Anything else I need….

[Bruce Page]

to get started on learning how to hand cut dovetails?

This is the list that I’ve put together so far. Am I missing anything?

Blue Spruce Bench chisels
http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/c...ion&key=BCSET1

Rob Cosman’s Hand-Cut Dovetails, DVD
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1320

Rob Cosman’s Advanced Hand-Cut Dovetails, DVD
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1320

Rob Cosman’s Hand-Cut Dovetails: Shop Copy, Book
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1420

Lie-Nielsen Dovetail Saw & Leather Case
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=DS

Lee Valley Micro-Adjust marking gauge
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...55&cat=1,42936

Lee Valley 1:6 & 1:8 Dovetail Markers
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,42936,50298

Rob Cosman’s Fretsaw
http://www.robcosman.com/tools_fret.php


I know I could get by with lesser quality tools but I’m a “cry once” kind of guy.

Thanks for any wisdom y’all can offer.

[Wilbur Pan]

Am I missing anything?

Scrap wood and time to practice.

You've got a good list of tools there. It's not what I use, but there are many paths to the same end.

The only thing I would add is that a pair of skew chisels are nice if you are making half-blind dovetails, but not completely necessary.

[Rick Erickson]

I would substitute the following:

I would go with the Tite-Mark guage instead of the Lee Valley. It is more expensive but the quality is heads-and-tails above the LV. If you still want the Lee Valley I will sell you mine (only used a few times) foe 25% less than online.

I would go with Lie-Nielsen's dovetail marker (or Cosmans - available on his website). Watching Rob's videos you will see he prefers the 1:7 over everything else - I happen to agree. To me it is more visually appealing)

[John Keeton]

Bruce, I have the BS dovetail chisels and love them. I use another set of bench chisels for heavy chopping, but they will not get in the corners. If the BS bench chisels will clear the slope of the pin sockets on narrow pins, then they may be fine. Maybe Mark Singer can comment as he just received his set. I would get a fishtail chisel - I made a couple and they really come in handy. The BS look sweet!!

I would (and did!) buy the Cosman trilogy with the shop book - not much difference in price and the DVD on mastering the saw is very good and nearly a prerequisite to cutting dovetails in my limited experience.

Couple sets of dividers to mark off the dovetails if you want to use that method.

Marking knife of some sort - probably already have that.

One very important thing is missing from your list - a 5 gallon bucket of patience Not expensive, but absolutely required.

Just saw Rick's post and edited to say I agree on both counts. I have the LV gauge and while it is good, I believe the Tite-Mark to be of much better quality. If money is no object, then get the LN marker - again, I have the LV 1:8 and like it, but the LN would probably do better. Not real set on either side of that issue.

[Rick Erickson]

Good points John. I would say watch the DVDs and everything will be a lot clearer on what you need. I would start there.

[Eric Brown]

http://glen-drake.com/

Glen-Drake makes th Tite Mark gages but also has another way of making dovetails that involves kerf starters, feeler gages, and other tools. Get his video and watch. It is a fast accurate way to cut dovetails.

Eric

[David Keller NC]

"I would go with the Tite-Mark guage instead of the Lee Valley. It is more expensive but the quality is heads-and-tails above the LV."

I will echo this. The Glenn-Drake tool is very much worth the money. Presumably, hand-cut dovetails will be followed by hand-cut mortises, and you can buy really nice set of fixed mortise blades for the G-D tool that very much increases its versatility.

I very much like the Lee-Valley dovetail markers. They're inexpensive so I don't sweat dropping them on the floor, and my personal opinion is that each marker should only have one slope on them. Otherwise, there's a good possibility that confusion will occur and you'll wind up with 1:6 on one side of the tail and 1:8 on the other. It won't affect the strength of the joint, but it'll dang sure look funny.

Finally - the marking knife in hand-cut dovetails is critically important, at least if you want to cut the ultra-thin tails seen on high-end 18th century furniture. It has to be thin. Blues Spruce is my preference, but I think Dave Anderson of Chester makes similar ones, as does Czech edge tools. You can also sharpen a thin penknife to remove the double-sided bevel - I've seen that solution work very well.

[Rick Erickson]

I agree David. The knife is critical. This is usually where my mistakes come into play and I have a good one (Blue Spruce). Cosman is working on a knife (and a saw).

[Bruce Page]

Thanks guys, I’m glad I asked the question.

John, the BS dovetail chisels make more sense, particularly sense I already have a set of LV bench chisels. Do you know if anyone sells the trilogy as a set? (trying to save as much $ as I can)

I already have the BS marking knife, and several dividers from my machinist days.

I’ll go with the LN dovetail marker & Tite-Mark, I’ll probably save a few bucks on shipping if most of this comes from Lie-Nielsen. Maybe even get a free calendar next year..

[Bruce Page]

Is there any reason to get the 6pc BS Dovetail chisel set (.125 to .750) over the 4pc set? (.125 to .500)

I could get the 4pc set and a pair of .375 skew chisels and still get to sleep tonight.

[Mark Singer]

Is there any reason to get the 6pc BS Dovetail chisel set (.125 to .750) over the 4pc set? (.125 to .500)

I could get the 4pc set and a pair of .375 skew chisels and still get to sleep tonight.

Probably not! Just lay the chisel in the scribe line carefully. I don't use a fret saw, I chop them and that is the better way to start learning IMHO. The marker you can make. You may perfer a japanese saw? Try the LN first.

[Ben Rafael]

I agree with Mark. You may prefer a japanese saw. They are far less expensive too.
I cut the waste away on my bandsaw, it's quick; and clean up with chisels.

[John Keeton]

Bruce, on the dovetail chisels, I got the 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4. The 1/8 is very useful in cleaning out the pin sockets in narrow dovetails. When I do real narrow pins using 1:8, the bottom of the socket is just about 1/4" and that is where the 1/8 really helps. I use the 3/4 and 1/2, but not so much with the 1/4.

Personally, I don't know how one would trim the pin socket waste with a bandsaw as there is just over a kerf of opening, but I guess it may work. The fret saw works fine. On through dovetails, cutting the waste on the tail sockets could be done on a bandsaw. As Mark says, chopping that waste is a good way to learn, but the fret saw works quickly and to me is preferable.

I would get the fishtail set before I got skews - but, that is my personal preference. I have a skew chisel and don't use it on the dovetails, but I use the fishtails I made every time with halfblinds. They work, but I SURE WOULD LOVE to have the BS fishtails. I keep waiting for Mark to send me the one that got in his order by mistake

Here is a link to the "Dovetail Degree" set http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/AU01.htm

Can't speak to the saw - I have the Veritas and since I am new to this dovetail thing, I have never owned anything else.

[Bruce Page]

Thanks for the info John. Your link will save me $15, and with free shipping too!
I think I will get the .375 fishtail with the savings!

[Rick Erickson]

Bruce, the BS fishtails are very nice. I have two of them. Keep in mind though you don't need those until you start with the half-blind dovetails. You don't really need them at all but they sure are convenient and added bling!