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Thread: Dovetail design question

  1. #1
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    Dovetail design question

    I'm building a complete bedroom suite out of solid cherry (dressers, night stands, etc). In terms of the carcasses I'm going to be joining the sides to the top/bottom using through dovetails and have a question about tail/pin orientation. I desire the tails on the sides (strictly aesthetics - because I'm going to leave them exposed) and was wondering if this was OK to do - structurally speaking. With a carcass (sitting on the floor) does it really matter which has the pins and which has the tails? In my case the pins will be covered by a top and won't be seen. Thanks for any advice you can provide.
    With skill and tool we put our trust and when that won't do then power we must.

  2. #2
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    If I'm not mistaken, for this carcass technique, the tails are on the sides and the pins are on the top. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong) For designs that expose the dovetails on the top, this makes for straight exposures and a floating edge molding would typically be applied to hide the tails on the sides while at the same time, providing the overhang for the top. For a carcass using a "false top", it probably doesn't matter which way they are oriented, per se.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Jim,

    You are correct.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys. That is good news.
    With skill and tool we put our trust and when that won't do then power we must.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry nazard View Post
    Jim,

    You are correct.
    Kewel...I have a problem with CRS disease sometimes... (Can't Remember, um....Stuff)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    ...I have a problem with CRS disease sometimes... (Can't Remember, um....Stuff)
    LOL !!! I must remember this one, Jim...


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    Al
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  7. #7
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    Here's the argument for a different approach:

    Dovetails are mechanical joints applying resistance to separation in one direction; forgetting glue for the moment, the tail, not the pin, is doing all the holding.

    In traditional carcase work, the tops and bottoms are usually half-blind dovetailed into the sides, that is, the tails are on the tops and bottoms, half-blind pins on the sides. Through dovetails are also sometimes seen (but perhaps not in the best work), as are occasionally two or three dovetailed slats for the bottom rather than a full width piece.

    With something meant to be carried with a load inside, like a tool chest or blanket chest, it can make sense to put the tails on the sides to keep the bottom from falling off, but in carcase construction you're more concerned keeping the sides where they belong because any pulling away would affect the fit and function of doors, drawers, etc.
    Last edited by Frank Drew; 03-16-2009 at 4:13 PM.

  8. #8
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    Yeah, I've been researching this since I asked the question and everything I've found has the tails on the tops and bottoms and the pins on the sides. I really wanted my tails on the sides (for show) but the more I think about it the more it makes structural sense to put them on the top/bottom. I guess I will go with the half-blind. Thanks for everyones input on this.
    With skill and tool we put our trust and when that won't do then power we must.

  9. #9
    As you've mentioned, the usual method is to put the tails on the top/bottom to keep the sides in place.

    Depending on the design you might consider following the lead of Chris Becksvoort and make the exposed dovetails a design element. On his "five drawer chest" he uses through dovetails covered up with trim held on with dovetail keys. The side trim is only glued at the front to allow for expansion. The whole top surface is then flushed up.



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