I think you answered your own question in your post. Pressure treated joists on a compacted base, with treated plywood decking would make an ideal floor on top of gravel. Concrete is a bear to work with. When I poured my shop slab the concrete worked me; I did'nt work it.

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